hi all, I've dropped the finaldrive out for pads, rotors and seals and I'm wondering if I have to rewired the bolt heads upon reassembly - how is this done? should I bother? is Loctite a modern alternative?


Cheers

 

I have used Loctite Nut Lock on all and any bolts that were once wired on all my Jags for as long as I can remember.

I always clean the bolt/nut/thread with p/pack carby cleaner prior to any application, and once tightened to the required torque, I NEVER go back "just to check it" as that will break the Loctite seal.

Never lost anything as yet.

 

Hoppy,

Jaguar changed from wire-locked bolts to loctite-type sealing on a number of applications. The rear caliper bolts on my car use a thread coating to lock then rather than wire.

If you do use thread sealer rather than wire, do make sure you torque them properly.

Paul

 

I fully lock wired mine when I did it, just because there were holes there to do it and I had a roll of stainless .75mm wire. APITA job ,but looked good when finished. When the next person removes the cradle they will curse me as I spent a long time twisting the wire to get a nice finish.
Loctite would be much faster and easier. I have been using it for years on heavy duty manufacturing machinery and never lost a bolt.

+1 on that Grant

 

The wire is cheap enough and I just like to put things back the way they were. You just have to study the wiring before you cut it off so you correct when you replace it.

I have loctite laying around, so I usually use it on important parts that need it anyway.

If you don't want to do it, it is perfectly fine to use the correct type of loctite instead.

 

Cool, thanks for replies, will be onto Loctite as everything else is a big enough PITA...
While I'm here how the heck do you:
get the rhs lower caliper bolt out? wont come out far enough to allow me to rotate the caliper
get the calipers out when the frame is in the car and the bolts are wired?
get a torque wrench on these things when reassembling?


PITA!

 

HA.

My way, take the cradle out, EVERYTHING is sooooo much easier, and the cradle out is inside an hour.

Hardest part on a sedan is the exhaust joints.

A second pair of hands to keep it stable as you lower it on the floor jack is smart.

 

Every thing Grant said, I did take it out on my own. A second pair of hands would have been the way to go, to stop it wanting to tip forward.

Exhaust joints had to be heated and bashed into submission.

I used a curved ring spanner I borrowed from the neighbour, and turned it one flat of the bolt at a time.

I didn't even consider removing the calipers in the car as my cradle caught fire so everything had to be done.

I did them as tight as I as I thought they should go them and lock wired. From experience working in confined spaces on heavy machinery you get a feel for how tight you can go without a torque wrench

 

Are you talking about the front or rear? You said final drive, so I think everyone is assuming the rear, but I don't recall the calipers in the rear being wires, they are behind the rotor, so it isn't possible to wire them up. The caliper itself has wire on it as I recall.

generally, the rear ones are under enough tension that you can keep backing them out even when they are no longer threaded and they will keep moving.
If that is your problem, try applying some pressure sideways while backing the bolt out to use its threads to push it along. If not, you may have to get something to pry or pull on it with, or you may need to spray a bit of lube on it and work it back in and then back out again.

Unthreading it should put it far enough out that you can reach behind the rotor with some pliers to pull on it, but i really dont remember. I remember the whole things being a huge pain, but the bolts came out for me. The biggest problem was getting them to crack loose

 

The rear caliper bolts are indeed safety wired.

Not sure what you by the rear calipers being "....behind the rotor...."




Cheers
DD

 

The lock wire looks nice, and is period correct, but locktite is a very reasonable modern alternative. Make sure everything is clean and dry.
Very honestly, the safety wire was archaic when these cars were built.

 

Not sure when (or if) Jaguar finally gave up on the safety wire on brakes but they were still using it on the X300s (1995-97) like my XJR !


Cheers
DD

 

we're talkin' rears, and yes it's all wired - caliper bolts, flange bolts diff bolts. looks very neat but whose lookin?
beats the hell out of me how they did it. I struggled to get the cutters in there to get it out.
So I made some enquiries and found the seals and bearings will cost prob au$600 parts only. I've got oil on the LHS caliper not sure where its from. I had 1300ml of oil in the diff and that's probably from new (120k) or at least from a long time ago. I had no noises from the diff and no oil on the floor. I know you guys will say do it while its out but I'm having trouble justifying it ATM.
Thoughts...?

 

huh? The calipers are bolted in place behind the rotor. There are holes in the rotor just so you can access the bolts to remove them. I don't know how you could possibly safety wire those without removing the rotor and all the other crap, which would defeat the purpose in providing holes to remove the bolts.

 

$600, NO WAY.

Your in Australia, so check JagDaim in Melbourne. Lots of $$ change I reckon.

You will need 2 X output housing bearings, 1 X seal, 1 X housing o/ring, 1 X collapsable spacer PER SIDE.

Memory, HAHA, I reckon they do a "kit", and its not that expensive.

 

Oh, I get it. I think you are saying the *bolts* are behnind the rotor. This might also be a Dana-versus-Salibruy difference?


I've never wired the rear bolts myself but it must be 'doable' somehow as they came from the factory that way and some guys reinstall the wires....at least on the Salisbury diffs.


Cheers
DD

 

1.You are looking, if was me I would put the lock wire back. Just because it was there when I took it apart.
2.I used modleing sidecutters to cut the lock wire

Can't recall what Jagdaim wanted for the output shaft bearings, but it was costly enough for me to look elsewhere.
1.BSC (Bearing service centre) 3207-2RS $135.19 each
2.CBC (Consolidated bearing company) 5207-RS2 $106 each
3. Ebay...All ***** Clutch Hub Bearing 35 ID x 72 OD x 27mm double row angular contact ball bearing. Harley Clutch hub bearing. $29.51

May not be the right bearings for your model, but researching prices is very worth while.

As for seals and o-rings try SIL (Seal Imports LTD) in all states. But you need your old seals intact for them to match. I had to get mine from Jagdaim as they were melted and distorted.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s1-xj6-115953/





https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...a-diff-115815/

Doug, certainly is doable. It took a few goes and many hours to get a result I was happy with, even though no one else saw them when they were shiny and new before I put the cradle back in.

This rebuild was not budgeted for,therefore I had rob Peter to pay Paul as they say.
While it is out bite the bullet and do it,it is not a job you want to do again in a hurry. Just found out today mine has to come out again to replace rear shocks. But I do have a sneeking suspicion I can do it with the cradle in the car....I will research that.

 

My hat's off to you . It isn't easy.

As I recall....been a few years since I've had to deal with an inboard brake car....the safety wire goes from one caliper bolt to the other. And that makes it more difficult.

I've oft wondered if a fellow could run the wire from each bolt to.....something else? Maybe the subframe/cage itself? I dunno. Just a thought.


Cheers
DD

 

I thought about it (going to cradle,even considered drilling and grometting holes for it). Then I decided that would be cheating myself.

Satisfaction gauranteed at the end of the day. Makes the beer taste better when you finish!

 

that price was JagDaim. $288 /side bearing and O ring plus $20 for pinion seal and rear gasket....apparently '90 XJS = Dana