Hi navigating the interesting jag disc/caliper set up for the first time, looks like ill have to disconnect brake lines to swap discs and pads, with associated bleeding of brakes. Is this what other forum members have encountered? And why do they have the double bolt set up with the hub and disc? Never seen that.

 

Front or rear?

For the front I don't think you have to disconnect the flexible hose. It should be possible to remove the caliper with it still attached and then suspend it in a way that doesn't stress the hose. But if the car is new to you, bleeding the brakes is probably a good idea anyway. The front brake disks are mounted inboard of the hub. You'll need to remove the hub and bearings to get the disk off. Should be ok to reassemble the bearings, just make sure they don't get dirt in them while they're out. This is a good time to repack them with new grease.

For the rear, it is possible to remove the disks with the rear suspension in the car, but its not easy. Far easier to remove the whole rear cage as a unit and work on it separately.

 

Yes front...theres a steel pipe section connected to the caliper....which goes forward and up to the flexible hose. The flexible hose looks very old...but still in reasonable nick. Thanks.

 

Change it!

 

Agreed, both flex are waaaaay past their use by date, and bleeding the brakes at pad change is just a given.

NEVER EVER push the piistons back without cracking that bleed nipple. Any trash, and there will be trash, in the caliper fluid that gets to the Master will ruin your day.

Fluid has a 2 year life.

Hang that caliper from the upper wishbone, opened coat hanger is good.

Why with the bolts, Its a Jag, we dont ask, it is what it is, and works better than any other car. Have a beer instead.

Pay attention to any steering arm shims that MAY be on that lower bolt.

Read the attached to get your head accustomed to the system. Its a simple system really.

 

Yes two thin washers which I can only describe as shims have fallen out when I removed the bolt

 

Well spotted, but you are an Aussie, haha.

Now you know why we drink beer. often.

Just put them aside, and slide them in when reassembling, simple.

 

So two in the bottom bolt? Between caliper and whatever its bolted onto, cant do any work on the car its pouring down here.

 

Between the steering arm and the caliper. So: bolt head, steering arm, shims, caliper, then bolt threaded into the upright.

 

Cheers. Looks like new wheel bearings required had to destroy the inner bearing to get it off. Lucky it wasnt fused done that before.So new wheel bearings new pads new discs, new sachs shocks, new flex brake lines she wont know herself, and I havent started on the back end yet hopefully just a handbrake adjust and the brake bleed....oh by the way I undid the steel pipe to the caliper and it fell on my foot ouch!! Heavy buggers.
Im leaving the blue lowered springs in front and rear at this point they will go at a later date...researching rear shocks not much to choose from unless you own an e-type. Woodhead or adjustable gaz sound good. Springs from sng barrett.....

 

And, repeat in 40 years, only way to go.

I would order a new Rear Brake Hose, while you are at it. There is only one, RH side, chassis to cradle.

Good luck with the rears, never had that on any of mine, ever. Full rebuild, cradle out, and again, repeat in 40 years.