Hi Guys

Having got a Broken Off Rear Bleed Nipple on 'The Ice Princess' I want to try and remove it anyway I can before it gets to the stage of having to drop the IRS

Though I may just have to do that anyway

So what I'm really looking for now, are drill bits that Cut Metal 'Anti Clockwise' a little bit like an 'Easi-out'

That can also cut into metal to thin down the walls of the broken Bleed Nipple

Before I use an Easi-out to unscrew it

But do they do such a thing?

 

Yep, and big $$.

 

Tried google?

I just did and come up with loads... Ebay, Harburger Freight, Hornbach, B&Q, ... Counter-clockwise (left turning) drill bits...

 

If you plan on using an "Easi-out" anyway why not use a standard metal drill bit to drill out the nipple and thin the walls of it then use the easy out?

Also sometimes drilling metal out on an item like this generates enough heat to loosen the item and makes it easier using the easi-out.

 

If you search online for left-handed drill bits you'll find what you need. About £10 for a set, so hardly big money!

 

Hi Jackra_1

That's not a bad idea but if I can find drill bits that spin Anti Clockwise then if the drill bit catches like they are sometimes prone to do, then who knows that it might just spin the broken nipple out

 

Its a possibility for sure. Just do not break the drill bit as I have done in the past!

 

True, CCW bits are great. Decades ago, I bought a "clever" device to sharpen bits. Percussor to Drill doctor. Well, by misadjusting the guide as to the stone, I created a few CCW bits!!! Actually not quite. The cutting edge was CCW, but the spiral remained CW !! Nuts, back to the grinder and visual sharpening.


I have a Drill Doctor. OK, but much adoo as to just cut them on the grinder....


In my humble opinion, avoid the Eazy out. they are hard, very hard and thusly .brittle. snap one in the hoe and oh..... deep dooodooo.


I have a neat little set of splined steel rods. And a square on the end for purchase. drill the offending screw/bolt. Tap in the rod. Twist. OK if the corrosion isn't too bad.


Carli

 

Hi Carl

That's an interesting idea!

I've tried to use eo's before but because they have a Screw Spiral

The last time that I used one, it seemed to expand the very walls of the thing that I was trying to get out, which seemed to jam it tighter than it was before

Maybe I could drill it out and hammer in a TORX bit and then try and turn that

 

Forget the dreadful bodges OB. Here is the correct procedure, which eventually you will have to follow!!!:

• remove cage
• remove calliper
• buy rebuilt calliper
• Fit it along with R&Ring the handbrake, new discs, full greasing of all points, checking diff bolt tightness all round etc etc
• replace cage

One of the many problems with drilling out bleed nipples is the likelihood of damaging the taper at the bottom of the hole, so that the new nipple will not seat fluid tight. If this happens, then a remote bleeder kit will get you out of that problem, which will be no cheaper than a reman calliper; but a terrific piece of kit to put on the car - and knowing your luck, you will find the only Fosseway Performance kit in the world that is in a charity shop!.
Cheers
Greg

 

https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...waAl6PEALw_wcB


bob

 

I have a set I bought years ago and at times it is a real lifesaver. The vibrations and heat often cause the broken bolt to just come out.

 

Hi Greg

If I have to drop the Cage, how do I disconnect the Handbrake Cable?

That looks one of the hardest parts to get out

 

Handbrake cable is just a clevis pin, easy to take out. The hardest part is usually the large radius arm mounts, they typically rust to the body. I have had good luck with a big prybar to apply force, while simultaneously applying vibrations with a air chisel.


For your bleed nipple, try heat from a torch. That usually breaks rust much better than trying to drill it out.

 

Hi Jagboi64

Cheers! I'll revisit the Handbrake situation as at first glance undoing that looked like the job from hell

As for the Radius Arm Mounts, I'm soaking them in 'The Mixture' and hope they come out easy if they need to

But as for the Bleed Nipple, I tried every trick in the book including heat but it broke off almost level with the hole that it screws into

Can't believe such a little thing has caused such a Big Problem

'When a Butterfly flaps its Wings' and all of that

There is almost no room to get in there with a drill to drill it out, so its looking like a Cage drop at the moment

Apart from the Handbrake Cable, is there anything else that I need to undo?

Also is there any way that I could drop the Cage down and leave it attached to the Prop-shaft without taking it out, as all the running gear on this Car is good

All I could really do with is a bit more room to try and get the broken Bleed Nipple out

 

No, undo it. It's only 4 bolts. What I would do is mark both flanges on the driveshaft and the diff with a punch or some other permanent mark before disassembly. Then upon reassembly, assemble in the same orientation to preserve driveline alignment.


To drop the cage you'll need to remove/disconnect:

Handbrake cable
brake flex hose
exhaust
driveshaft
speedometer sensor cable
ABS sensor cable (if equipped)
radius arms

 

I got a set of screw extractors for Christmas some decades ago from Sears Craftsman that had a counterclockwise bit on one end, then you'd take it out of the drill, flip it around in the chuck, and it had a spline on the other end that would twist and wedge into the hole that was just drilled. My luck tho seems that eight times out of ten, the broken screw was too soft for the extractor to hold onto and I'd wind up just drilling it out and either tapping for the next larger screw or installing a helicoil. I don't know that would work on a brake bleeder, but the screw extractor set I got is similar to this one.

 

Hi OB


Good bolt extractors work well I have a set of these made from tungsten alloy and they have never let me down. I originally had easyouts and broke a couple of them.


With these ones no need to drill as the bit is built in, just set the drill in reverse.


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1189

 

Hi Warrjon

Cheers!

That's just what I'm looking for!

 

You just squeeze the HB arms together a bit, then pop the far end of the cable out of the hole it fits into in the LHS (of the car) arm.
The hardest bit is undoing the flexible brake line...