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Experiencing 2 issues. Reference Tech Bulletin XT310-03, Fuel Tank Removal/Installaton
One is on the evaporative emissions canister purge hose quick release coupling. (Step 21, Ilustration 12) Attached 2 pics. Tried pushing & nothing, Then tried using a narrow plier.
Other is disconnecting the evaporative emissions canister close valve connector. (Step 23, Illustration 14) Attached one pic. Not sure how to remove.
I'll use hose grip pliers on tough quick connects and connectors. On the evap connector, it looks like you would press right above where it gets larger at the base.
Also for the hose quick connect, you can probably use ford a/c or fuel line tools.
95naSTA, those pliers are a clever idea! I agree it should just be a matter of depressing the 'button' and wiggling the hose off. In my experience this style of connector is pretty handy and usually pretty easy to release, though of course everything is more difficult when access makes it hard to get both hand around it. I know the style you mean that needs the Ford tool, but I don't think that's needed on the X-type, at least on my 2002 the fuel pump connectors were the style that did not need the tool (I'm assuming the evap lines would be the same).
Agreed on the electrical connector too, If you can squeeze there, wiggle it, and gently pry at various points around the base with a small flat head screwdriver I suspect it will eventually pop loose (again maybe easier said than done depending on the access). I can't recall if the part you squeeze stays with connector or not on this style, so you may need to squeeze with one hand and pull from the sides and/or pry with the other to get it off.
Got the tank out today. Wx & humid had finally cooled down. A Harley buddy loaned me his motorcycle jack- the perfect tool for lowering a tank with fuel left in it. Attached is Exhibit A. Never did get the button to depress on one of the connectors. Dirt? Dunno. Instead used Mr Dremel & cut the clamp holding the rubber hose. Got a light on the electrical connector & was able to see & squeeze it off.
A tedious process, but so much better IMHO than cutting holes under the rear seat. Ended up cutting the filler hose connected to the fuel tank. Was able to suck about 3 gallons of fuel out of the one side.
Short piece of hose from fuel filler to fuel tank.
Anyone got a source of supply? Udderwise, will go to the local Autozone & find a hose to match it with. Should of spent a little more time, but cut a finger when something slipped. Kinda spoiled the moment. Since started counseling for anger mgt....
White lock ring removal. Noticed a guy used a strap wrench on a 2001 X-type. The rings appear extremely tight.
Lock rings appear extremely tight. Figured I’d defer to the forum so I don’t break anything else. Plan is to inspect & see what happened. If it’s just the pump, will just replace the pump itself & filters, not the entire assy. I have the technology...
I do remember the lock ring being very tight on mine. The old method is using a wooden block and hammer working around the ring to tap it loose. A strap wrench is an interesting idea. I have no idea if either would work here though, but probably no harm in trying if you're careful. I have a universe lock ring wrench and that worked fine but I did have to put the breaker bar on it. Worst case borrow or buy one for those (should be ~$20).
Definitely fine to replace just the pump. I think you can get a cheap kit with the pump and connectors and new filter socks for ~$30 too that's only a moderate headache. I found an assembly on Amazon for $60 so just went that route (I think rock auto had some cheap options too). If you replace the whole assembly, be sure to get one with the correct wiring connector as it did change at some point.
One other heads ups, the big green o-ring under the lock ring is a pain. Once it gets out of its groove it magically expands and is hard or impossible to re-fit. It's also annoyingly expensive from Jaguar. I went ahead and got a new one on hand, but if you want to try to re-use the old one be extremely careful not to disturb it when you remove the lock ring and especially when you're removing and re-inserting the fuel pump.
O-rings from my experience are one time use as they deform. Will make my own if I have to.
Found a piece of 1.25 ID hose for the filler pipe to fuel tank for only $5 from fillernecksupply.com.
Next trick it will be removing two white locking rings. Each ring appears to have a couple little lock tabs on the sides.
Have repaired a number of fuel pumps over the years- but none as difficult to access as this one. S-Type at least has a fuel pump access port under the rear seat.
Car is a 16 year old Sport model with 103k miles. For some reason believe ethanol to be
the culprit- but who knows. Greeks say skata happens.
After removing the pump, plan is to ascertain reason for failure. Plan is to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank.
