Well, I was lucky to have been given a file folder half inch thick for my '89 XJS convertible(Marelli), so I spent a couple hours last night itemizing replaced parts and service for the last 15 years by the previous two owners. I see where the rad was re-cored, new main hoses, thermostats, alternator, couple batteries, may smaller items, were replaced over the years, including one item on a $3000.00+ invoice from 2006 for a 'regulator', #JLM010579. -Does anyone know mwhat that would be?-I read where the power window mechanism is called a regulator, but not sure.
In all the various invouces for yearly inspections and other service, there is no listing, going back for 15 years, for the changing of the spark plugs, wires, dist. cap or rotor. -She's still working great, but from reading the many posts regarding the Marelli dist cap and rotor going bad, I have bitten the bullet and ordered a complete tune-up kit from Faster Jags, and will get these items replaced by the shop[ which has done most of the service work for the previous owner over the years, still only 25km away. -BTW, I have also put an offer on the Growler Air Intakes from FJ's too.
(TTFN)=TaaTaaForNow.

 

Greg,

JLM10579 is a LHF door window regulator for the convertible cars.

It reads as being fairly well serviced, and the lack of spark plugs/leads/etc may only be a glitch in the paper work, but a new set will do NO harm.

Transmission fluid service would be a good idea if that is also lacking.

Brake fluid flush every year would be a real "warm and fuzzy" for the car. That stuff absorbs moisture and goes bad quite quickly, and since the brake system is all cast iron calipers, and master cylinder, which will rust very quickly.

Enjoy the car.

 

if you bleed the brakes, use the correct fluid.

 

Did I read correctly, -89 XJS kitty likes DOT4 Brake Fluid? -Anything special about the fluid beyond that?
Oh yeah, I'm used to seeing the transmission dip stick/filler tube snake up next to the firewall for access...but I don't see the one for the Turbo400. -Is it access from below? -I must admit I still have not crawled under her yet, but she is going on a hoist this week to find the power steering leak. -I'll be following the exhaust system too, to see what I can and can't do with it, while I'm under there.

 

my exhaust was done by a muffler shop. 2.25" all the way back to a pair of glasspacks with gutted cats. i love it, but its loud.

 

No idea what is what in your area. Down here Dot4 is NOW the standard fluid on the shelves. It is a slightly higher temp "non-synthetic" fluid.

The "snake" IS the TH400 dipstick tube. The transmission in your car is a TH400.

 

Thanks Grant and everyone for the tips and guidance in trying to keep my English Sweetie content. I had my `89 XJS convertible on the hoist yesterday to look at the power steering fluid leak, all hoses look good and dry; -Appears like the leak is coming from the seal in the neck of the input shaft on the rackwhere the u-joint lies. -Shop mechanic suggest a dose of Lucas Power Steering Treatment first, for a month, saying he has seen great results with it. I plan to try it first before replacing anything. Is this seal replaceable with the rack in place?
While getting a good long look at the Jag's underbelly, I saw where the Turbo400's pan is hooked to the tranny mount (Very poor engineering there), and the mechanic noticed there is a reddish bushing in the trans. mount. It is half squashed out and disintegrating. I suspect this is the cause for a minor bump or clunk heard a couple times in the past 3 months I've owned it. It will get replaced too, if I can find one.
Now, I've read about the '80's cars having the 'Inboard' rear disc brakes...I saw what/where they are!-Lord Thundering!...and of course the mechanic pointed out one side of both discs is approx. 1/8th thick. So the rears will need a complete replacing. I read in Nigel T's book there are some specific things to study and heed regarding the hand brake calipers and pads, so I'll begin sourcing the parts and look for a competent shop. The nearest Jag dealer is in next province,(Halifax, Nova Scotia) approx. 400 kms from here. I spoke with a respected retired mechanic today, said he worked on Land Rovers with inboard brakes, should be similar. I hope to print off some threads on this topic later tonight for reference, along with some of Kirby P's bible readings.
But, can't drive sporty if you can't stop.

 

OK, one thing at atime.

The power steer seal will possibly "take up" with either that treatment, or simply some FRESH fluid. It is one of the forgotten fluids in any car, and a refresh can do wonders. I use Synthetic Trans Fluid in ALL the Jag power steer units. That seal is "do-able" in situ, NOT NICE and you need to have your eyes tuned in just right, That is RHD, no idea on LHD.

The pan mount MOBSTER is a DUMB idea, and makes servicing the trans too hard, so it dont get done. Or as I have seen down here, is all the other pan bolts are taken out, the rear 2 are loosened as best can be, and the pan is simply bent down for filter access, and RTV squirted in the rear section for a seal, bent back, see ya later. I wrote here very recently the removal of said bracket, so should be easy to find, if not PM me and I will email the "Word" doc I have on doing so.

The "squished" mount is the "cotton reel" bush/mount, and YES that is the thump you hear. The whole mount assembly including that spring (watch the fingers) needs to come out to replace that bush, and I always use Poly in that area, as it last forever, and is not dissolved by oil. Again I have a "Word" paper on that also.

The rear brakes, WELL, welcome to the dark side. I have done tooooo many, and when discs/handbrake pads/etc are up for replacement, I ALWAYS take the whole cradle out of the car, and do whatever is required, and do it properly, and leave it for another 20+ years. The 8 bolts that secure the diff to the cradle are notorious for coming loose, the output shaft seals leak, and cradle out is the only way to do any of that properly. YES, I know many do them in situ, but the cradle can be out in under 2 hours, and that is the only way I do these things now. The standard "main pads" obviously are done with the cradle in place, and take all of 30 minutes to replace, quite simple.

Not aware of any Landy's with inboard brakes????, but stranger things have appeared.