Hi Greg

I can always cut the Brake Pipe with a Bread Knife but the Hardest part is going to be removing the Speedo Sensor, which is almost impossible to get a Spanner on

As unlike your Car this is in the Cage

 

Hey OB,

Drop the cage just enough to get at the VSS unit and unbolt it from the diff, be careful not to loose the shims as these set the sensor clearance.

 

Why remove it from the diff? It only plugs into the left rear corner in the boot. I'd unplug the sensor there and unclip the connections and remove it with the axle.

 

Hi Daim

That sounds a really good idea!

If I have to drop the 'Cage' I'll look into doing it that way, as once you disturb that Sensor anything can happen

 

OB, I have heard of people removing the rear seats and cutting access holes in the floor to get to the brakes.
I've never seen it done but might be worth a look?

 

Hi Steve

Cheers!

There are no rear Seats in my Cars, just the Cubby Box if that's what you meant and I have to admit its a very Tempting idea

Bearing in mind that I'm never going to sell this Car, so its certainly worth looking into, as doing anything on the Brakes, sounds like a bit of a 'Nightmare'

Replacing the Brake Pads is not too bad and I have done that before but replacing the Rotors and Calipers, is a totally different story!

Since you had an MGC you will know what I'm talking about here

But my MGB has a 'Neat and Removable Panel' which is held in place by 'Turn Screws' which you undo in order to get to the Batteries which are behind the front seats

And I wouldn't be at all surprised if that same MGB Panel, wouldn't be a Perfect Fit to go in the bottom of the 'Cubby Box'

Maybe I'll trial fit it to see how it would look!

Daim, Jay Jag Jay, Sidescrollin, does anyone have any thoughts on this 'good or bad'

I'm really hoping Jay Jag Jay, is going to beat me to it with the Angle Grinder!

'Greg' 'Grant' Would that idea hypothetically give enough room to Change the Rotors etc?

Can anyone see any problems?

It 'May' not weaken the Structure as the only bit you'll be cutting out would be in the bottom of the 'Cubby Box' and not the Seats as in a Coupe

 

OB
Even if you make a hole in the right place, which is VERY unlikely, then you have to ruin the pressed woodchip heat shield beneath it, before then seeing the nipple. Also the body is double skinned under the seat of a coupe and I expect it is in the convertible too. There is also a tubular strengthener in the cavity between these skins and you really really do NOT want o cut that in half. Even if you did all this then you will find the nipple will not drill out properly and you have to change the calliper. Then you remove the cage as the hole you have drilled will not any help with that task...
Really, Alex, removing the cage is not that hard, and changing the rotors is an absolute cinch.
I will pm you a list of what to do!

 

There are heat shields between cage and body.

 

Hi Greg

Cheers!

I done a lot of jobs on my Cars that I could never have done without your help and also 'Grant' but this would be the Big One and is out of my Comfort Zone

If only Jags had thought to provide some access for jobs like this

But I've not given up on getting the Broken rear bleed nipple out, as there's still a few more tricks that I can try

 

Hi xjsV12

Cheers!

Nothing very straightforward on these Cars

 

I'm only saying, I've heard of it being done, no idea of what is involved.

 

OB, drop the cage.

While its out replace the radius arm bushes, check diff and caliper bolts are tight, or better still remove and loctite them in. You can also check bearings in the fulcrum shafts, etc etc.

 

I'm with Warren on this, OB.

Before you doctor around in a dark area, cut openings into the body, possibly reduce the structural integrity of the car and end up having to take the cage out anyway, just do it the right way. It is easy enough. Couple of hours, few curses and it is out.

It is easier than the less complicated Jaguar IRS MK II of the XJ40/X300/X300/X100 which doesn't have radius arms.

Also, don't get carried away with parts then. Do the job you wantvto, check for damages, refit. I'll be doing a full rear cage rebuild when I get to the rear end. It is easy to get carried away. Just replace this bearing. Just replace that bush. Just resp these screws. Just have that wishbone sandblasted...

 

One of my failings, while it's out I'll just replace X


I started out just replacing the dampers and ended up with a bare metal respray. Rear cage was sandblasted seam welded then powder coated.

 

Hi,
Good to read all reply.
Thanks