who has done what?

what are the best options?

which makes the most power?

Any other information?

pistons rods ect used?

building a 5.3 he to maximum power goal around 415ish hp.

ANY input is very appreciated

 

Both for a 5.3, but I would start with a 6 liter engine, and then bore it if I was looking for more capacity...

Dave

 

the problem is you cant find an 6l v12s areound me. ANY not even for the right price

 

i,personaly dont like regound crankshafts, for hi-performance duty,. but you have to make your own choice!

when a shaft journal has had a spun bearing,it does it by overheating,usually lack of oil, the heat softens the metal, and any type of chemical hardening has been stripped away,

quite often the shaft will distort and be bent/twisted from heat. and possible crack formations.

and the Chevy GM rod idea started around 1977 with Bob Tullius GP 44, Trans Am cars,
mainly because Jag rods were heavier than chevs, weak in the rod bolts, plus there already was plenty of chev stuff out, like the father of H-beam race con rods,(CARRILLO).

and i cant see building a true performance engine using an off the shelf piston!
i believe a good race engine should have a forged piston,custom made.

my experience,when you save money in engine rebuild, you will find the weak link at some point. (save money now,, spend money later).

now lets think out of the box for a second,, FORGED ALUMINUM CON RODS,pinned bearings(no spin), super strong bolts with dowels,cap to rod.

they can be had CHEAP because they are CHEVY,(thank heaven for GM-Chevy stuff,i would not have been able to build my car,without some GM parts,lots of it).

and like warrjon says,think it thru, search the net! Total seal rings!!!

 

what size chevy rod do you need? thats the question still wondering on

 

well; 1st off a standard 350 chv. are 5.7" center to center.

next a common length for race work is the 6" C/C.

but some have gone longer,like 6.1", but you start to get into some fancy piston pin hites.

of course if you are going for custom P. you can specify what you need, deffinatly talk to an engineer at the manufac. and explain what your lookinf for, i have sent a single CLEAN piston out and then talked with them(thats back in the day when we used telephones for communications), suppose Emails can help??

i have to ask,is your engine pre-HE or regular HE (year),

pre dont have enough squish/swirl, HE has to much of same! you could modify the chamber in HE to reduce some, or for pre use a piston made to order.

pre breathes better at hi-rpm(good for 7000), HE starts losing around 5000, torque falls off quicker!

and go past looking for more HP, start exploring hi-midrange torque,.

when the other guy is beside you and you beep 3 times, go for the torque,if you get ahead 1st, he is gonna need a lot to pass you, usually run outta road, or traffic piles up, and closing fast. HEHE how do i know???

 

be aware you will have to narrow the big end of the chev. rod, but there are thousands of bearings that will fit.

couple pix of Jag 5.3 archives piston tops. and a pre port shape for chamber area.

upload failed,, darn wish i knew more about computors.

 

OOPS! i forgot you aint gonna race it!/?

 

im going for an aggressive street car, occational track days, mostly making mustangs run with their tails between their legs. i found a guy who built a 7.4 ltr v12 and i emailed him asking for his specs. (in other post) im looking to use 96mm liners.

Im at the point of GO BIG or GO home. its an HE engine. which is why im looking for liters rather than valves cams and such. plus im sure we all know the expression "nos/vtec/turbos/superchargers/ect are for F*gs i have cubic inches"

by the way, what is te size of the jagaur rod center to center?

 

Builiding the 7.4 Litre Stroker Engine

 

alright guys, ive got some info. jaguar rods are 6in rods. so im going to stroke a 1/4in requiring 5 & 3/4 in rods. with 2.0 journals. then use oversized liners, or bored out cylenders. im leaning towards liners. but with the liners i can then use chevy 307 pistons. allowing me to get flattop 307 forged pistons to use with my chevy rods (parts will fit both chevy) on my crank giving me 6mm of bore, and 1/4 in of stroke whatever that is in liters.

 

About 5.96" from memory, so a 6.0" chevy would be ok I have looked at 6.1" but I think it will put pin a little too high and encroach on the rings

 

DON'T use shorter rods this will increase the side loading on the piston, use 6.0" rods and modify the piston pin height.

A set of liners will run to somewhere around $1000-1200

 

Just been thinking if you spun a bearing it was most likely due to oil starvation a common problem with the V12, read Ian's website there is a post there where he made a DIY sump baffle to fix this problem

 

I had good oil pressure when it spun. Also has anyone contacted rob beere racing because im still waiting to hear back from him

 

Try ringing him. Emails can go unanswered for a time at RBR!

Greg

 

Yeah well i Live in a different continent than him! Ill see if i can with my fathers buisness cell tomorrow

 

Although I like the idea of a bumpity Jag V12, you will be doing a lot of work to increase capacity and then make it a driavable street car. If you want to blow the doors off of some street racers, I would suggest putting your money towards a 5-6 speed instead and really transform the car.

If it's power you want you may consider going forced induction with twin SC or twin turbos and swapping in some of the earlier style lower compression pistons 7:1, 7.5:1, 8:1, etc. This would allow you to run anywhere from 8-20 pounds of boost and be a real hoot plus maintain drivability.

Have fun with it

 

I already have a 5 speed conversion so im one step ahead of you!