Hello guys,
I have a 1996 celebration ( Thunderbird 2 ) with 43k on the clock it runs great, but every now and then the red light comes on the dash for the brake fluid.
Its not low on fluid, just wondering if the float could be a problem like they are in the XK8's when the become less buoyant? Electrical connections were cleaned with no change of situation.
Also noticed just before I put him away for the winter that the A.B.S light was coming on for about 30 seconds and then going off, happened once on last two outings.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Cheers,


ArtyH

 

the XJS has a crappy cork float that goes bad and fails to always make a connection. I'm sure if you hunt around you can find replacements for it. Probably the best way to go is the well known mitsubishi replacement reservoir. I believe it uses magnets rather than a cork float. My light comes on all the time and I don't even blink at it ( poor college student).

Never heard of one taken apart or seen it, so I can't say whether it is rebuildable.

First thing to check with ABS is that your sensors and rings are all clean.

 

On a 1996 car? Are you sure?


Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for taking the time to look at the thread guys and the info.


Cheers,


ArtyH

 

my bad, I was skimming. Hopefully someone with a late model can help you out, I've never even seen a 1996 XJS, much less its brake reservoir setup

 

the jaguar diagnostic tree for the 1996 ABS is as follows

ABS MIL Lamp Is Still Illuminated After Ignition Switch on
FAULT DIAGNOSIS

1. Check fuses (F7) in battery feed lines and (F16) in ignition line. Battery fuses are located in the left and right hand heelboard fuse boxes. The ignition supply fuse is located in the left hand heelboard fuse box.
2. Unbolt 28 way multi-plug connector from ABS/TC CM.
3. Measure resistance across each wheel speed sensor. Is value measured 1100 ohms, + 50% ? No - Unplug sensor flying lead and re-measure sensor resistance. NOTE: Rear sensor connectors are located beneath the rear seat. Seat must be removed to gain access to connector. Forward sensor connectors are located adjacent to the hood catch bracket. Is value now within range? Yes - Examine harness between ABS/TC CM and sensor. No - Renew sensor.
4. Check continuity to ground from ABS / TC CM harness connections 13 and 14. If value is much greater than 0.1 ohms renew harness.
5. With the ignition switch ON, measure voltage between ABS /TC CM harness connection 14 and connections 1 and 2 respectively. If value is not approximately equivalent to battery voltage renew harness.
6. With the ignition switch ON, measure voltage between ABS /TC CM harness connections14 and 15. If value is not approximately equivalent to battery voltage renew harness.
7. Renew ABS /TC CM if fault is not located during the above procedures.

ABS MIL Lamp Illuminates at 20 km/H (12.5 Miles)

FAULT DIAGNOSIS

1. Check fuses.
2. Disconnect pump / motor unit and measure resistance across two pin connector. Measured value should be in the region of 0.8 ohms . Renew unit if excessive resistance or short circuit is recorded.
3. Unbolt 28 way connector from ABS/TC CM and measure voltage between harness connections 1 and 14. If value is not approximately equal to battery volts renew harness.
4. Renew ABS/TC CM if fault is not located during the above procedures.

ABS MIL Lamp Illuminates on "Pull Away" or During Driving

POSSIBLE CAUSES:

• Faulty sensor or wiring.
• Faulty rotor or wheel bearing installation giving inconsistent signals to ABS / TC CM.

FAULT DIAGNOSIS

• Check sensor installation for:
• Security of sensor lead fixing bolt.
• Damage to sensor lead.
• Possible damage to rotor.
• Excessive play in wheel bearing.
• Intermittent faults caused by poor harness connection or damage.

hope that can help you some

 

Many thanks for the info sidescrollin, it looks like a very comprehensive check list. Just hope I can find the fault before having to go through the whole list LOL's as it looks like a bit of time would be needed to get to the end. Thought I had completed Thunderbird 2 last year, but appears not.


Cheers,


ArtyH

 

As it just comes on and then goes out, it sounds like a loose connection or bad ground. I would start with the third option on sidescrollin's list.

 

thats why my first though was a dirty ring or sensor

 

Thanks for the input guys, when he comes out of storage in April I'll be sure to check those points.


Thunderbird 2 in the carcoon and T.B 1 in the silver suite, in front.

 

Just to clarify, the red 'low fluid' light and the (probably amber) "ABS light' probably represent two different faults.

I'm fairly certain that on a '96 the low brake fluid sensor is incorporated into the fluid reservoir and not available separately. Other might well chime in on that.

You can still check the associated wiring and connector pins, though.

As for the ABS light cleaning the wheel sensors is good advice as they often foul with dirt. Check the toothed reluctor wheels as well. If dirt collects on them the sensor won't "see" the teeth, if you get what I mean.

Sometimes the sensors require some aerosol penetrant and care-but-persistant wiggling to remove.

Easier still, for odd ABS warning light events, is to simply remove and re-seat the big harness connector at the main ABS control module. This simple proceedure has 'fixed' more than a few weird problems. I think what really happens is that re-seating the connector jiggles the circuit board in 'just the right way' and restores continuity to the notoriously weak solder joints on the board.

Cheers
DD

 

I have looked at the 96 electrical guide, and assuming it is correct the only thing that will turn on the RED brake fluid light on is the switch in the reservoir. We will assume the reservoir is at the correct level.

This switch grounds one side of the warning lamp, so it is unlikely a faulty connection or ground will cause this lamp to come on. My first step at diagnosing would be to remove the plug from the fluid reservoir, the lamp should go out, if the lamp stays on with the plug disconnected you have a short to ground in the wiring between the lamp and the plug. If the lamp goes out the switch in the reservoir is faulty.

 

I had the same symptons on my 86 V12; whilst the float was ok the piston that operates the switch (pushed up by the float) was corroded and sticking randomly in the sleeve causing the switch to operate.
I tried cleaning the piston with fine emery cloth which helped a bit but didn't cure it: a replacement cap complete with float sorted it out properly.

 

Thanks to Doug, Warrjon and Steve M for taking the time to pass on the info.
Steve, I think the 86 and the 96 may have different tanks as I cannot see a plunge in mine, I think it has a float?
Warrjon, thanks for taking time to look at the 96 electrical guide on my behalf, very kind of you. I can confirm the fluid level is correct and the terminals are clean,I will follow your line of thought for this fault as I believed the problem is with the tank. Not sure if it is repairable or has to be replaced? Is it a float that operates the switch or something else like actual fluid level?
Doug, thanks for advice on both fronts, and I will check out the ABS sensors as per your advice, bet they have never been removed since it was built, never mind 3-4 months soaking in penetrating oil should help...LOL's.
Not moving either one until at least the back end of March/early April, just tying to get a schedule organised, easiest first, as nothing is better than little successes, except BIG successes!
Thanks to all who have helped.


Cheers,


ArtyH