As for the pump motor. Prices vary. I use the 3 F’s: form, fit, function. X-Type is more or less a Ford in black cat clothing. Should be a lot of aftermarket pumps to choose from.
Spousal unit asked if I had any good reasons for changing the pump myself. Told her yes; about 3,000 reasons.
A motorcycle jack makes it a pleasure to remove the tank- especially if there’s fuel in the tank. Lucked out- maybe 3-4 gallons. Tried 3 different fuel pump tools to remove the white retaining ring. Those suckers were only breaking the tiny tabs off. Went with Plan B: used a Dremel to cut about a 1/4 space in the ring. Ring popped off. Didn’t know what to expect after seeing a number of horror You Tube videos. Expected to see the filters with holes in them & dirt, varnish, & maybe Jimmy Hoffa. Nope. Some fine residue; nothing else. Filters are fine. Hmmm...
Thought the gasket was supposed to be green. Considering reusing ring & securing with a large hose clamp. Bottom of pump fits in here. Dirtiest part of the job. Filter is relatively clean.
Pump itself was easy to remove. The container pump sits in was the dirtiest part I saw. Everything else appears fine.
Considering just replacing the pump with one of these from Amazon:
Fuel Pump E2157 Compatible with Ford F-150 Contour Crown Victoria E-150 E-250 E-350 Jaguar Lincoln Mazda Mercury.
Thought I’d find the reason for the failure- not today. Figured I’d canvass the masses on what they’d do. This could be a simple repair for under maybe $30. Have a lot of free time lately. BTW, I did cut the hose from the filler tube to the tank. It’s 1.25” ID; just under 5” long. Found a replacement at Filler Neck Supply.com for $10.96 (with shipping).
Thoughts, suggestions? Car is 16 years old with 103K miles. Spousal unit keeps encouraging me to get a new one. I like the leaper.
Back in 2003 we had an opportunity to drive an X-Type in Germany/Austria/Italy on the Autobahn & though the Alps sold me on the car. Was just a 2.5L model Hertz rental; reached maybe 130 mph going downhill. Speed-assisted steering made it seem like we were driving at 55 MPH, except for my wife’s white knuckles. When she wasn’t sleeping, was saying something like, “Tony.... slow down!” Was being passed by sports cars doing 180 MPH+. Funny how it makes you think you’re going backwards.
From: That Rectangular Hole in the Consciousness of America
Don't Gamble with a $25 Fuel Pump!
"As for the pump motor. Prices vary. I use the 3 F’s: form, fit, function. X-Type is more or less a Ford in black cat clothing. Should be a lot of aftermarket pumps to choose from.."
With all blood let and effort expended in getting this far with your pump change-out, do you really want to trust that a $25 Chinese knock-off "Universal fit" fuel pump is what will serve you best?
Any good copy writer is going to say how good it is in the description, but I'd trust that cheap pump about as far as I could throw it. I believe the Brits have the saying "Penny Wise, Pound Foolish" just for something like this.
Throw the extra Franklins at it and do it right - get a genuine ORIGINAL OEM to replace it, for chrissakes it's a Jaguar! (and keep the tank topped off enough to always have gasoline as close to 100% submersing the pump as you can, to keep everything cooled and lubed). Driving around with a 1/4 tank or so might have been what cratered the pump to start with. Especially on long trips, where the pump runs continually for hours, keep the tank full enough to cool - if not cover - the pump.
You don't want to do this job ever again, right?
Good luck and have fun, Tony!
PS - the excellent photos and the time you spent preparing your post is very much appreciated, thank you for sharing it with us.
5 Stars for Quality in Posting!
Wrote a long one earlier. Thanks Bruce, but believe me, am not one to take shortcuts or use inferior parts- ever. Will I substitute? Absolutely- but only if the three F’s are met & the new item meets or exceeds the manufacturer & my specs. My specs usually exceed manufacturer specs.
Completed a autopsy today on the old pump. Removed the input plate (bottom)- part of the pump. Between bottom plate & the motor assy is an impeller. Wouldn’t turn. Slipped it off the shaft & the shaft turned. Hello. On the other side of the impeller could see a tiny shinny burr. Scraped it off & reassembled. Put power to it. Before it wouldn’t spin & showed 27.2 ohms. Now it works as designed & resistance is .5 ohms. Not sure why.
Impeller on the left. Bottle plate on right. Bottom removed. Impeller in place
Just before removing the bottom plate. Can see the burr here.
