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I haven’t driven my since February and everything seemed well taking her out of the garage, to my surprise even the A/C was cool in the horrid 100 degree weather, but suddenly the car would need t shift and smoke was blowing . Transmission Fluid everywhere.....fortunately I was close to a auto parts store and managed to fix the problem: what happened is that the high pressure transmission hose has been “fixed” with a regular hose with clamps. It slips out and there is fluid everywhere. This is the second time this has happened to me with a transmission pressure hose fixed like this. I need to have a hose costume made since I think the parts are not available- no matter the cost. Otherwise I can’t really drive the car at all since I don’t feel like it’s safe to.
Has anyone had one of these costum made?
How hard is it to replace these?
Can you post pictures of the problem? I use farm machinery grade clamps/fittings etc to *cough* fix hydraulic lines on vehicles when replacing..say..a power steering line is just too much of a gongshow, depending on the problem I might have a real clamp for it rated for 1750psi or something like that.
Thanks for your reply — I need the hoses pictured below. I foolishly paid a mechanic to fix these with hose and clamps which have now failed twice. I am lucky that I have been able to reinsert the hose, add an additional clamp, put fluid and continue driving on two ocassions now. I hope my transmission isn’t damaged since both times this has happened I only realize when it refuses to continue shifting after all the fluid has left the car—it seems ok after a refill for now- but nevertheless, I know that just slipping a hose and clamps works for a lot of people, but mine keeps on slipping out at the most inoportune moments for me. I am ashamed that I paid anyone over 2 dollars to fix these hoses in that way.
Thanks for you replies. Can the hose still be fixed even if the mechanic who “fixed” them previously already cut the original leaking parts of and cut the hose to insert the regular hose and clamp ?
Those gearbox cooler lines are not really high pressure. They are just moving fluid from the gearbox, through the cooler and back to the gearbox. There is some pressure from restrictions in the cooler but not in the order of hundreds of PSI. I would guess 10 to 20 PSI?
You might try to 'flare' the tubing or get some 'barbed' fittings??
Those gearbox cooler lines are not really high pressure. They are just moving fluid from the gearbox, through the cooler and back to the gearbox. There is some pressure from restrictions in the cooler but not in the order of hundreds of PSI. I would guess 10 to 20 PSI?
You might try to 'flare' the tubing or get some 'barbed' fittings??
bob
thanks for your reply. I have seen videos on flaring the tubes and there are videos out there , but TBH, I am scared of taking that chance wainting for the lines to slip and drain the all the fluid again. Do you know for a fact that the pressure is low? Just asking because the transmission fluid seemed to be coming out with force.
Mark, on both of my XJS' I had to have these hoses replaced because they start leaking at the metal to hose pressure fittings. I had mine done at least 6-7 years ago and at that time one of the hoses was available aftermarket and the other hose I had to have made on both cars. It is a bit of a challenge getting both hoses replaced when you are working on ramps on the ground so might be worth having a transmission shop pull the two lines and send them out to have new ones made.
Chances are your transmission is fine since it was shut down quickly when it started shifting odd etc. Let me know if you have any other questions on my experience getting these replaced.
Same thing happened to me on the highway. Saw smoke at the back of the car After pulling off and getting a tow to a shop, I researched the availability of the two hoses after it was found that the return hose had chafed on the chassis, according to the tech. He said the transmission mount was so loose a sloppy that it allowed the transmission to move up and down causing the chafing. Apparently the return hose is routed over the top of the tranny so that they both run on the passenger (RH) side of the engine to the radiator. If it is like most cooler installs, the pressure hose will enter the top of the radiator and the cooled fluid will exit the bottom.
I know the pressure hose is still available if that is the one you have that is faulty. My return hose is unfortunately not available anymore so I have to try to fix it using a bead maker on the end of the cut off swaged fittings. That's the only way to keep the hose from slipping off, or you will always be thinking about it every time you drive.
Here is a pic of your pressure hose item #1 in your parts illustration. Here is a pic of the hose that is still available. It is the only hose of the two that is still available $175.00
Mark, on both of my XJS' I had to have these hoses replaced because they start leaking at the metal to hose pressure fittings. I had mine done at least 6-7 years ago and at that time one of the hoses was available aftermarket and the other hose I had to have made on both cars. It is a bit of a challenge getting both hoses replaced when you are working on ramps on the ground so might be worth having a transmission shop pull the two lines and send them out to have new ones made.
Chances are your transmission is fine since it was shut down quickly when it started shifting odd etc. Let me know if you have any other questions on my experience getting these replaced.
Same thing happened to me on the highway. Saw smoke at the back of the car After pulling off and getting a tow to a shop, I researched the availability of the two hoses after it was found that the return hose had chafed on the chassis, according to the tech. He said the transmission mount was so loose a sloppy that it allowed the transmission to move up and down causing the chafing. Apparently the return hose is routed over the top of the tranny so that they both run on the passenger (RH) side of the engine to the radiator. If it is like most cooler installs, the pressure hose will enter the top of the radiator and the cooled fluid will exit the bottom.
I know the pressure hose is still available if that is the one you have that is faulty. My return hose is unfortunately not available anymore so I have to try to fix it using a bead maker on the end of the cut off swaged fittings. That's the only way to keep the hose from slipping off, or you will always be thinking about it every time you drive.
Here is a pic of your pressure hose item #1 in your parts illustration. Here is a pic of the hose that is still available. It is the only hose of the two that is still available $175.00
I’m assuming the hose went bad where the rubber was crimped onto the metal part?
Vee, No my problem hose was the return hose, not the pressure hose as shown. The problem was chafing on the chassis somewhere due to the tranny rear moving around from worn mounts.
That tool is for 3/16" brake lines. Just putting a BULGE at the end of the tubing will keep the hose from becoming disconnected.
bob
Actually, there is already a built in bulge or "bead" on the metal part of the line close to the swaged portion of the line. Use a mini cut-off wheel to cut that portion off being careful to cut it off just before the bead. If you do cut too far back and take off the bead, you'll have just straight pipe, so you can buy a bead maker for metal lines. Just look up bead making tool for metal lines. Doing that should prevent the hose from trying to slip off.
AJ16 Transmission high pressure hoses
