Bezel Replacement for the Three Console Switches
Hello ALL. Subject: 1996 XJS
The bezel for the windows and top switches just suddenly broke. It seems this is fairly common (?) So I ordered a new bezel from Welsh. The three switches themselves all work good.I also located an old Thread form this Forum from 2014 that was very helpful. I can pull up the switches, connectors, and wires up out of the hole just enough to disconnect each switch.
It appears that on each switch itself there are two clips, one on both the top and bottom of each switch that hold the switch firmly to the connector. Is that correct ? Do these two clips need to be depressed while pulling on the switch to disconnect it ? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right LOL Thanks for any assistance.
The bezel for the windows and top switches just suddenly broke. It seems this is fairly common (?) So I ordered a new bezel from Welsh. The three switches themselves all work good.I also located an old Thread form this Forum from 2014 that was very helpful. I can pull up the switches, connectors, and wires up out of the hole just enough to disconnect each switch.
It appears that on each switch itself there are two clips, one on both the top and bottom of each switch that hold the switch firmly to the connector. Is that correct ? Do these two clips need to be depressed while pulling on the switch to disconnect it ? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right LOL Thanks for any assistance.
Are your switches the ones with metal tabs or plastic?
The metal ones will snap in and squeeze out fairly reliably.
The plastic ones, I find, need to be heated up, like with a hairdryer so it gets nice and soft to get in. I haven’t removed one yet.
The metal ones will snap in and squeeze out fairly reliably.
The plastic ones, I find, need to be heated up, like with a hairdryer so it gets nice and soft to get in. I haven’t removed one yet.
rickr,
I can't remember exactly which way to press the clips, but I've had my skislope off a number of times in the last few years and had that bezel out and disconnected switches etc. You must remove the ski slope to remove the bezel and the switches as the clips will just break otherwise as you may have found.
Likewise, when you refit the bezel, I would fit the bezel in the removed ski slope, then refit the switches. If you fit the switches first, you're then likley to break the tangs on the new bezel surround when you fit the whole assembly into the ski slope as it will be very inflexible.
Good luck
Paul
I can't remember exactly which way to press the clips, but I've had my skislope off a number of times in the last few years and had that bezel out and disconnected switches etc. You must remove the ski slope to remove the bezel and the switches as the clips will just break otherwise as you may have found.
Likewise, when you refit the bezel, I would fit the bezel in the removed ski slope, then refit the switches. If you fit the switches first, you're then likley to break the tangs on the new bezel surround when you fit the whole assembly into the ski slope as it will be very inflexible.
Good luck
Paul
Paul: THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!! for your reply. Just the bezel itself turned up broke one day. The switches themselves all work fine. I did notice that there really is not enough length of wires to pull the switches up through the ski slope to disconnect the switches from the connectors. Another 6 inches or so would have made a difference. LOL I have not attempted to fix this yet. So your email is very timely.
If I may indulge You a little further: What is the best procedure for removing the ski slope itself ?
Again, thanks so much.
Rick
If I may indulge You a little further: What is the best procedure for removing the ski slope itself ?
Again, thanks so much.
Rick
Unless you have the aftermarket skislope with cupholders. It ends up being to thick anyways.
Remove the exposed screw when you removed the armrest cubby. Also remove the knob from the shifter. Place the emergency brake on, in case you need to shift the shift lever into D to get the skislope on/off
Pick up the end high enough to shove your hand in there.
Disconnect the three switch harnesses from the window/convertible top switches, allowing you to raise the skislope higher.
Disconnect the lighter and the cruise control switch.
You should now be able to pull the slope out.
Installation is the frustrasting reverse. You'll be doing a lot by feel. I'd label the three switches somehow so you know which is which.
Remove the exposed screw when you removed the armrest cubby. Also remove the knob from the shifter. Place the emergency brake on, in case you need to shift the shift lever into D to get the skislope on/off
Pick up the end high enough to shove your hand in there.
Disconnect the three switch harnesses from the window/convertible top switches, allowing you to raise the skislope higher.
Disconnect the lighter and the cruise control switch.