Let me try to recreate the first reply this morning. So Thurs got the pump motor & fuel pump assembly from Amazon. Pump motor wasn’t $25. Was $26.99. lol. Supposed to fit the X-Type according to the fitment chart. So did the pump. Fitment chart lied. Carter fuel pump is no longer listed as Amazon Prime.
New pump came with the fitted rubber base that didn’t seat on the bottom of the pump. No surprise- none of the 3 filters fit properly on it. Resistance was .7 ohms. Old pump was 27.2 ohms.
New Carter fuel pump assy P76600M has the plastic pipe that goes to the sending unit- but that’s all in common with the OEM. The electrical connector on it is a round cannon-type plug; not molded into the top as the OEM. Missing off the top was the index tab that rests on the male part of the retainer ring. Both of them were packed up Thursday afternoon & shipped back. Yesterday ordered new parts via Ft. Myers Jaguar. They have the lowest prices. Leave stuff in your cart & they’ll send an email offering a 5% discount code off shipping the next day. It’s not much.
So why did the pump fail? Suspect the burr & a tiny check valve rubber piece in the bottom of the canister. Tiny rubber I believe might be the result of Ethanol fuel. Being in NJ, have no access to Ethanol-only fuel.
This is how I found it. Can see the fine residue inside the canister. Here’s the disk. Noted the new Carter pump had a similar check valve- screen completely covered.
Yesterday went on a field trip to a you-pull junk yard. Got to use the battery 1/2” Kobalt Max 24-volt impact wrench the spousal unit gave me for my birthday in April. Had charged it & thrown it in the trunk. Still had all green bars after 4 months. Junk yard had no X-Types, but one S-Type. Scored 11 OEM alloy lug nuts for $10. Wrench easily removed rusted nuts & still had all green battery bars. Would of taken all the lugs, bit the HF Pittsburg 19 mm impact socket had split. This sucker has a lot of power. Don’t forget a torque wrench.
Figure I’ll go back to the yard & check out the S-Type fuel pump cover. If it looks like it fits, might cut it out & modify my car. Why? There’s no way I’m ever taking the tank out again. Cutting the access holes to get the pump out while the tank is in place is not something I’d ever try. With the tank out might try to use S-Type cover. Who knows.
Gonna try to send before it goes poof. Oh, would be remiss if I didn’t recognize Chris “Thermo” for his help. Someone else wrote with a link- link wouldn’t work for me- but thanks.
Figure I’ll go back to the yard & check out the S-Type fuel pump cover. If it looks like it fits, might cut it out & modify my car.
Just FYI I don't think that s-type cover will work, at least not easily. It's just a round plug. The hole you need to cut in the x-type isn't flat. I assume that's why they cheeped out on providing an access panel as it would be slightly more complicated/expensive than in most cars that have a flat floor area above the pump. Here's the hole I cut in mine so you can see what it looks like/where it goes (there are some other threads that provide measurements):
Need to look & see if it’s possible. Won’t know till I look. Not happening anytime soon. Why? Chigger bites. While removing the OEM lug nuts, little <expletives deleted> chiggers got under my tee shirt &other places. Still itching.
Does your fuel pump have a top like this? Hard to tell in the pic:
There’s always tradeoffs when designing something. Noticed the Mondeo has the same issue as the X-Type- having to drop the fuel tank or cut an access opening.
Thought was to not just get the cover, but cut out the underside of the S-Type rear seat & make it conform to my car. Nothing easy- makes it more a challenge. Another thought would be making replacement panels for the X-Type before cutting any openings. Would do both sides. You know the difference between “custom” & homemade? Price. Looking at a 2001 S-Type; not sure if it’s gonna be possible. (Not really wanting to go back to the junkyard until it gets cold.)
When finished, has to look good- especially if I wanna post pics. Still considering adding a second fuel pump. This way no openings would be made. Would replace the old pump motor & fix the tiny check valve in the old pump canister. Some “assembly” required. If & when a pump goes bad, just flip a switch. Still on the drawing board. Parts should be here on Monday.
Repaired the old fuel pump yesterday. Using a 9/16 hollow punch, pressed out a replacement check valve disk in the bottom of the fuel pump canister. The original orange disk had a tiny tear & was out of place.
2004 X-Type Fuel Tank Removal Questions
