Well I fired her over for a second time this week I have too play with the throttle too get her rolling doesn't like too idle . Thinking she would clean out I ran her up too 1500/2000 by ear for about all of 10 seconds I immediately shut her down when I noticed she was glowing pretty good . Im currently cleaning the swirl tank anything else causing my issues? Ran bmfine before she decided too pop and snort then shut off last year

 

I'm assuming your car is an '88 which would mean your car has the old style Lucas ignition but this definitely sounds like a marelli failure.

Do you know what ignition system you have? One HT lead going to the center of the dist. is lucas and two HT leads going to the center of the dist. is marelli.

Are you familiar with the Marelli ignition issue?

 

Well ok,


1) which distributor do you have...?
Marrelli (hint: two coils)
lucas (hint one coil)


2) if Marrelli
check to see if bank B is getting spark...
if Lucas...
make sure you do not have an injector on that bank stuck OPEN


GB!

 

Careful! The Lucas ignition cars also had two coils so that can't be used as an identifier!


Marelli cars had the two ignition modules above the radiator....that's an instantaneous identifier. Also, Marelli distributors lacked the vacuum advance cannister.


Or......

Marelli ignition was fitted beginning with VIN 156xxx (there's some conflicting info on the exact car number). If the VIN is well after '156xxx' then Marelli can be assumed.

Cheers
DD

 

I have a two coil setup on her . I was planning on swapping it out eventually . How would I go above checking for an open injector?

 

It is the lucas setup on her its an 88 made in june . She was running fine idling it popped and stumbled then shut off last year

 

If a cat is glowing red, then it is because it is burning raw fuel. This is almost certainly because one or more injectors are staying open.

This in turn is either because one is jammed open by crud (could be as you have not yet cleaned out the fuel delivery system) or, and just a likely, the injector harness is brittle/worn somewhere and is shorting to earth. If this happens at least three injectors stay open.

Take a careful look at the injector harness, and if you find brittle places or actual breaks in the insulation, renewing it is a must.

Greg

 

As above.

Also the LH FPR may have a ruptured diaphragm that will also suck raw fuel into the LH side of the engine.

If it were mine, and its NOT, I would be renewing the EFI loom, flushing the fuel supply and return lines a few times, just to be sure. New spark plugs (properly gapped). Test the 2 FPR's. Even remove the RH FPR (well documented in here on that). New fuel filter. New EFI hoses, ALL OF THEM.

Injectors cleaned whilst the hoses etc are off for renewing is up to you, and also based on the amount of crud you will find in the main and sump tanks. The time this thing has stood is certainly the brick wall you are now up against.

Then you are pretty well back to basics without the "grazing" effect of doing one thing at a time, and being forever at it.

 

Im doing the swirl tank as of now an big surprise shes a wee bit nasty . If I were too put a mixture of 50/50 kersone n marvel oil in the tank too let it flush the injectors this wouldn't hurt anything right? I've done it with hundreds of other cars but this is a jaguar we are talking about not taking any chances. I plan on upgrading and getting away from the entire lucas computer and distributor so re building fuel lines is close too pointless it just needs too run so it can be moved in and out of the garage until I have all the parts ready too go in.

 

At the very least completely clean out the swirl tank and change the filter in it and also change the main filter. Before installing the new filter blow out the fuel line from the filter exit to the engine bay regulator (disconnect the fuel line here) with compressed air.

If you are not changing the injectors, then ensuring they are working properly and not stuck open by crud seems worth doing now. Having cleaned everything, running some cleaner through must be a good idea. A substitute for cleaning, it is not. The Lucas system is actually very good and reliable, the reason your car is not running is pretty simple to find, as various posts have shown. A day at most would do it. Obviously up to you, but having a car running properly before you start changing systems makes sense to me, as if not, you never know whether your new setup is not working or if there are residual problems from before.

Greg

 

I'll have too go pick up my compressor from the house . She was running perfect last year wouldn't rev higher than 3 without effort so I'm pretty sure the secondary coils burnt out. Good spark on both banks still. I'll run by the parts store in an hour or two I know the lucas is pretty reliable for the most part I'm just going too swap her out in a couple months its 30 years old cracked wires an someone elses hands have already been in here. Less headaches too swap it out because later down the road there will be modifications and eventually a rebuild of the motor .

 

Finally cleaned out the tank surprisingly there was barely anything in there.

 

Flushed the lines going too look over the injectors tomorrow too see what exactly is going down in there . What is this I hear of a fpr delete on the a bank?

 

My '76 runs only the left hand regulator with no problems. I cannot figure out what the right hand one was for since the pressure needs to be regulated beyond the injectors, not before.

 

The original PreHE engine had 2 fuel rails, and each rail had an FPR, and the return hoses were siamesed.

Complaints, common sense, saw many of them fitted with the HE rail, and a single FPR on the LH side only.

My HE runs one FPR (a PreHE unit) on the LH side only, and has done so for 13 years.

 

I took out the multi meter tonight I did get continuity on the ine plug for the injector.