Hi,
I have a UK (ie rhd) '94 4.0 Celebration coupe, which seems to have developed an intermittent fuel delivery issue.

It took it on a long drive at the weekend and it performed perfectly until I parked up for coffee. When I returned and restarted it again it fired up, then stalled after 30secs. After this it would crank, occasionally fire, occasionally start for a sec or 2, but not run reliably.

I got the car trailered home...many hours later!! At which time it fired up 1st time and I could drive it easily onto my driveway.

My diagnosis is that there is debris (rust?) Innthe tank whuch gor sturred up and blocked the gauze filter on the pump, but which had shaken loose by the time the car got home.

Assuming the above is correct ,I want to remove the tank inspect and (probably) clean it out.

The only things blocking that task (so far!) are the 2 hose connectors at the back of the tank (picture attached). The posts I've read, here and elsewhere, suggest you need to make/buy a tool to insert into the connectors to release them. As you can see in the photo, there is nowhere to insert that tool...Can anyone offer any advice on how this type of connector is released?!

There seems to be some kind of spring clip on each...do I just wrestle these off & pull/twist them off, of is there more to it than that!?

Many thanks in advance for your insight!

Cheers

Paul.

 

So as is often the case... you post, then continue searching, only to find an answer (or at lease a partial answer)...in this case, this post by OrangBlossom, specifically 'Chapter 90'...

So, if/when I manage to release my connectors... do I need to replace any kind of o-ring or seal inside the connector before re-fittingh them? If so is there a part number or a specific size I should use?

UPDATE - maybe this will help someone...

As you can see in the photo, the connectors are different sizes. The the o-ring & spring clip part numebrs are:
Feed
AGU1386 - available & in stock (from 'parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com' at time of posting)
CBC8293 - no longer available

Return
AGU1387 - available but not in stock
CBC8294 - available & in stock

I'll keep looking to see if I can find out their sizes & if equivelents are available

cheers

Paul

 

Paul,

Before you start pulling those fuel lines apart, when did you last replace the fuel filter?

Unless it was in the last year, start by replacing that and see if the problem resolves.

Good luck

Paul

 

Orange Blossom has the definitive guide on your project. You shouldn't need the CBC parts, as they are reusable clips. I believe there's a GM or Ford part that will work as well if you keep searching.
As far as the AGU o-rings.... If or when you get them, if you can measure them and share here, that would be a big help when those rings are both NLA. I'm sure they are some standard size that can be found at McMaster or someplace like that. Thanks.

 

Hi Paul (ptjs1),

It was replaced around 1500 miles ago - and I intent to replace it now, regardless.

TBH, the car was unused for quite a while before I got it, so the risk of rust in the tank is quite high, I suspect.

I'm hopefull that I can pull the tank just far enough back (without complete disassembly), to be able to remove the pump assembly, so I can visually confirm the interal state of the tank. If I need to clean it i'll remove it fully, otherwise I'll leave well alone.

cheers

Paul

 

I'll do what I can.

 

If you got through all that trouble, I would replace the fuel pump and associated hoses inside that fuel tank. No need to go through all that work now, and then again a year from now when the 30 year old pump dies, or the 30 year old hoses inside the tank finally disintegrate. (far more likely, by the way)

 

100% correct!

 

Hi Yawning Angel

Just in case it hasn't sunk in, 'This is the Job from Hell' and a Garage could easily Charge you around £2000-£5000 to do this Job for you

Remove the Tank, Clean it out and then Replace the Pump, all of which is so laborious that once you make a Start on this, you have to see it through right to the end and that means taking every thing out of the Boot/Trunk which also includes all of the brackets and trim and maybe even the CD Player as well

Together with the Bracket and Gas Strut that holds up the Boot/Trunk lid

That will feel like it weighs a Ton and is unbelievably heavy and awkward to support and had you bought a Convertible, this job would have been even more difficult than its already going to be

But since you were asking about those Fuel Pipes, what you need to do is Cut a Slot in a length of 1/2 inch 15mm Copper Water Pipe, wide enough to cradle the Fuel Pipe, so it sort of looks like its laying in a 'Trough'

Then Slide it along the Fuel Pipe underneath the Car, until it then makes contact with the back of those fittings that are Secured by those Clips, although before you Start on this put a Bed Sheet underneath your Car, as those Springs can suddenly fly off in any direction, making them very difficult to find

So you need the Sheet underneath in order to Catch them and see where they fell, as they Spring off and also wear eye protection like a pair of Goggles

Then what you do is Compress those Fittings by Pushing on the end of the Copper Pipe 'Trough Gadget' that you made, while your 'Mate' who is also wearing eye protection, simply pulls those Spring Clips off the side of those fittings with a Pair of Long Nose Pliers

Once you pulled the Spring Clips Off, then just pull the Fuel Pipes out of their Sockets, which should come out easily BUT DON'T LOSE THOSE CLIPS! because as you have now found out, getting hold of replacements may not be easy!

