This car is now proving a frustration. For the past six months it has been item fixed, then another two come up. Fixed my bonnet latch mechanism. What a cheap setup - a piece of bent metal is all there is keeping the outer sheath of the bonnet cable from pulling through so not activating the latch. A good tap with a hammer and drift set that one right.
Now to the handbrake. I fitted new pads when the rear suspension was out so I expected no problems. First problem was that I seemed to have to adjust the cable right up, when it should have been released out from the old setting. After adjustment, the right hand disc was gripped, but the left was not. Looked underneath and the arm for the actuator is striking the subframe. Additionally, the cable yoke when pulled up is touching the caliper brake line!. Nothing has been changed in these brake lines so I cannot figure out what is the problem, If I remember correctly, the hydraulic brake caliper is bolted to the diff housing, and the handbrake caliper to that - there is not room for adjustment so how is this caliper arm striking the subframe. And what is the correct run for the handbrake cable?

 

UMMMM

You have lost the sleeve thingy from the RH inner cable, as it has pulled through the caliper arm.

Then I reckon you have not wound the knurled adjusters prior to installation, and now the arms have moved too far.

So, the outer cable needs to be pulled out of the arm, and the sleeve thingy installed. Then that will be OK.

Then reach up, and turn knurled adjusters, possibly 10 or more turns, and that should reset the arms to a better angle of the dangle.

I thought you had the arm upside down, but Greg in France was on the Batphone, and went and raised his car on his hoist, and confirmed you are OK, just some adjustments and that sleeve should see you fine.

 

Further to Grant's points, and once you can properly located the handbrake cable outer in the arm, proceed as follows:
the large slot-headed screw that goes across the handbrake caliper has a split pin that locks the slotted head in position. Once the calipers are in place, the slot headed screw must be turned to get the pads as close to the discs as possible, slightly contacting is OK. This has the effect of winding in the actuating arms to which the cable is attached. Then the split pin must be inserted to lock the screw. Once done,insert the cable, the arms will be pointing forward, rather than angled, and the mechanism will not foul the brake pipes.

 

Well Grant, I thought you had it in one with your comment that the cable had pulled through, but on removing the cable that was not so. The cable was seated correctly, what you saw in the first picture was the rubber boot on the end of the cable that is remarkably still existent on this 46 year old car! I have decided to remove the rear suspension again.
I have others reasons for doing this -
1. Diff top bolts were not lock-wired and I am worried that the Loctite will not hold on the very course thread 2. I broke the diff breather and could not get the replacement nice and tight and sealed properly with the limited room. Have made all ready for removal this afternoon - not hard once it has been done before (and recently). Once out I will take Greg in France's instructions and get these calipers adjusted properly. Then I will test them with the cable while the rear end is off the car.

 

DAMN.

Beets boredom though, and good beer count work in progress.

I have Loctited many, including 3 of mine, and no issues, but we all have different levels of "peace of mind".

All in all, it is an easy removal, and to set those park brake as per Greg's scribe is soooooo easy out of the car.

 

When I put ny cradle back in I was still waiting on parts for the handbrake calipers so I fitted them with the IRS in situ later. Wasn't the smartest thing to do, but it can be done.
Rather than guess work I set the calipers by putting a piece of 2mm(with a cable tie attached) plastic between the rotors and the hand brake pads, adjusted the pads firm against the the plastic and followed the instructions in the manual. Once set, I pulled the plastic out with the cable ties. Never been in there since. That was 4 years ago.

I used plastic from the lid of a 10kg bucket. I am sorting boxes in the shed this week so will take a pic of the spacers when I come across them.

 

Sometimes you can be happy when you discover you have done a dumb thing. Like today when I removed the rear suspension and found the cause of my handbrake problem.
I had failed to engage one of the holes with the locating pin! Easily done, as the screw thread is in the hydraulic brake caliper - the pin just pushes into the holes of the handbrake assembly.
If the adjusting pivot screw is in too far, it is easy just to spread the caliper and miss the hole altogether, which is what I did on assembly.
The first picture shows the hole not lining up at all and visible - you would spot this, but the caliper can close a bit and hide the hole so missing the pin (second picture) in my case.
Both pivot screws were bent, so I will try to chase new ones or may have to straighten the old.

 

BUGGA.

You are NOT alone, been there with those fork bolts, should have consumed much more amber fluid, would have got them in 1st try.

Those pivots may be available from Doug at JagDaim in Melbourne, or like me, straighten them.,

Well found, and yes, simple blunder.

 

I have been making good progress lately towards having this car registered and on the road. Rear end is all back in with handbrake 100% now. I have been working through the electrics and nearly have all systems "go" - the windscreen washer is still one problem. The small rubber impeller had perished so much noise but no pump. I have ordered a cheap generic pump from ebay that should get me through the registration inspection.
The the bonnet needed repair. The captive nuts for the bonnet striker were are a known weak spot. I punched one out when refitting the bonnet. Both sides now welded up properly and bonnet is fitting nicely. Had to do some touch up paint work today. Polishing up the brightwork while waiting for the coats to dry. Using the old acrylic system - it gives the period "patina" look.

 

John,

Is this the washer Impeller kit you seek?? PM me if it is.