XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Air Pump Removal

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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 06:16 PM
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Default Air Pump Removal

Hi All,

I've been gone for a while but am glad to be back.
After several other issues and projects forced me to step aside on the '87 Jag for quite a while I am back at it.

Here is the situation. I had the car nearly completely fixed some time ago. Everything was coming along beautifully. The only two thing not working were the A/C and the cruise control. Then out of the blue the tach and later the speedO started bouncing all over the gauge. Research indicated it was likely a bad transducer and/or bad contacts at the wiring harnesses. I took the dash apart and it now waits a full cleaning. Any other thoughts on what may be causing those issues?

I also decided to clean up the appearance of the engine by eliminating the smog air induction piping and replaced all the plugs with a factory style kit from England. I also eliminated the anti-smog air pump and bought an Idler pully assembly from England as well. Today I took off the air pump and the lower bracket. I still have to figure out how to remove all the piping on the right side of the motor going back to the 'T" splitter at the back of the block. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 11:15 PM
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The pipe is a bitch to get out, most leave it in unless your pulling the engine etc.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by VancouverXJ6
The pipe is a bitch to get out, most leave it in unless your pulling the engine etc.
+1


Cheers
DD
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 07:54 AM
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OK, Looks like the pipe is staying in. I will look for a rubber plug to close off the return pipe opening on the right side air cleaner and a rubber cap on the nipple that a hose goes to some kind of valve that mounted right behind the air pump. Getting rid of all that plumping really cleans up the appearance of the engine. I can now see the alternator.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 05:58 PM
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Today I got the rest of the valve assembly out and installed the idler pulley.
Question: Do I need a different belt now that I have the air pump off the car and am using the idler assembly? The belt that was on there is never going to fit - too short even with the idler adjustment arm all the way in. Or have I done something wrong?

I'll try to get the pictures I took uploaded for a visual.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2019 | 10:46 PM
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You may have it installed backwards or something. It should use the same belt.

I replaced my air pump with the same idler pulley that came from England as well, and the same belt worked fine for me.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 05:12 PM
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Idler pulley
 
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Old Apr 29, 2019 | 05:20 PM
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Above and attached a pic's of the idler pulley. The lower bracket has the two bolts on the forward holes and the single bolt on the back lower position. All four were used on the air pump racket.
 
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Old May 20, 2019 | 04:32 AM
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Default Smog removal

Where did you get the factory style plug kit you used when you removed the smog system. Also , who did you order the idler pully from? I would like to clean up my engine compartment too.

Originally Posted by BradsCat
Hi All,

I've been gone for a while but am glad to be back.
After several other issues and projects forced me to step aside on the '87 Jag for quite a while I am back at it.

Here is the situation. I had the car nearly completely fixed some time ago. Everything was coming along beautifully. The only two thing not working were the A/C and the cruise control. Then out of the blue the tach and later the speedO started bouncing all over the gauge. Research indicated it was likely a bad transducer and/or bad contacts at the wiring harnesses. I took the dash apart and it now waits a full cleaning. Any other thoughts on what may be causing those issues?

I also decided to clean up the appearance of the engine by eliminating the smog air induction piping and replaced all the plugs with a factory style kit from England. I also eliminated the anti-smog air pump and bought an Idler pully assembly from England as well. Today I took off the air pump and the lower bracket. I still have to figure out how to remove all the piping on the right side of the motor going back to the 'T" splitter at the back of the block. Any suggestions?
 
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