1988 ABS Teves brake system flush
#1
1988 ABS Teves brake system flush
I have searched lots of threads and assembled what I think is the best procedure.
Please let me know if I am on track.
Thanks.
Dot 4 - break fluid
Jack up the rear on stands and remove wheels.
START AT REAR LEFT, THEN REAR RIGHT THEN FRONT LEFT, FRONT RIGHT.
ONE PERSON IN THE CAR, ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS FULLY TOPPED UP.
TURN ON IGNITION AND WAIT UNTIL BOTH ABS AND LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED AND ALSO THE MOTOR PUMP HAS CUT OUT.
THEN, OPEN REAR LEFT BLEED NIPPLE AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL DOWN, WITH IGNITION ON FOR 15 SECONDS – NO MORE
TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE, TURN OFF IGNITION, RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL - wife's job.
WAIT ONE MINUTE AND REPEAT FROM RESTORING SYSTEM PRESSURE AS ABOVE UNTIL FLUID RUNS CLEAR.
MOVE ON TO OTHER REAR CALIPER.
THIS PREVENTS THE MOTOR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
Rear is now completed.
Front is done the old fashioned way, wife pumping the peddle while I open and close the caliper nipples, again until fluid runs clear.
Note - put something under the peddle so wife can't push the peddle down too far and push crap in to the master cylinder.
I have used Stahlbus - The stahlbus® bleeder valve
On my motorcycles with great success, only issue is the bleeder valves are quite long, Need to remove a wheel to see if there will be clearance issues.
Anyone know?
I have build a vacuum suction system using compressed air and a vacuum pneumatic venture, push a button and the system will suck BF - I use this with Stah.. bleeder valves, works great. Would this work with standard nipples?
Or best to do the pumping thing?
Does this sound all ok?
thanks.
Please let me know if I am on track.
Thanks.
Dot 4 - break fluid
Jack up the rear on stands and remove wheels.
START AT REAR LEFT, THEN REAR RIGHT THEN FRONT LEFT, FRONT RIGHT.
ONE PERSON IN THE CAR, ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS FULLY TOPPED UP.
TURN ON IGNITION AND WAIT UNTIL BOTH ABS AND LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED AND ALSO THE MOTOR PUMP HAS CUT OUT.
THEN, OPEN REAR LEFT BLEED NIPPLE AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL DOWN, WITH IGNITION ON FOR 15 SECONDS – NO MORE
TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE, TURN OFF IGNITION, RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL - wife's job.
WAIT ONE MINUTE AND REPEAT FROM RESTORING SYSTEM PRESSURE AS ABOVE UNTIL FLUID RUNS CLEAR.
MOVE ON TO OTHER REAR CALIPER.
THIS PREVENTS THE MOTOR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
Rear is now completed.
Front is done the old fashioned way, wife pumping the peddle while I open and close the caliper nipples, again until fluid runs clear.
Note - put something under the peddle so wife can't push the peddle down too far and push crap in to the master cylinder.
I have used Stahlbus - The stahlbus® bleeder valve
On my motorcycles with great success, only issue is the bleeder valves are quite long, Need to remove a wheel to see if there will be clearance issues.
Anyone know?
I have build a vacuum suction system using compressed air and a vacuum pneumatic venture, push a button and the system will suck BF - I use this with Stah.. bleeder valves, works great. Would this work with standard nipples?
Or best to do the pumping thing?
Does this sound all ok?
thanks.
Last edited by Dukejag; 03-26-2019 at 03:24 AM.
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (03-26-2019)
#3
#4
I flushed the brake fluid a couple weeks ago. I used a cheap garden sprayer connected to the reservoir and pumped it up. I did have the front brake lines disconnected to replace the disks. With the pressure system you do not need to bleed the low pressure side just pump pressure into the reservoir and open the nipple. I did turn the ignition on to run the ABS pump then open the nipple again to ensure the pump had no air in it.
The cap I made from an old sofa plastic foot and cut the thread on the lathe. JIC fittings are used on the cap.
An old mayonnaise jar was used to catch the old fluid. Started at the Left Rear and worked my way forward.
The cap I made from an old sofa plastic foot and cut the thread on the lathe. JIC fittings are used on the cap.
An old mayonnaise jar was used to catch the old fluid. Started at the Left Rear and worked my way forward.
#5
Bugger - flush the system... LOL
Hi Warren - yes read that on your blog but the pictures were gone, dam photo bucket! Looks like a good option.
I like that idea if I can come up with a lid..... i have access to a lathe but it is not good for threads and I have not machined a thread in 30yrs... let alone an internal thread in to a confined space.
Would not end well! You have amazing skills, love what you have done with your car.
Still may have to do this the old way.
Hi Warren - yes read that on your blog but the pictures were gone, dam photo bucket! Looks like a good option.
I like that idea if I can come up with a lid..... i have access to a lathe but it is not good for threads and I have not machined a thread in 30yrs... let alone an internal thread in to a confined space.
Would not end well! You have amazing skills, love what you have done with your car.
Still may have to do this the old way.
Last edited by Dukejag; 03-26-2019 at 09:04 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dukejag:
Fla Steve (03-26-2019),
orangeblossom (03-26-2019)
#7
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#8
I have used Stahlbus - The stahlbus® bleeder valve
On my motorcycles with great success, only issue is the bleeder valves are quite long, Need to remove a wheel to see if there will be clearance issues.
Anyone know?
On my motorcycles with great success, only issue is the bleeder valves are quite long, Need to remove a wheel to see if there will be clearance issues.
Anyone know?
On the front brakes their length will be no problem as the bleeder points inwards to the centre of the car.
On the rears, I think a remote bleeder kit is the best idea, as getting at the bleed nipple is otherwise a real pain and will be made worse by the length of these items. eg
Remote Bleed Kit for Jaguar IRS Brakes - Fosseway PerformanceFosseway Performance
I have all the bits on this page, including the brass adaptors, and it makes bleeding the rears a cinch.
#9
#10
Here is the picture of the Stahlbus bleed nipples, as said once screwed in to the caliper you never have to undo them.
I have had these for years on my bikes and love them.. one old man job...
Now i have contacted Stahlbus .. company and guess what.. no idea on the XJS but will add them to their list if I can tell them what size / thread the nipple is!
So my question...anyone know?
I have had these for years on my bikes and love them.. one old man job...
Now i have contacted Stahlbus .. company and guess what.. no idea on the XJS but will add them to their list if I can tell them what size / thread the nipple is!
So my question...anyone know?
#11
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