I should probably introduce myself first. I bought a Regent Grey 1986 XJ-S about 1.5 years ago and have been slowly restoring it. I never really meant to restore it. I meant to replace the carpet and repaint it. But one thing led to another and here I am. I'll start another thread about the entire project later.

My current problem involves replacing the front and rear glass. I bought used glass off Ebay and both the front and back are pristine. After several companies declined to install it either because as they said "we don't do Jaguars" or "we don't install glass we don't provide" an installer was found who agreed to install front and rear glass and charge per hour.

I ordered what appears to be the ONLY front/rear gaskets for the windshield, front gasket number BDC7178 and rear gasket number BD44393.

The installer swears that the front rubber aftermarket gasket does not have a groove into which the chrome trim fits as with the original Jaguar rubber gasket. One problem I have just realized is that I did NOT order the second piece for the front glass—a rubber "lockstrip" that is to be installed after the gasket. Is this the problem? Does this lockstrip help to secure the chrome trim in any way?

On the rear glass, the installer swears that the aftermarket rear gasket rubber BD44393 is too large to fit, saying it is much puffier than the original rear gasket it replaces. I found several remarks online from XJ-S owners saying that glass installers originally thought either the front or rear or BOTH gaskets were too large at first, but later realized they would fit if installed correctly.

It looks like the ONLY current supplier of the front and rear windshield gaskets and lockstrip is APA/URO. Has anyone else had an issue with installing the front/rear glass using their gaskets?

Thanks to any that respond. I need to get this done so that they car can finally leave the shop after 1 year and go to paint. Believe me, you will all want to see it when it's done.

Seth

 

Hi Seth welcome.

I had a new front screen installed earlier this year and the new rubber was bigger than the old one. You do need a locking strip that is under the chrome trim. Also there are spacers as well without these spacers the screen will be loose.

Cheers
Warren

 

Thanks for the quick reply Warren. Can you give me any more info on the spacers you mention? I don't see these listed on any of the websites that sell the front gasket and lockstrip. What do these look like and do you know where to buy them?

Thanks again.

Seth

 

They go between the windscreen and the rubber I am not sure which side, the guy who did my screen knew about them. My PC at home crashed last night so when I get runnning I will check out my parts catalog.

cheers
Warren

 

Thanks Warren. I appreciate it.

 

I have had a look in the parts catalog and it does not list any spacers - maybe the ones in mine were an engineering change that is listed in a service bulletin somewhere.

 

I have never seen any spacers on any Jag screen, nor in any of the (now) numerous WSMs I have.

Generally I have found that the XJ-S is particularly bad when it comes to fit, just about on par with a Jensen Interceptor front screen. I use non-setting mastic in the rubber before I put it on the screen.
I then tape it to the screen with half a dozen strips of masking tape. Then mastic in the outer slot toward the body. Then a woven nylon pulling thread all around the slot, starting and ending at the bottom.

Cover the headlining with masking tape and plastic a bit in, and similarly the dash. Remove the A-pillar covers. Place the screen and start to juggle it down on the lower bodywork lip in the aperture.

When settled (including slapping the screen on the outside with aflat hand with a slight downward movement) start pulling to get the rubber seal in over the bodywork lip where not already in place. Remove the masking tape strips one at a time only just before you get to them working on the seal. Have somebody slapping on the outside while you are working inside (or get out quite often to do it yourself.

Use throwavay rubber gloves as the masic will follow the pulling thread as it comes out. That is why you need plastic on the dash too. Have several pairs of gloves handy. Once the glass is in position use white spirit on a non linting cloth to remove any mastic from glass and bodywork.

Remember to wash off later and polish paintwork. Before fitting the stainless steel trim check that you have suficient overlap between the screen and the aperture in the corners. If necessary use some extra mastic.

Rear screen is pretty much the same procedure except that you should check any new screens for fit as some aftermarket rear screens are too deep down at the lower corners so it is extremely difficult to get a proper fit. They are a very tight fit as it is, and a real pig to fit BTW the body tends to suffer because water collects at the lower corners and rust holes appear.

I have in vain tried to get glass shops to take on the job. None of the reputable ones wanted to touch it with a barge pole and the more shady ones would not guarantee anything! (I didn't really consider using them, just that curiosity got the better of me )

Oh, and I forgot: I had to cut away a full inch at the top of the seal I bought fro Jaguar classic spares.

