It's feeling like my power brake servo isn't power brakes anymore. I haven't checked to make sure there's vacuum to the servo yet, but I'll do that tonight. Part RTC1128 says it's a "check valve". My definition of check valve is that it allows flow in one direction, but not the other. I don't see that as the function of my RTC1128. It just seems to be a 90d angle plastic elbow. And it seems to be mounted on the top portion of my brake servo as versus the picture below, showing it on the bottom side. I can't imagine that makes any difference though. I do have a check valve mounted just below the vacuum connection at the intake manifold that's dedicated to the brake servo.

I also see a Cardone aftermarket brake servo, part number 53-5950 at just over $100. Anybody have any experience with it?

 

Some manufacturers have the chheck valve in that elbow, or fitting AT the booster, Jag do not, that i have found over the years.

The S2 cars in my fleet had a metal check valve under the Inlet manifold, near the oil filter (memory only on the actual location).

Also had that fitting in the boosters at the bottom, and that could have been for plumbing convenience, as, like you, I see noiw reason for 6, 12, 3, 9 o'clock orientation.

Never heard of that brand, as I had all mine rebuilt here by the local brake specialists.

$130 back in the day.

 

I can't recall ever having a problem with Cardone products after using them many times. If I have, it's the odd exception.

Another choice.....

I've had good service from Booster Dewey

Power Brake Booster Exchange | Providing Parts for Classic Cars

The check valve-vs-plastic elbow is just one of those catalog errors that comes along from time-to-time

Cheers
DD

 

I bought that same booster for my brake rebuild, but still about a year from having it on the road. I don't see any issues with it on inspection. I might add that I had to buy another master cylinder also, mine had water in it and I couldn't clean up the rust pits by honing. I originally bought a Cardone brand from Amazon, along with the booster, but they kept sending one for the earlier XJ6's with the remote reservoir-twice. I bought a new one from Rockauto.
Dave

 

I pulled out my handy MityVac and read 25lbs of vacuum at idle and 30 by reving the engine. So I know I don't have a vacuum issue. I also pulled the check valve under the intake manifold, cleaned it with brake cleaner and made sure it only passed air in one direction. I drove the car around the block without any vacuum to the servo and it was really hard to stop. Put the vacuum back on and it was much easier. So I'm confident that the servo works. Then put the car up on jack stands with the intent to bleed the brakes again. Saw a weeping out the rear passenger bleed nipple. So I know I got air in the system.

Sidebar - It's the highest I've ever put it up on jackstands. And I know at some point fairly soon I'm going to have to drop the rear end assembly. Anybody know exactly how high I have to go to have clearance for the assembly to be pulled out from under the car?

 

Never measured, sorry, but the pic should give you a rough idea






Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug - I'm REALLY not looking forward to the job. I'm trying to make a parts list of things I should replace while it's out and order them ahead of time. Daunting project.

 

I didn't face any problems with Cardone products after using them for many times.

 

[QUOTE=yachtmanbuttson;2124925.
Sidebar - It's the highest I've ever put it up on jackstands. And I know at some point fairly soon I'm going to have to drop the rear end assembly. Anybody know exactly how high I have to go to have clearance for the assembly to be pulled out from under the car?[/QUOTE]

Mine is sitting 44" from floor to top of wheel arch, both ends. I didn't pick that distance, that's just all I got with my jack stands. I had my Son and Daughter-in-law steady the hubs while I lowered with floor jack under the center and then rolled it out the rear on the jack. Removing the rear assembly is the ONLY way to do any work back there, in my opinion.
Dave

 

Dave - You definitely have the next more beefer and taller jackstands than I do. However I can cut up some 2by's and put them under the jackstands as you have. I just don't want to get crazy dangerous about it. And... your garage space is a whole lot bigger than mine. Nice to have all that room. That's not to say I can't get it done in my garage. I just have to plan the space (and the job) ahead of time. I'm reading all I can on the removal of the rear assembly and the rebuilding of it. Right now all I have is the handbrake job ahead of me. But if I have to remove it to do the handbrakes, then I might as well address all else while it's out. I'm building a spreadsheet of all parts necessary and where I can get them and pricing.

Bill

 

Don't skimp on the jack stand, Bill. The ones in the picture are 6-ton models for about $70/pr. at Autozone. I have lighter duty ones, but these have much more range and a bigger base. Stacking 2x4's or anything else that is not flat and pretty hard will make the car more unstable.
The rolling cart at the front of the car is something I built just for the rear subframe. I knew I couldn't work on it laying on the floor and putting it on my work table would mean that I wouldn't have room to actually work on it. I was able to disassemble/reassemble it on the cart and work on the pieces on the table. I am constantly rolling it around the car to get it out of the way, but at least I can.

A list of planned and actual parts is very helpful. You can order the parts that you absolutely know will be replaced, but I would organize the work sequence a bit so that too many loose parts are not laying around. I would rebuild one side at a time so that if I misplaced a part or didn't keep track of how it came apart, I could look the un-disassembled side to figure it out. Label and separate everything! Don't rely on your memory, you WILL forget where this or that bolt came from if the job takes more that a day.

Getting the assembly ready to drop took me about an hour, but my car was a "glider" and didn't have the propeller shaft hooked up. Unhook the brake flex hose at the car frame, not the assembly sub-frame-easier in my opinion. You should have help when lowering/raising the sub-frame, it's very wobbly on a floor jack, but doable.

Good luck and stay brave, take pictures before and after.
Dave

 

Dave - wise, experienced, sage advice that I WILL follow. When I get to the point of doing the job, I will document it and take any ongoing advice. Thank you.