You should now be able to pull the slope out.
Installation is the frustrasting reverse. You'll be doing a lot by feel. I'd label the three switches somehow so you know which is which.
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UPDATE: Finished installing the new bezel. That job went much easier than I thought. Talking my time, I was done in less than 1 hour. I just followed the recommendations from other Forum members posted above. THANK YOU ALL !!! Shows you how valuable a Forum like this can be. I took the liberty of applying electrical parts cleaner to all switches before re-connecting. Again, thanks for the assistance.
So, what's next : I'm fortunate to have a good, independent European repair/service shop near me. And they are very familiar with the XJS. I took the Jag to the shop for a routine engine oil and filter change and grease job. While the car was up on a lift, I ask the Tech to give a general look under and see if he notices anything suspicious Generally, all was dry and looked good - except: The rubber bushings for the front trailing arms are just starting to crack and rot. The car only has 54,000 miles on her and is always garaged and never driven in inclement weather. But the seals are also 27 years old. DARN. I don't mind working from the top of vehicles. But at 73 I don't like crawling under any more. And I'm especially not going to get under the car with 3-lb, sledge hammers and pickle forks. LOL So, I asked the shop for an estimate. I know this is a time consuming job. They quoted me - including the front end alignment - for $2,300.00USD. Hmmmm. That sounds a bit high to me. But maybe not for an XJS. What do you folks think ?
Of course, the job will need to be done. The new tires have only about 500 miles on them and I don't want them to start prematurely wearing. Ahhhh... the joys of owning a classic Jaguar. I'll take the Jag back to the shop as soon as I get enough alcohol in me to have the courage. LOL
Rick .
So, what's next : I'm fortunate to have a good, independent European repair/service shop near me. And they are very familiar with the XJS. I took the Jag to the shop for a routine engine oil and filter change and grease job. While the car was up on a lift, I ask the Tech to give a general look under and see if he notices anything suspicious Generally, all was dry and looked good - except: The rubber bushings for the front trailing arms are just starting to crack and rot. The car only has 54,000 miles on her and is always garaged and never driven in inclement weather. But the seals are also 27 years old. DARN. I don't mind working from the top of vehicles. But at 73 I don't like crawling under any more. And I'm especially not going to get under the car with 3-lb, sledge hammers and pickle forks. LOL So, I asked the shop for an estimate. I know this is a time consuming job. They quoted me - including the front end alignment - for $2,300.00USD. Hmmmm. That sounds a bit high to me. But maybe not for an XJS. What do you folks think ?
Of course, the job will need to be done. The new tires have only about 500 miles on them and I don't want them to start prematurely wearing. Ahhhh... the joys of owning a classic Jaguar. I'll take the Jag back to the shop as soon as I get enough alcohol in me to have the courage. LOL
Rick .
That's a lot of money...for not a lot of work, but I believe your car will require an alignment, and some probable unusual shim movement to align the car properly. I'm hoping all of that was included in your estimate. I'm not 100% sure on the need for an alignment.
I've done the trailing arms, and it's really not that bad. I see your age, but if you're willing, here's what you're looking at.
The Jaguar Dealer is probably the best place to get the two bushings you'll need for each side. You don't want to go aftermarket here, you want Metalastic bushings, and JDHT is showing them available and in stock.
1. MHC3170AA is 38 GBP x2
2. MHC3160AA is 31 GBP x2
Everything else can be reused, except maybe the arms themselves? Perhaps the shop thinks they are rusted up and need replacement? These also happen to be in stock!
3. MHC3155AA is 291 GBP x2
All of this, shipped will certainly be less than $1,000. Labor does not justify the cost here.
The one challenge you will run into, is that you'll need access to 20 ton press to get the old bushings out, and the new bushings in. No way around that. (that I know of) But even if you took that to any shop, I doubt they would charge you more than one hour of labor. (there is a specific way to align the bushings when they are pressed in)
If you are willing at all to do this work, it is relatively straightforward. The cost savings seems to be a four digit number, unless they are doing even more than I suspect?
