Im.still chasing down my intermittent no crank situation, unfortunately it refuses to happen when im at home with tools and time! Its not a huge ordeal as i just leave ignition on, pop hood and touch starter wire.to battery! It happened again today, last time was about a month ago on my road trip. Anyhoo..... noticed today that when i turnedthe key to start not only did it have no effect, but everything else went off, never really paid attention to if.it did that before, is that a function.of.the switch to divert all available volts and amps.to starter circuit, or is it a clue that it could be my switch going wonky??

 

Actually.i guess i could.just go out and put car in drive and turn key to see what happens. I love when i answer my own questions!

 

At first blush I'd say bad ignition switch. Press firmly in the rear where the wires attach and try it again. If it works, order a new switch and zip tie the rear of the switch to the front post that extend horizontally out of the switch housing.

I've been running mine that way for two months. I know I should replace it, but that bad ignition switch saved me three thousand dollars. That's what the seller came down because it could not be started. I feel like it deserves to hang around a bit.

 

Starter switch just operates a relay, which in turn operates the solenoid on the starter (a bigger relay effectively) that closes the heavy duty contacts to give full battery power to the starter.

If you hear a small click in the engine bay when you turn the key to the crank position, then the switch is doing its job and investigations can move to the engine bay. If you arent getting a click then it could be the ignition switch or a failed relay or the neutral position switch on the shift lever. I would look at the relay first as its easier to get at on the top of the firewall. You can test if you see battery from the ignition switch and earth from the shift lever switch.

If you have stuff going on outside the start circuit when you try to crank it does smell like the ignition switch may be failing. Things like the relay and the neutral switch would have no impact on other things in the car.

 

Mine has a dodgy relay. Just a small click sometimes when I turn the key, I have a jump wire handy I can run from the battery charger + terminal to the solinoid(I install a trickle charger harness on all my vehicles). And away we go.
Must repair or replace the relay someday.

it doesn't play up often enough for me to be too concerned.

 

You can have my old one if you like Clarke. It was fine , I just decided to go with a modern one as a bit of proactive maintenance and being a LUMP I wasnt too concerned about a non original item in the engine bay. PM me if you want it.

 

try wiggling the shifter when this happens, could be a Neutral Safety Switch out of adjustment, or bad, assuming your car has one by the front right side of the shifter. The factory service manual has the adjustment procedure.

 

My car is a lump. But, I've had travails with engine crank at times.
fixes:
1. Replaced the tin can Jag starter relay with a generic four pin unit.


2. Several years later, an NOS ignition switch via David Boger. That fixed a lot of things!!


3. I added an extra wire from the solenoid. The end can be touched
to battery + and crank the engine. My "emergency" crank method.
Also useful in turning the engine and not starting it.


Carl

 

my 1965 S type has 2 start buttons from the factory, one on the dash and one in the engine bay. The latter works with the ignition switch on or off. The dash button only works with ignition switch in the On position. Both buttons crank and or start the engine. Very smart.

 

I have the same problem with mine.
Turn the key to the crank position and I may or may not hear a click.
I jump the brown wire on the relay to the crank terminal and it cranks.
Get back in car and it cranks and starts as if nothing was wrong.
I will be ordering a new relay from Welsh and use the ignition switch from the Series 3
I am lumping, since it feels a lot tighter than the one on this car.

 

Its a nice option to have. The little 1960 Morris I am renovating has the solenoid on the firewall and you can manually operate it via a rubber covered button on the bottom. Handy for bumping the engine over.

 

Two comments:


1. Old Ford V8's used a firewall mounted solenoid to crank.
Triggered by a slick button on the lower left of the dash.
It also had a cap over a button on the solenoid to cover the
piston. Press and the engine cranks.


2. Definitely. The David Boger sourced switch was so much tighter
than the one in m y car that caused me so much work and $'s.


Took the old one apart. Ugh, I'll not say more.


Carl

 

Carl, I think my S type has the Ford start system you describe, it also has a Ford tractor power steering system.

 

Like a few of the old school conveniences it's a shame these were ever done away with, the majority of early British makes (and their overseas derivatives as in your case) had these. In those days cars were designed for home tuning (whether actually at home or roadside!).

 

I recently purchased an owners manual to go with my workshop manual for the old Morris. Its funny reading all the real hands on things an owner was expected to be capable of. I guess its like a lot of things , we have become very insulated from the way things work, where our food comes from etc. My favourite one is "tech savvy" young people. Usually means they can use Facebook.

 

But true!!

 

Jose:


The hydraulic ram system? When I had two engine failures in my Toyota
FJ40, I needed a "station car". the 4x4served that purpose as well as fun and utility. Bright red with a white canvass top. It came with "skinny wheels and tires". Soon fixed with white spokers and lettered tires.


I found a nice little 64 Falcon Futura hard top. A Mustang under the skin!! Two flaws. Tired little 260 CI V8. Ran great, but oil thirsty. And a very leaky PS ram. Fixing the engine within my talents. The ram, not so sure. But, "spare" time directed to fixing the Land Cruiser.


Decades later, my neighbor acquired a big Ford 4x4 pickup. Same ram, same issue!!!


Tony:


Why the battery charger to crank a relay reluctant engine? Battery + is nearby. But, if it works, that is all that matters.


Jeep battery seems to be done for. Smart charger brought up the volts to crank nicely.


Carl

 

Carl, the above post was actually Clarke's (o1xjr).

He is just using the + terminal on the charger harness to run his lead, i.e. not from the charger itself. I also have a smart charger harness permanently mounted on my battery and intend rigging up a similar jump lead for emergency use - a slightly easier alternative to using the bulkhead terminals. Having said that, I recently fitted a new generic relay, so hopefully the emergency won't arise!

 

Ooops. But, two great gentlemen. So in USA "basketballese", no harm no foul. Not my sport. And, reinforced. Finals in progress. Two "accidental"
kicks to the crotch of an opposing player. YUK, no wonder I'm no fan
of that "sport"!!!


Some time ago, one of those generic relays came loose and was in contact with the hot EGR pipe in my lump. It burned a hole in the side.
Very interesting miniaturization.


Carl