No need to go completely obsessive about them (unless you really want to). A wire brush, some foamy engine cleaner and a power washer, and a soapy rag to cut thru grease can go a long way to cleaning things up. (I have always liked a clean engine to give me warning on a potential leak issue).
As mentioned above liberal and proper use of anti-size and Loctite go a very long way to making future bolt/ spark plug access/removal a non-life threatening event.

I bought my first Jag in 1992 (had it ever since). I knew nothing about them at the time. About 10 years later I stumbled on to the Kirby book. Obviously an immense help. The Chiltons Repair manual is also a big help. But by far and away the greatest single source of knowledge and assistance is found on this forum. I have never seen anyone ever steered wrong.

PS .... On a side bar note on the '86 I am working on right now. yesterday I bought some 5/16" x 1/2" bolts. I am going to try to counter sink one into a practice air pipe plug rather than order an OEM set of plugs from England - at nearly $150. If it works I will be pulling the air pipes off this car as well although leaving the air pump in place for the belt pulley. I thought about moving the alternator up onto the air pump bracket and eliminating one belt. Has anyone done this? Can it be done without any modifications to the alternator wiring? Thoughts

 

Good afternoon, Gentlemen!
I have reached the point in my water pump replacement/cooling system overhaul where I am ready to clean up the header and catchment tanks.... This of course involves removing the front LH tire. I have removed all the lug nuts, but the wheel seems to be just as firmly attached to the car as before I did!. I have gone under the car and whacked the wheel from behind with a rubber mallet, but still no budge. I have also squirted some Liquid Wrench in around the wheel studs, hoping that would seep behind wheel.... I am guessing some rust corrosion holding the wheel? P.S. there is little or NO rust throughout the car...
Am I missing something??
Help!
Thanks,
John

UPDATE, 30 minutes later...
Well, the penetrant seems to have worked. Rotated the wheel and kicked it numerous times, came free with this gentle persuasion!

 

Use copperease grease on the hub mating surfaces when you refit.

 

HAHAHA, luv your persuasion method. I would do the same.

THAT is the thinking of a TRUE Jaguar caretaker.

You, sir. will go far in Jag V12 ownership.

 

Good evening, Gentlemen! Just a little update, mostly....I am plugging away at the water pump project. Today I replaced the timing cover plug, thanks to Rescue911 who provided the info for the expansion plug:
Dorman - Autograde 570-005.1... If you go to NAPA, ask for part #6004003. Amazon link says currently unavailable. Cost me $4.60 with tax.

From NAPA
I soaked the cross-pipe in Phosphoric acid as Greg suggested, it cleaned up the corrosion pretty well. Cleaned, sanded, primed and painted. Same with header tank.

Ready for re-assembly!
I was prepping to do the water pump tomorrow, and I noticed that there is a gasket between the two castings, but I am assuming I do not need gasket sealer here? I do not see any way to separate the two halves of the unit (there is maybe a 1/16" gap?) Not enough room for any small brush with gasket sealer... I am guessing Grant might say a small bead of red RTV sealant? Not sure at all if there is enough room to even do that.... I am delaying the water pump install until I am confident about that front gasket in the pump.

Pump in two pieces, gasket fitted between

Moving steadily towards being back on the road! Thermostats tomorrow, at least. Maybe the water pump too!

Thanks all for the encouragement!
John

 

Nope.

Many water pumps are like that, and the "spin" was that the gaskets were impregnated with goo, that releases when hot coolant/water got there. Hence reusing a s/hand pump is flawed, and "may" leak at that joint.

Never verified it, much better things to do with my time, then and now.

You are moving forward well.

 

Good morning, everyone! Just a quick update on my progress to date....

Atmospheric tank, cleaned out (was very clean), new braided clear hose, new grommet to discharge hose.



Prepped and ready- I made a couple of "studs" to help with gasket alignment.


All bolts cleaned up, coated with anti-seize on the barrels, and blue Loctite at the tip of the threads. Picture is immediately pre-clean



Water pump and thermostats installed, cross-pipe installed.

I was anticipating a little more difficulty with installing the cross-pipe, but with guidance from G&G Gurus, Inc. and a little silicone lube, it was not too bad. Now I am working on getting the fan belts back on, and continuing re-assembly! I am sure glad I took notes and lots of pictures, but I can see that I could/should have done more. What seems obvious when taking apart is not necessarily so obvious on re-assembly... So far, so good!!
John

 

looks a very good job, John. Congratulations.

 

Well done also John.

Simple cars these V12's, I say it again.

 

Good news update on the project!
I finished putting everything back together last night, and filled with coolant and bled system per instructions from Greg this morning. Car ran well, with no leaks! I took it on a 36 mile drive at 60 mph, no problems except some gauge reading errors.... My temperature never got past about one third to halfway up from "Cold" to "Normal", this is unusual for my car as it normally sits right at or slightly under "N". Second gauge reading issue is fuel level, which started out on this drive a ZERO. I just filled it up prior to the leak which prompted this whole project, so the gauge would normally be reading 3/4 (that's as high as it ever gets, trying to work up the courage to clean up contacts per wonderful write-up with pictures from Greg). Fuel gauge started moving a short time into drive, but readings fluctuated. Made it just about to "half" several times, but really hung around 1/4 mark. Definitely did NOT remain at a steady reading for any long length of time. Oil pressure seemed higher than usual, above 50 (once warmed up, I seem to run a little under 50 on the highway). Voltmeter seemed to be OK, sitting about right in the middle, normal for me. My auxiliary fan never came on, it mostly does when I park the car, but it is cool today at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. I will have to try turning on AC switch to force it to come on? My AC is disconnected, so not sure of how this might work..... I double-checked and confirmed that I at least attached the wires back to the thermostatic switch.... Could low temp readings due to faulty ground affect this system? (I am kind of thinking "no", that the thermostatic switch would turn the electric fan on according to it's OWN readings of coolant temp)

I am assuming (speculating?) that I have a ground issue, as I have not done anything directly related to the gauges aside from possibly disturbing the grounds at the radiator top rail. Knowing that grounding is critical, I carefully cleaned up the two grounding points on the top rail... Here is perhaps where the issue might be? I smeared some dielectric grease all over the area prior to re-assembly. I have never had electrical issues using the DC-4 (Dow Corning) Dielectric grease previously.... another possible issue is that I probably applied some anti-seize to the threads on the grounding bolts, maybe a boo-boo? Will the anti-seize affect electrical grounding?

Anyway, the car is back up and running, and I am ECSTATIC.

Another question I have, mostly for Grant and Greg is how will I receive my Badge of Honour for completing this project?????

John

 

Grant does a nice line in certificates!
MANY congratulations John. A real achievement!