Sorry if this has been posted before, but I couldn't find anything similar with the search.

I want to replace my brake master cylinder, so I ordered a new one off RockAuto. However the part seems to be a mirror of what I have? Like the outgoing brake lines are on the wrong side? My car is RHD, maybe the part I have is for a LHD version?

Is there anyway to make what I have work?

Also how do the plastic elbows come out, It seems I need to reuse them for this one.

P.S yes I'm sorry about the wiring and general state of play - this car is in need of major restore. I'll get around to it in 30 years or so :P



Hard to see but the fittings for the brake likes (out) are on the wrong side

Hard to see but the fittings for the brake likes (out) are on the wrong side

 

Yes, it's a RHD vs. LHD drive thing

Without bending new pipes I can't see any way to make it work.

Elbows: I think they just wiggle out but it's been many years since I had an XJS so I'm a bit foggy on that.

Someone with a better memory will come along soon, I'm sure

Cheers
DD

 

RHD master cylinders are easily obtained in the UK

 

Thanks Greg, whats a good supplier in the UK for future reference?

I use Rockauto (US) which I find to be excellent (this is the 1st mistake as the part was not labelled LHD) but the shipping rates are very good and very fast.

I think I will stick with this part if I can, as it cost me $400 and that took me a year to save up! I Think I should be able to bend the brake lines to suit, never done it before but im lvl 3 youtube qualified - what could go wrong :P

Do you know what size the rigid brake lines are? Are they 3/16"? Would this be a good kit to buy (if I end up crushing or snapping the original brake lines? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...9589&jsn=17165

 

Thank you Doug. I think I will have to bend some pipes

 

Yes, the plastic elbows into the actual cylinder metal body are press fit into solid-ish rubber rings, so they compress the whole fitting and make it fluid tight. VERY easy to crack them getting them out if they are half cooked by engine bay heat.
Running new pipes is not that hard, but i would counsel borrowing a decent pipe-flare tool, and using cupro-nickel pipe and brass connectors. Also not that the actual screw-in fittings are different thread diameters between the two ports on the cylinder (this to ensure the front and rear brakes cannot be connected to the wrong part of the cylinder).
There are connectors just below the master cylinder (as visible in this photo) which you could conveniently make the connection at. You van see my cupro-nickel pipe coming up from the rear going well past its connector (LHS of the two), and the OEM green pipes (RHS of the two) going to the front brakes. As you can see if you follow the pipes, the front port bf the cylinder does the front brakes, the rear the rear.

 

wow thanks Greg that's really helpful. Esp about the different threads! Knowing me I would of got that wrong! Wish the Haynes manual mentioned that.... I also noticed the convenient connectors which made me think its not such a big task.

Just to be crystal, I have this right aye?

Is this correct?

Do you have any tips on getting the elbows out, do I simply remove the master cylinder from the booster and then start tugging on the elbows? Mine look pretty scummy, can you buy replacement ones? Can't quite get my head around press fittings in a pressurised brake system...

In terms of a flare kit - this is what I have in my garage. I think this will only do a simple flare - is that going to be suitable?

Don't have a pipe bender but I have this small metal pulley which I was going to try and use. If I stuff it up I can buy new pipe and a bender from Rockauto easy enough, and it's only 1-2 week wait so not too bad



Thanks for your help

 

You can buy pipe at any local auto parts big box store and sometimes they have bending and flare tools. More, harbor freight has these things for almost nothing. Make life easy...

If you search Manners, British Parts, eBay, you can get the master you need I'm sure. What year is yours? Can you do an exchange with Rock?

As far as master cylinder goes,,, are there any cylinders from any of the XJ lines that will fit? And, what about rebuilding these?

 

Thanks Jay,

I'm in New Zealand - other side of the world, and we are currently in lockdown - no one is allowed to operate retail (even online...) so I gotta buy from the states. I don't think Harbour Freight ships internationally but Rockauto does. Living on the other side of the world is awesome, except its really expensive to return parts - Im going to stick with this LHD master cylinder and make it work

 

Oh shoot! Sorry, I spoke without knowing... I get it.

 

yes im very sad to see the news what the states is going through right now.

Very glad to be in NZ where we have had only 1 death - BUT the country is in total lockdown. We are allowed to leave the house but only to go to the supermarket, doctors etc or for a short walk. No seeing family or friends. But we should be out of this lockdown within 2 more weeks all things going well.

I wish you and your family all are safe and well.

 

Yes

The plastic elbows are not pressurised any more than the reservoir is. They feed the M/c only when the pedal is not being pushed. You need one of these: AAU6839# Jaguar Car Brake Master Cylinder Repair Kit. David Manners have them.

My experience with that sort of flare kit has been that they do not work. I chucked mine after a day of ruining perfectly good brake pipe and spent a fortune on a proper flarer. I think this sort will work well:
You need to find a place with a proper flaring tool and use that. I realise this may be quasi-impossible right now... but a little phoning around to your local garage might help? The cupro/nickel can be bent round anything round by hand easily enough.

 

Well thanks to all your help I got the new master cylinder on and bent the existing pipes to fit. I decided not to cut and leave them long so I can take it to a shop who can make new ones that will look better.


Except I stripped the thread on the connecter as below - anyone know what the thread size is so I can order a tap?

 

Do NOT retap that fitting. Assuming it is the female thread in the fitting that is stripped, not the male part on the pipe, buy a new fitting.

 

Thank you greg, I'll try and source this part. IF anyone is interested I found the part number https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...e=900582953763

at over $60 to get the part to NZ, im going to have a hunt around wreckers and other suppliers :P I figured genuine would be twice the price, but $60 is about 10x the price :P

 

A breaker should have one, and it is a standard part on loads of cars. These guys are not near you (!)
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk
but they have everything. It will be one of these two I think, just verify the thread size.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/brass-...t-piece-38-unf
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/brass-t-piece-716-unf