I've done the trailing arms, and it's really not that bad. I see your age, but if you're willing, here's what you're looking at.
The Jaguar Dealer is probably the best place to get the two bushings you'll need for each side. You don't want to go aftermarket here, you want Metalastic bushings, and JDHT is showing them available and in stock.
1. MHC3170AA is 38 GBP x2
2. MHC3160AA is 31 GBP x2
Everything else can be reused, except maybe the arms themselves? Perhaps the shop thinks they are rusted up and need replacement? These also happen to be in stock!
3. MHC3155AA is 291 GBP x2
All of this, shipped will certainly be less than $1,000. Labor does not justify the cost here.
The one challenge you will run into, is that you'll need access to 20 ton press to get the old bushings out, and the new bushings in. No way around that. (that I know of) But even if you took that to any shop, I doubt they would charge you more than one hour of labor. (there is a specific way to align the bushings when they are pressed in)
If you are willing at all to do this work, it is relatively straightforward. The cost savings seems to be a four digit number, unless they are doing even more than I suspect?
Last edited by Vee; Aug 11, 2023 at 11:02 AM.
Vee: Thanks so much for your detailed email. Especially the OEM part numbers. Much appreciate it. Wherever I decide to have the repair done, I can insist they use genuine OEM parts, in this case. The price quoted me did include the front end alignment. And, I know (thanks to this Forum again) that aligning the XJS is not just aligning one side with the other. Shims, etc. I mentioned this to them and they said they are aware of this. And they know the correct way to approach aligning the front end. One of the Techs worked for Jaguar back in 1997 and earlier. This shop has always been both good and reasonable. I suspect their quote to me included new trailing arms themselves, if needed. Otherwise, I would turn it down.
Just yesterday, I found a shop who says they specialize in Jaguar - only. Hmmmm. Never knew they were there. And very close to me. I'll have them provide an estimate. Again, thanks for your help.
Rick
Just yesterday, I found a shop who says they specialize in Jaguar - only. Hmmmm. Never knew they were there. And very close to me. I'll have them provide an estimate. Again, thanks for your help.
Rick
Well, I called 4 places that I would trust doing the work that are familiar with the XJS. There was no more than $100.00 difference between them. So I guess it is what it is. I'll take it back to my usual shop. They have done more serious work than this on my Jag, and all has turned out well. I didn't even try the Dealership. I know they would likely be double the cost. And their younger Tech's only seem to be familiar with the later cars. Thanks again for providing those part numbers. I'll make sure they use OEM parts for those bushings.
Rick
Rick
I was getting the tread cupping typical of mis-alignment on the tires on my 94.
While I was due for new tires I brought the car to a local alignment shop.
They did the whole job while I waited and it didn't cost me more than a few hundred bucks.
No more cupping and I was happy with the work.
While I was due for new tires I brought the car to a local alignment shop.
They did the whole job while I waited and it didn't cost me more than a few hundred bucks.
No more cupping and I was happy with the work.
So, a little more information. I happened across Moss Motors and they can order both trailing arms with bushings already installed for $526.00USD. And they're OEM parts. With the bushings already in the new arms It doesn't appear to be that big of job for an experienced technician and the car on a rack. They also want another 190.00USD for a front-end alignment. I didn't know you would need a front end alignment if replacing parts on the rear of the car. But since it's considered major suspension components, maybe they need to check the toe-in (?). It just seems that there is not an extra $1,300.00 in labor ??
Rick
Rick
Rick,
I don't know your driving style but you can firm up the rear axle a touch by fitting the bushes turned by 90 degrees to put the air gaps at the sides rather than in the fore / aft location. This was done on the XJR-S model. I've done that to my car.
If you're looking for further feedback, you probably want to start a separate thread now as the title is somewhat misleading now.
Cheers
Paul
I don't know your driving style but you can firm up the rear axle a touch by fitting the bushes turned by 90 degrees to put the air gaps at the sides rather than in the fore / aft location. This was done on the XJR-S model. I've done that to my car.
If you're looking for further feedback, you probably want to start a separate thread now as the title is somewhat misleading now.
Cheers
Paul
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