XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Series III preventive rust measures

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Old Nov 11, 2024 | 08:08 PM
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Default Series III preventive rust measures

I have a rust-free 86 series III. I’d really like to keep it that way. I know they are prone to rust around the front and rear windshields. What preventive measures can I take to make sure the car remains rust-free? Any thoughts? I’m in Los Angeles so the car will rarely if ever see snow.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2024 | 08:25 PM
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Keep it garaged for starters
 
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Old Nov 11, 2024 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by slofut
Keep it garaged for starters
Yes! It’s fortunate enough to live inside anything else ? If I get it washed I try to make sure that area is dry but not sure that’s really doing much good
 
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 07:25 AM
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First thing is to make sure the windshield seals are in good condition. If they are dry/cracked, water will get behind the seal and start corroding the metal.

My old cars stay off the road during the winter months, but I still treat vulnerable areas with either Fluid Film or Wool Wax. Fluid Film is good for areas that aren't exposed, like inside the doors. Wool Wax is good for areas that will see water spray, like suspension components, wheel wells, etc. Fluid Film is thinner and "runnier", Wool Wax is thicker and resists wash off.

 
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Thorsen
First thing is to make sure the windshield seals are in good condition. If they are dry/cracked, water will get behind the seal and start corroding the metal.

My old cars stay off the road during the winter months, but I still treat vulnerable areas with either Fluid Film or Wool Wax. Fluid Film is good for areas that aren't exposed, like inside the doors. Wool Wax is good for areas that will see water spray, like suspension components, wheel wells, etc. Fluid Film is thinner and "runnier", Wool Wax is thicker and resists wash off.
thank you for these recommendations!
 
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 02:38 PM
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[QUOTE=Thorsen;2800618]First thing is to make sure the windshield seals are in good condition. If they are dry/cracked, water will get behind the seal and start …./QUOTE]


Well, actually the first thing is to note that the rubber strips (glass to chrome, chrome to body) are NOT seals! They are merely appearance “finishers”. The glass is sealed to the body itself. The corrosion occurs around the front and rear screens precisely because water easily gets into the channel covered by the chrome/rubber - and sits there. If the moisture is salt-laden, the corrosion can be horrific, but even when it is just rain water, any break in the channel paint can start the corrosion process.

To prevent corrosion here the best treatment is to use a corrosion inhibitor fluid to get where the water gets (behind the rubber finishers).
The best product I have found for this (and used on multiple Series III restorations) is RUSTCHECK. It is a rust inhibitor AND the best lubricant you can find, harmless to the paint, the rubber, and electrical connectors. A bead of this product (along the roof edge where the rubber/chrome finisher meets the body) will find its way wherever the water enters. This product also displaces water. 24 hours later you will find evidence of the Rustcheck at the bottom edge of the rubber/chrome where it meets the body.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 03:11 PM
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[QUOTE=sov211;2800751]
Originally Posted by Thorsen
First thing is to make sure the windshield seals are in good condition. If they are dry/cracked, water will get behind the seal and start …./QUOTE]


Well, actually the first thing is to note that the rubber strips (glass to chrome, chrome to body) are NOT seals! They are merely appearance “finishers”. The glass is sealed to the body itself. The corrosion occurs around the front and rear screens precisely because water easily gets into the channel covered by the chrome/rubber - and sits there. If the moisture is salt-laden, the corrosion can be horrific, but even when it is just rain water, any break in the channel paint can start the corrosion process.

To prevent corrosion here the best treatment is to use a corrosion inhibitor fluid to get where the water gets (behind the rubber finishers).
The best product I have found for this (and used on multiple Series III restorations) is RUSTCHECK. It is a rust inhibitor AND the best lubricant you can find, harmless to the paint, the rubber, and electrical connectors. A bead of this product (along the roof edge where the rubber/chrome finisher meets the body) will find its way wherever the water enters. This product also displaces water. 24 hours later you will find evidence of the Rustcheck at the bottom edge of the rubber/chrome where it meets the body.

This is great! I will check that product out.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 04:30 PM
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[QUOTE=sov211;2800751]
Originally Posted by Thorsen
First thing is to make sure the windshield seals are in good condition. If they are dry/cracked, water will get behind the seal and start …./QUOTE]


Well, actually the first thing is to note that the rubber strips (glass to chrome, chrome to body) are NOT seals! They are merely appearance “finishers”. The glass is sealed to the body itself. The corrosion occurs around the front and rear screens precisely because water easily gets into the channel covered by the chrome/rubber - and sits there. If the moisture is salt-laden, the corrosion can be horrific, but even when it is just rain water, any break in the channel paint can start the corrosion process.

To prevent corrosion here the best treatment is to use a corrosion inhibitor fluid to get where the water gets (behind the rubber finishers).
The best product I have found for this (and used on multiple Series III restorations) is RUSTCHECK. It is a rust inhibitor AND the best lubricant you can find, harmless to the paint, the rubber, and electrical connectors. A bead of this product (along the roof edge where the rubber/chrome finisher meets the body) will find its way wherever the water enters. This product also displaces water. 24 hours later you will find evidence of the Rustcheck at the bottom edge of the rubber/chrome where it meets the body.
I was lucky enough to purchase one of the cars Gregory restored as well as a second car that he "suggested" I purchase.

The first one was a '92 Series III VDP that was a daily driver for more than 15 years after we picked it up and there was a never a hint of rust or bubbling around either screen despite weather and road conditions that still give him nightmares.

The second one - also a '92 Series III VDP - is an occasional "summer cruiser" that never sees winter or water other than washing "as needed" and also shows nary a hint of rust or bubbling around either screen or elsewhere more than 9 years later.

The current daily driver - an '01 XJR - was also purchased from him and is proving to be a worthy successor to the '92 Series III under the same weather extremes.
 
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