Rear Brake Bleeding Question and Tip
The manual tells me to start the car, place it in neutral depress the brake pedal and loosen the bleeder valve. Repeat until pedal is firm. Hmm, with the location of the rear bleeder, couldn't I just turn the key to the on position, attach my vacuum pump, open the bleeder and draw out the air and old fluid?
Here's how I got the clearance to bleed the rear.


I was able to gently raise the muffler so the crossover pipe move above the bleeder.
Here's how I got the clearance to bleed the rear.


I was able to gently raise the muffler so the crossover pipe move above the bleeder.
I'm not sure the reason for starting the engine, shouldn't need to. The old "press, hold, release" with a helper is the best way to do it, in my opinion. Using a vacuum bleeder has the nasty habit of sucking air past the threads of the bleeder valve which show as bubbles in the fluid. Slip a piece of 1/4" ID rubber tubing over the end of the bleeder and let it hang down into a container, much less mess.
Dave
Dave
Buy a pair of remote bleeders from Fosseway!
Remote Bleed Kit for Jaguar IRS Brakes - Fosseway PerformanceFosseway Performance
Remote Bleed Kit for Jaguar IRS Brakes - Fosseway PerformanceFosseway Performance
Dave, you need to run the engine at idle because of the Brake Booster. That is what I was told to do by my mechanic. A second person presses the brake pedal as you open and close the bleeder, then releases it.
Well that is how I did mine, but I did not rest the weight of the car under the mufflers, instead I raised the car and placed concrete blocks and choks under each tire to keep it level, to be able to slide myself in a trolley under the car. I instructed the person sitting in the driver's seat to NOT TOUCH THE SHIFTER, and I made sure the handbrake was very tight.
.
Well that is how I did mine, but I did not rest the weight of the car under the mufflers, instead I raised the car and placed concrete blocks and choks under each tire to keep it level, to be able to slide myself in a trolley under the car. I instructed the person sitting in the driver's seat to NOT TOUCH THE SHIFTER, and I made sure the handbrake was very tight.
.
FWIW I never run the engine for brake bleeding. For the purpose of bleeding, the hydraulic portion of the system doesn't know or care if the booster has engine vacuum or not
Cheers
DD
Cheers
DD
Maybe age has got me.
BUT
The OP is saying a 91 Sov, and with Inboard brakes, means a S3 V12, right?
Somewhere in the late S3 they had ABS, I THINK.
I have never seen a late one, so I have no idea, Has he, maybe, got the Teves system Jag were using on the XJ40, with the Greande under the bonnet.
Or have I finally lost it??
BUT
The OP is saying a 91 Sov, and with Inboard brakes, means a S3 V12, right?
Somewhere in the late S3 they had ABS, I THINK.
I have never seen a late one, so I have no idea, Has he, maybe, got the Teves system Jag were using on the XJ40, with the Greande under the bonnet.
Or have I finally lost it??
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Grant, yes, the last couple years of Series III V12 production had ABS.
But a peek at the exhaust suggests it's a 6 cylinder car and the inboard brakes tells us it isn't an XJ40
From this I assumed a Series III XJ6...which wouldn't have ABS.
"Assumed" can be dangerous, tho !
Cheers
DD
But a peek at the exhaust suggests it's a 6 cylinder car and the inboard brakes tells us it isn't an XJ40
From this I assumed a Series III XJ6...which wouldn't have ABS.
"Assumed" can be dangerous, tho !
Cheers
DD
I used the engine running method decades ago to resolve a bleed issue on our AMC 71 Hornet (Rambler). got the boost to put more pressure in the hydraulic circuit. Much better fluid squirt... Bubbles gone...
Sorry, I should have mentioned I am working on my '87 SIII 6 cylinder. My signature still reads '91 xj40. Can't figure out how to change it.
No, I did not raise the entire car on the mufflers. It is sitting safely on jack stands. I was careful to raise the exhaust pipes just enough to gain access to the bleeder valves.
I did not start the engine as I can't since many components have been removed for replacement. I did turn the key to the position just before "start" and had a friend pump while I released. I bled all lines many times and the pedal is way up and much firmer. It's a good sign. I'll know for certain once I get the car back on the road but I feel good.
No, I did not raise the entire car on the mufflers. It is sitting safely on jack stands. I was careful to raise the exhaust pipes just enough to gain access to the bleeder valves.
I did not start the engine as I can't since many components have been removed for replacement. I did turn the key to the position just before "start" and had a friend pump while I released. I bled all lines many times and the pedal is way up and much firmer. It's a good sign. I'll know for certain once I get the car back on the road but I feel good.
AHA, time to move from coffee to something a tad tangier.
NO need for Ign ON in that car, it only proves the Christmas Tree works or dont.
With that pedal as you describe, all is OK in my opinion.
NO need for Ign ON in that car, it only proves the Christmas Tree works or dont.
With that pedal as you describe, all is OK in my opinion.
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