I'm writing this after searching the forums looking for advice on engine rebuilding/machine shops that can rebuild my 4.2 liter out of my 1977 XJ6C.

The car was stored for a long period of time with the engine out of the car and prior to storage the engine was not prepped for long term storage. I have asked several knowledgeable people about rebuilding the current engine as I am concerned that being out of the car for 25 or so years, the internals are likely in the need of refreshing, although the car only had about 57k on it when parked.

I want to keep the car as original as possible, therefore the SBC-V8 conversion is out and although it would be probably easier to buy a running, but rusty Series 2 sedan to pull the mechanicals, I'd like to stay with the original engine.

Questions:
1) Are there machine shops/engine rebuilders that the forum members have had experience with in the Northeast US that they would recommend?

2) I have experience with rebuilding pushrod engines in the past, however have never attempted an OHC rebuild. If a reputable shop did any machining work needed, would it be recommended to attempt the reassembly myself? (I realize that's a Pandora's box, but I'd like to hear some advice)

3)The car is missing the following: flywheel, starter, alternator, AC compressor and several of the attaching hardware. Would it be easier to buy a runner just to pull the running gear out of, or was there a wide variety from year to year in the ancillary equipment that I would be creating more of a headache for myself?

4) Assuming I'd stay with stock performance, are there any upgrades that would make the car more reliable in the long run? Some have suggested using the series 3 head, but I'm not really sure why?

Again, I have searched the forums, but I still expect to get flamed for not finding what I was searching for. I thank you in advance for any/all advice given.

 

In my opinion. build it yourself. It's a huge chore to find someone to work on anything Jaguar.
Oh I should say that I don't trust mechanics. probably should let that be known.
I got my jag knowing that it is high maintenence and I do all my own work.

 

Congrats on finding a XJ6C. Which one did you find? Sounds like the one in CT that was in a storage unit sold by David Brill..correct?


Few local engine builders around that do Jaguar stuff, you need a specialist and after the cost of shipping and the price of parts you're in for big bills unless...


If you can have successfully rebuilt a domestic push rod motor the XK engine is certainly with in your reach. Both were developed in the 50's and have similar tolerances. The OHC Jag engine is the next technological step and there are a few additional considerations related to the timing chain and tappet clearance. After you build an XK you will have a new appreciation for the engineering of both the XK and the simplicity and effectiveness of the domestic V8.
You should start with a simple compression test so you can evaluate what you have before making any moves. I wonder why the engine was removed? It may have been removed because of an mechanical issue.

You may want to consider getting this book "How to Power Tune Jaguar XK 3.4, 3.8 & 4.2 Litre Engines"
https://books.google.com/books?id=FC...ne%20r&f=false

It covers most of what you need to know.

Since you're missing so much, you may want to consider a rusty but running Series 3 and pull the drive train. Then converting to carb. For $1000 you can buy a driving/running Series 3 and complete the swap. Series 3 Also have the O-ring AC system, Series 2 uses leaky flares. Always tension to consider between originality and expediency.

The book previously referenced delves into performance.
Late Series 3 heads are less crack prone. By 1986 Jag got their act together on the Series 3 and the machining is more precise. Exhaust valve guides can move around but there is a repair kit that can be fitted.

Flamed?....probably not here. This forum is a bit more polite than most.

 

Welcome to the forum!
Keeping it stock, with matching numbers, will assure the true value of your coupe.
You may consider using a modern AC compressor, a lightened flywheel and a new lightweight geared starter. Geared starters have more starting power and are smaller, than stock. I would send your head to the best rebuilder, as well as the block and assemble it yourself, later. Make sure that the valve seats have the retainers installed. You may consider converting the transmission to a 5-speed manual, since the engine is out of the car.
Good luck with your project....

 

If you can rebuild a pushrod engine then you should be able to rebuild the XK engine. It's just bigger!
There's plenty of info out there on how to do it and any time you get stuck, post some questions on here.

At 57k I would expect you to need a regrind for the crank. The rope seal at the back can be a bit of a pig apparently. There is a conversion to a conventional seal modification but it's very pricey.

The main thing to look for are corroded waterways.

If there isn't a tappet stakedown kit fitted then fit one.

If you take the head off I'd be tempted to swap it for a series 3 head (still fit the stakedown kit) as it's got slightly larger intake valves.

If you're going to strip it down then maybe consider giving a light port and polish.

The engine and mechanicals are less of a problem that rust on the body chassis!!

Good find and good luck.

 

As for the manual conversion this thread may provide some hope in the future

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-42820/page9/

 

ICS America,

You are correct, this XJ6C is the one out of Connecticut that David Brill had been showing. I had originally looked at the car and was sitting on the fence, but the price dropped a bit more and given the lack of rust I had to pull the trigger to buy it. I'm not certain as to why the engine was pulled. The radiator had a gouge in it and the radiator fan was bent, but the fan clutch spins freely(although given the whack it likely got, it will be replaced as it is the exact one that is on Triumphs of the same vintage.) I'm going to pull the plugs on the engine and see what kind of compression numbers I get.

Thanks for the information about the power tuning book by Des Hammill. I'm trying to track down a hard copy (As much as I try, I'm not a huge fan of Kindle or iBooks, especially in the garage where I like to have something that is easily accessible and won't crack when a torque wrench falls on it)

Any suggestion on a machine shop, if needed in this area?

Thanks,

Steve

 

Thanks Giovanni: I've given some thought to the manual transmission conversion especially with a more modern 5 speed, but then I get pangs of remorse when I think about deviating from stock. Were the home market manual transmission cars a 4 speed with the D-type electric overdrive available in 3rd and 4th gear? I have a 76 Spitfire with that unit and it is easily the best piece on that car. It works flawlessly.

 

Thanks Anjum: I may start looking for a series 3 rusty driver to be a donor car. When I pulled the waterpump on the engine I was surprised by the degree of scaling that came out, but the visible water ports I've seen thus far, look to be in decent shape.

Was the purpose of the tappet stakedown to prevent lifter float at higher RPM's? I've seen this mentioned in other posts, but I wasn't certain of its purpose. And thanks for the link on support for Series I,II and III chassis.

 

Sorry just reread my post, It should have read "At 57k I would NOT expect you to need a regrind for the crank."!!! But it will depend on how well it was maintained. Just measure the gap and replace the bearing shells if ok and not scored.

The stake down kit was designed to stop the bucket sleeves coming loose and hitting the cam and causing damage.

Valve float is normally avoided by fitting stronger double springs but I don't think they are of benefit unless you are going to race tune the engine, which I've never done.

The des Hamill book is very difficult to find in hard copy and expensive. It would be far cheaper to buy the ebook and print out sections as you need them.

The series 3 had a 5 speed manual gearbox which would be best if you can find one, I've recently bought one, cost me quite a lot with all the conversion bits and I still have no idea on it's condition!

 

Joke:


Some time ago, my son had an automotive machine shop in a nearby town.
One day, I was out doing errands in my still DOHC powered 83 XJ6. Very nce looking as well. One of his pals was a county building inspector. Their reputation si just above "dog catcher". His marked car was there


Son's comments: "My reputation is ruined".


He did a lot of machine work on many a critter, But VW's and Jaguars not accepted!!


Carl

 

Well, when one buys a car, it is his, to do as he pleases. Some restore them beautifuly, others a bit differenet, some way different. But, all best the wrecker destiny.


Carl

 

By 1977, the 5-speed Getrag manual transmission was used.
Same trans, that was used in BMW's.