You can Simply Re-Use everything and then replace the 'O' Rings Later, should you feel you need to do so

How to remove the Fuel Tank and Replace The Fuel Pump on a 1995 XJS 4.0 Litre Car

 

XJS 4.0L Fuel Tank and Pump Replacement with Loads of PhotosHi Yawning Angel

Before you start Pulling the Tank out, which as already mentioned is the Job from Hell

It could very easily be something else and so before you start on this onerous Task, I think it may be well worth while to check on the Fuel Delivery to the Engine

(1) Can you hear the Fuel Pump Running? It only runs for a Few Seconds every time you turn the Key, so you need someone to listen while you turn on the ignition

(2) If you can't hear the Pump Running, then it may be the Fuel Pump Relay which is inside the Boot Trunk, underneath the inner wing (Fender) drivers side on a (UK) Car but you will have to remove the Carpeted Trim which covers the Inner Wing Fender to get to it

This will be the Silver one and its tucked up under the Fender completely out of sight, so you will need a Mirror on a Stick to even see it
These are not expensive, so it may be very well worth while to get one anyway

(3) Next you need to Check on the Fuel Delivery and so with the ignition off and preferably with the Battery Disconnected, undo the Pipe to the Fuel Rail and also have some rags handy to catch any residual drips

Then get another piece of Tube of a bit larger bore and then push the end of the Pipe that you took off the Fuel Rail inside this (Basically just to extend it) then hang this extended Pipe over the Side of the Front Fender/Wing, Reconnect the Battery and then Crank the Engine

While having a Container in the Hands of a 'Mate' to Catch the Petrol in it as it hopefully gushes out, which should be Continuous while the Engine is Cranking

Not to be Confused with residual pressure, as the Petrol should be pouring out of there like a Fire Hose! Talking of which take all the Sensible precautions of having a Fire Extinguisher at hand and do this out in the open and not in a Confined Space like your Garage

In the event that Petrol is pouring out Continuously while the Engine is being Cranked, then that's great news!

But if that doesn't happen, then Change the Fuel Pump Relay and then just 'Rinse and Repeat' what you did before

(4) You really don't want to take the Tank out, not unless you absolutely have to, as the Chances are you may get to a point where you feel like ending it all and that is after you've managed to drink all the JD as this is the kind of job that can do that to you

(5) As for rust in the Fuel Tank the Fuel Pump sits inside a sort of a Cotter Dam, to help to protect it from getting Rust into the Filter Sock on the Fuel Pump

For anyone else that's reading this, don't ever let the Fuel get so low that the Fuel Pump runs dry, as it can and probably will burn out, as the Fuel Pump is Lubricated by the Fuel and then you may have to Take the Tank out to replace it. Believe me when I tell you that you really do not want to have to do that!

 

This is the Jag under the Ford era... Many things like this connection were changed to streem line production and service. The clip can be removed with a pick and then the lines just pull out. No special tools needed and nothing to insert. It's a tight connection so lots of wiggling will be needed to removed these connection.

Also keep in mind you dont need to remove the lines to get inside the tank. You may want to review this thread. It clearly shows you can get inside the tank without removal of the lines, even under the pressure time constraints.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-tank-236192/

 

Thanks, Orangeblossom, much appreciated.

I think I've come to the conclusion that the pump is fine, and doesn't need to be replaced...and by extension the tank can stay where it is. I drained the tank (using the pump itself) and removed the level sender to look inside. It was perfectly clean.

I'm now turning my attention to other potential issues. I'll replace the filter, though its fairly new, since its a straightforward (and cheap) job.

There's not much else I can check until the problem re-occurs. Currently the car is working as normal.

If/when the same problem can be persuaded to crop up again, I'll check the relay itself, and the signal to it from the ecu, plus verify that I'm getting a signal from the crank sensor and signals to the injectors and coils.

This is the problem with intermittent faults. The chances are that they only show up when you are away from any of your tools. In this case, I was 160 miles from home, and on a fairly tight time budget.

Cheers

Paul

 

Paul,

There are still things you should check before you remove those connectors and disturb that tank. First of all, you should work out if it's fuel or sparks causing the problem.

- Start by confirming that the pump runs when cranking the engine. If it doesn't start exploring that fuel circuit, initially with the relay.
- Then confirm that you have goof fuel delivery to the fuel rail when cranking the engine. If you don't, then check if you good fuel to the filter. If you don't then come further back to the tank now.
- If you have good fuel at the rail, now pull a plug and check that you have sparks when the engine is cranking.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Paul

 

Problem is lack of a test port on the fuel rail...

For some reason, I recall someone reporting something similar which was resolved by replacing the one of the relays that is hidden behind other relays behind the knee bolster on the passengers side. Might want to do a search for that. I can't recall if it was the ECM Controlled Relay, or the EMS Power Relay....or something else...