 

Thanks for looking Warren.

Per, thanks for the detailed response. It's looking like I may need to search for an experienced person willing to do this for $$$$ and just deal with the higher cost instead of letting this inexperienced guy get his practice with my car. I'm not sure if I'm ready to give it a go myself just yet.

 

Front and rear glass is in. Original guy pulled in an older tech to help and they got it done. They guaranteed neither front nor rear would leak.

The front looks fine, but the rear rubber seems to protrude a bit too far from the opening. That said, on the inside it looks fine. As soon as I get the car back from the shop, I'll take a pic and see if you of you fine gents can give me an opinion.

 

I'll be removing my front and rear stainless trim in order to do bodywork. If I'm not removing the front and rear screen, is that a less painful job? I noticed that all the rubber is cracked and needs replacement as well.

 

If not already done, I strongly suggest you ask them to place a decent sized bead of mastic between the bodywork and the chrome trim on the rear window. That is, over the top of the rubber that is there. The rear window will definitely leak without this, which should be done all round, including the horizontal piece above the boot lid, and paying close attention to the corners. Push it in with a gloved finger then wipe off the smears with white spirit as already mentioned.

Good luck with the project
Greg

 

Agreed on this.

I was a bit surprised at the trials and tribulations mentioned in the earlier posts, though.

Due to a leak I needed a new windshield seal, which I ordered from Coventry West. Had an ordinary glass guy do the job....he had never worked on any type of Jaguar before....and it was all done in about an hour. Looked great and didn't leak. The installer said "....it was a "piece of cake. Sorta like an old VW".

<shrug>

Maybe I just got lucky?

Or maybe not. The stainless surround trim, which I had removed myself ahead of time, was an absolute bitch to refit properly. If you look at it the wrong way it distorts!

Cheers
DD

 

Having no money to hire someone I purchased a seal for the front but I believe I reused the rear seal as these survive longer than the front.

In my nieve case vaseline was the sliding agent and figuring out how that front window was going to go in was fun (NO), but I figured it and popped it in eventually.

I don't recall using any sealer at all and never had any leaks (Maybe I got lucky), or maybe all that vaseline did the trick?

The rear seal I cleaned up with lacquer thinner and then wd40d the crap out of it after then installed it too with the petroleum.

I cleaned everything up after putting on the stainless and taped along the outer stainless 1/8 away from the edge and 1/8 on to the body. In the groove between, I caulked with Black 100% silicone sealer. wiped the excess till it was even and smooth then removed the tape.

It looked as though it belonged there from the factory and there would NEVER be a leak around THAT window again.

I did not do the same for the front as it was aready ok. Bud

 

I just did both front and the back and while rear glass was walk in the park, front raped me properly.
Lock strip can usually be reused, rear does not need any lock.
I also used 3M windshield glue, which mare my life a lot harder. I also has black hands for nearly a week. Without gluing these rubbers in, there will be leaks.
Process is standard, rope (thick electric wire in my case), being pulled all around seal to sit the rubber.

Front rubber is always too large, to it need to be cut in the dead bottom center and then sealed together with some black glue.
Some pics...

 

I actually shoved/compressed/tugged/pulled the front rubber gasket myself (after the glass installer insisted it was too big to be the correct gasket) so that the rubber wasn't bunched up. Took some doing, but was able to get it to lay down evenly without cutting a section out and without having a curved section of extra gasket sticking up. To be honest, I didn't even know that cutting a section out is something that could be done. That may be why mine is leaking a bit at the bottom driver's corner.

The guy that did mine had never done one with a separate gasket. It would seem that for old VW guys, installation of our windshields is a snap. For the newly-trained glass professionals, it's Russian rocket science.

 

Thanks Greg. I will definitely be doing this on the rear.

 

Thanks for all of those pictures...that will be a big help for when I do mine.

 

I just had the windscreen seal replaced on my 90 XJS and we had no problems. I bought the seal from Welsh(i think). They told me that alot of installers will say the seal is too large but if it is installed correctly it will fit without mods. They were right! It's all in how the seal is installed apparently. The guy let me help which is a huge plus for me. No more leaks!

 

Forgot to mention......

Silicone is very corrosive to steel and aluminum so I would strongly suggest using the proper window adhesive.

 

I'm fortunate enough to have Bob Tilley here in Houston, whom I talk to from time to time. I'll get with him too just to make sure it's done right.