My understanding is a problem with these cars seems to be headbolts that travel into the coolent jackets, which causes said bolts to carrode. Wouldn't waterless coolent solve this problem? Has anyone here tried waterless coolent? Thanks for your feedback!

 

I haven't, but even if I did, it would be kinda late to start using it, wouldn't it? I use a 60/40 mix ((60% coolant to 40% water), no problems, but then I haven't had to remove the cylinder head either!!

 

My thinking is even if there was corrosion switching to waterless coolant would at least stop the corrosion from getting worse.. Of course ideally the switch to waterless would be after an engine rebuild with fresh headbolts. Again, just curious if anyone has any experience with it.

 

as I understand it, it doesn't affect every engine. A friend just removed the head in a 1966 3.8 liter engine and the bolts did not break due to corrosion. A lot has to do with maintenance, or the lack of it.

I use and have used Prestone since the early 1970's, (not the pre-mixed). Haven't had problems. Try the 60/40 mix, it has less water.

 

AFAIK the 'wet stud' engine revision didn't come long until the late 70s or early 80s. Maybe beginning with the Series III?

No experience with waterless coolant, sorry.

Like Jose I just use the old fashioned stuff.

Cheers
DD

 

Long (wet) stud blocks came out in the 70s but not sure which exact year. The first series were 7L, then 8L. My 1980 Series 3 had an 8L block and when I rebuilt the engine around an uncracked block, that was a 7L. 7L blocks were less susceptible to cracking than the 8Ls, but only marginally, like 70% of 7L, versus 80% of 8Ls. The later slotted blocks don't crack.

 

All 7L & 8L blocks are long stud. 69" series 1 was long stud, as were all 4.2 XK engines after that.
As for cracks I have no idea, I have an 83" slotted block.

 

If I were rebuilding a stock 6 cylinder, I would pass on the head bolts and use heli coil inserts and new short head bolts to attach head to block.

Blew head gasket twice, engine was wearing out, tappet buckets kept making a racket, chains were worn, was still needing extra coolant every so often. Got tired of fooling with it and went the new v8 efi / 4l60 trans route.

Happy !!

There is a video somewhere on YOUTUBE of someone doing this "helicoil treatment" for the same reason - head gasket/corroded stud issues.

I would not want to have the bottom of the headbolt break off deep down inside the engine. Now you have a problem...

How many luxury cars need "waterless coolant" ?

 

Just because the coolant is waterless doesn't mean it's corrosion-less. There's a few significant drawbacks to these products. I wouldn't touch them with a 12' Yugoslavian.

 

i used it for 11years in a Mazda rotary when changing hoses ,NO sign of any corrosian at all! and they do use some very long studs thru some coolant passeges!

also in a BBC Chevy, NO problems! except price??

to each his own, and how well they understand it!

waterless coolant was developed for Vietnam helicopters, for the jungle hitemps ,hydraulic systems boiling.