XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Case for replacing oil pressure sender

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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 11:58 PM
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Default Case for replacing oil pressure sender

The outside temperature was in low teens (in F) here last night. Brrr... Looks like winter is just around the corner and I need to start thinking about "winter projects".

I am thinking about replacing the Oil Pressure Sender, as well as oil pressure switch. I don't know if the oil pressure sender is the source of slow oil leak I have, but it does look suspiciosuly oily. See the picture below.

So, I am thinking about ordering a new sender to replace the aging one. Alternatively, is it ok to get a replacement sender from the donor car and save $40-$50?

What will it take to replace the oil pressure sender? I assume I will need to remove the ignition coil and then remove the TPS pedestal to get an access to the oil pressure sender, correct?

 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 02:09 AM
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Yes, that is correct, capstan tower out, then you MUST support the ally casting the senders are screwed into against the torque of unscrewing the senders, or you will snap it off. Ditto doing them up. Use new senders, this is a job you do not want to redo!
 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 05:19 AM
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New senders are 40 to 50 bucks. Idiot light is about 10 bucks. Might as replace that too.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 07:02 AM
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I have a different engine, but same looking sender. Ever since it was replaced, it continues to be a source of a leak! That one and the idiot light one. I’ve replaced them countless times. They work fine for a few months and then the leak begins!

very frustrating.

do NOT cheap out and use a used part. I’ve just replaced them again this weekend and I went back to OEM to see if there’s gonna be a difference. I was ordering the URO aftermarket parts before.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:44 PM
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From Kirby's book, the oil pressure sender part number is C46272.

There was no part # provided for the switch, but there were comments these should be pretty common and available in mainstream US auto parts stores. Anybody remember what the part number for oil pressure switch is in AutoZone or O'Reilly?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 10:02 PM
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I used NAPA #6160 sender for the gauge and #6163 switch for the warning light.

Both fit fine. The switch works well. The sender works....but gives a too high reading. Not really a big deal to me. Truth is, I forgot about it until now.

Over the many years others have reported a too-high reading from aftermarket senders as well.

Not sure if things have changed but for a long time the Jaguar offering was the 'updated' designed that turned the oil pressure gauge into an 'idiot gauge'....so watch out!

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
Not sure if things have changed but for a long time the Jaguar offering was the 'updated' designed that turned the oil pressure gauge into an 'idiot gauge'....so watch out!
I thought that was just for the X300?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
I thought that was just for the X300?
As I recall (it's been years), when Jaguar transitioned to the idiot gauges they changed the replacement parts as well. I'm pretty sure there's a TSB covering the change

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 11:07 PM
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You may well be right about the revised design pertaining to just the X300. I can't find anything, at least not quickly, pertaining to older models

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 11:26 PM
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My memory is was just the AJ16 engines, not the V12's, but I could be wrong on that.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 11:51 PM
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Here's the X300 bulletin, which pertains to both engines

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...luctuation.pdf

In the back of my mind I still think there's a similar TSB covering older models but I'm just not sure. It would take me hours to find it, if it exists. I have hundreds of TSBs on a CD. But, in any case, the 'idiot' type sender looks quite a bit different than the 'smart' type....so you'd know something was weird right from the get go.

Heh heh, tidbits that were fresh in my mind 15-18-20 years ago ain't so fresh these days

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Nov 10, 2019 | 11:19 AM
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Today is the day. Started on replacement of both the oils pressure sender and the light switch.

Step 1, removal of the old, is done. It was not too bad. There was one moment where I thought I was stuck. The old sender seemed to be stuck and did not want to get out no matter what. I was applying a lot of force to it, while at the same time trying to support the aluminum casting as much as I can (space was very tight.) Did not want to get out. I followed Jaguar elders' wisdom: don't fight the car. Respect it and work with it. So, I put WD40 on it and went for some tee (too early for beer ). After thinking a bit, I designed a make-shift extension for the wrench that allowed me to increase torque in a confined space. This was just enough to get it moving! Phew...

Here are the pics of the sender, switch and the area where they came from. Definitely oily. It looks like oil was sipping through the tops of both the sender and the switch. I am not sure if this is the main source of oil leak I have, but I think it was time to replace both.

Will start the reverse process after cleaning the Vet a bit...




 
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Old Nov 10, 2019 | 08:01 PM
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Finished installing new sender/switch and I am back on the road! The whole job took me about half a day. Not too bad. Took the cat around the neighborhood. The gauge is showing pressure just north of 50. Similar to what the old gauge was showing. Idiot light is on at start and then it goes off after couple of seconds. Looks like I re-connected everything properly.

By the way, if anybody wants a proof that senders can leak oil from the top, here is the smoking gun. After taking the old sender out, I put it on a bench and it turned itself upside down. Shortly after I noticed oil started accumulating and sipping through the area of electrical connector at the top. A few oil drops even came out. With no pressure or anything. Just gravity. So, this one was defintely shot. Let's see how long the new one lasts.



 
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by v1rok
Finished installing new sender/switch and I am back on the road! The whole job took me about half a day. Not too bad. Took the cat around the neighborhood. The gauge is showing pressure just north of 50. Similar to what the old gauge was showing. Idiot light is on at start and then it goes off after couple of seconds. Looks like I re-connected everything properly.

By the way, if anybody wants a proof that senders can leak oil from the top, here is the smoking gun. After taking the old sender out, I put it on a bench and it turned itself upside down. Shortly after I noticed oil started accumulating and sipping through the area of electrical connector at the top. A few oil drops even came out. With no pressure or anything. Just gravity. So, this one was defintely shot. Let's see how long the new one lasts.



Can you provide me with the part numbers and where you purchased these items? thank you!
 
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 02:12 AM
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How hard was it to support the ali casting from snapping it off?

Good job.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stran0020
Can you provide me with the part numbers and where you purchased these items? thank you!
stran,

I was somewhat surprised to learn that it was fairly easy to find the replacement parts in regular auto parts stores. The original part number for the sender is C46272. AutoZone will give you couple of options if you enter your make/model/year.

Similar story with the switch.I got my switch from Napa Auto Parts store because AutoZone did not have them in stock so I would have to order one. Napa part number for the switch is OP6613

 
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dukejag
How hard was it to support the ali casting from snapping it off?
I used adjustable wrench to try to counterbalance the torque I was applying to the sender. I had one with the jaws that open wide enough to wrap around the round front of the pedestal and back into the back of the pedestal. It worked for me

At one point I considered removing the banjo bolt from the back, but the space was so tight in there that it is almost impossible to get to that bolt. So, I proceeded with the approach from the front.
 
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