XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Cherry Blossom - Restoration 1990 XJS V12

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  #1221  
Old 07-09-2017, 03:51 PM
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Hi Bro

I could do with your expert help.

When I installed the Stereo I bought some Ratchet Crimpers but I think they had the wrong dies in

which meant they wouldn't Crimp insulated Terminals. ie Red/Blue/Yellow.

Which meant I had to resort to using my 'el cheapo' ones.

Is there any you can recommend, as I would like to get a proper set of Terminal Crimpers for other jobs in the future.

I don't need anything Top of the range just a decent pair for around £10-£15.
 
  #1222  
Old 07-09-2017, 06:00 PM
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For those plastic coated (blue/red/yellow) terminals I use cutter part of my bull nose pliers, don't do it too hard or you will cut through the terminal.
 
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  #1223  
Old 07-09-2017, 08:52 PM
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The ratchet crimpers are normally only suitable for non insulated terminals.
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 12:41 AM
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Have you tried on EBay, I saw a set on thier, here is a link but it is for the US but will give you an idea. I am sure you can find a similar type on the EBay UK sight

Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit with 5 Die Sets, Free Shipping | eBay
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:24 AM
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Default Room For Improvement on 'Cherry Blossom'

Room For Improvement

While I love 'Cherry Blossom' almost more than Life itself, there are a couple of things that could be improved.

On my 1989 XJS the Knee Pad under the Dashboard is quite thin.

Which results in plenty of 'Leg Room' and makes it very easy to swivel your right foot onto the Brakes.

Not so on 'Cherry Blossom' Which is a 1990.

Where no doubt for reasons of Safety, this Knee Pad has been replaced by a Thickly Padded Under Tray.

Which very often hampers swiveling my Right Foot onto the Brakes, as its easy to catch it with the toe of your Shoe (I'm an average size 9)

So since I had to drop this Tray in order to get to some Wires, I experimented by removing it altogether.

Which results in Acres more Space and also making the Car feel much Safer to Drive, at it is so much easier to get to the Brake Pedal.

Though on the other side of the Coin, then I would imagine that Knee Pad would provide some much needed Protection in the event of a Crash.

Thoughts please Guys.



Loads more Leg Room on my 1989 XJS thanks to the Thinner Knee Pad.
Making it very easy to get to the Brakes without catching your foot.


Not so on my 1990 where the Thicker Under Tray Knee Pad gets right in the way.



This Thicker Under Tray Knee Pad on my 1990 always seems to get in the way of getting to the Brakes!


Just as an experiment I decided to remove it altogether (just one bolt and 2 clips)

This resulted in Acres of Space which makes it so much easier to get to the Brake Pedal and as such feels Safer to Drive.

Though no doubt in the event of a Crash, I would probably wish that I had left it in place.

Anyone else had a similar dilemma?



Loads more room to get to the Brakes in my 1990 with the Knee Pad Under Tray removed but should I put it back?


I'm also not a Big Fan of the 'Skinny Steering Wheel' on my 1990 and much prefer the 'Thicker Sports Wheel' of my 1989.

Unfortunately they are not interchangeable, as you would have to swap the whole Steering Column.

Which would then leave me with 'My Pet Hate' 'The Coat Hanger Wire' Type Indicator Stalks!

The Indicator Stalks on my 1990 are Chunky and have the right feel.

Nicer Problems to have...........

 
  #1226  
Old 07-10-2017, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BigD
The ratchet crimpers are normally only suitable for non insulated terminals.
Hi BigD

I found that out the Hard Way by buying some ratchet crimpers that turned out to be only suitable for non insulated Terminals.

Which have now been returned for a refund.
 
  #1227  
Old 07-10-2017, 01:07 PM
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Not all agree, and many of those that do not, have logical reasons tro support crimps.


My biased choice is soldered connection. Protected by shrink tubing.


Carl
 
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  #1228  
Old 07-10-2017, 10:52 PM
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Hi Carl

While I would agree with you that Soldering is best, I didn't want to run the risk of getting a Hot Soldering Iron anywhere near the upholstery.

When fitting the Stereo, there are only a couple of Wires that carry 12v and they are protected by in-line fuses, as well as fuses on the back of the Stereo.

So 'Crimping' was the way I decided to go.
 
  #1229  
Old 07-11-2017, 06:06 PM
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Default Revisiting the Knee Pad Under Tray on my 1990 XJS

As already mentioned, while the Knee Pad Under tray on my 1990 XJS was no doubt added as a Safety Feature.

It seems to cause more problems than it solves, as even while wearing a lightweight pair of Shoes in a Size 9.

I'm finding I'm always catching the toe of my shoe on the edge of this tray if I am not very careful when I go to put on the Brakes.



It's easy to catch the toe of your Shoe on the edge of the Knee Pad protector when you go to put on the brakes.




When changing from the gas pedal to brake, it seems as if you have to keep the toe of your Shoe in the space and then slide it over from one pedal to the other.



If you don't keep the toe of your Shoe in the space between the pedals and knee pad, then sometimes this happens!
Which would not be good in an emergency braking situation.




The lower edge of the Knee Pad is deceptively wide at just over 15mm



Since the edge of this Knee Pad sometimes catches the toe of my Shoe when I brake, I thinking of leaving the Knee Pad off altogether.




With the Knee Pad removed there's more room to get to the Brakes.
 
  #1230  
Old 07-11-2017, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeblossom
Hi BigD

I found that out the Hard Way by buying some ratchet crimpers that turned out to be only suitable for non insulated Terminals.

Which have now been returned for a refund.
They can be had with head die to suit the insulated terminals although as with Carl l prefer non insulated with heat shrink or separate insulating boot.
When adapting after market head units which normally come with plug and pigtail wireing l often simply tin the tips of pigtail wires and flatten with pliers and insert into existing OEM plug. This saves butchering original wireing and since these assemblies are normally tucked away out of the way they rarely get disturbed or cause a problem.
 
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  #1231  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:00 AM
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Hi Baxtor

Cheers!

I didn't want a Hot Soldering Iron anywhere near the Car, so I just Crimped on Bullet Connectors to the Pigtails of the supplied ISO Plug.

Using my 'el cheapo Crimpers' instead of the New Ones I bought, which unbeknown to me at the time had the wrong die for Crimping Insulated Connectors.

But! but! but!......... After some experimentation, I've come up with what I think are the Ultimate Pair of Home Made 'Crimpers' for putting on those Insulated Terminals.

Not so much a case of making but more a case of adapting a Tool I already had.

As soon as I've taken some Photos to show how it works, I'll put them up.
 
  #1232  
Old 07-12-2017, 12:43 PM
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Looking good OB!

Your old Jaguar stereo... You keeping that mate?

Also, size 9? I find it hard to find shoes that fit properly... I vary between 10.5 and 12, depending on brand... And then I'm 'only' 6'2"...
 
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  #1233  
Old 07-12-2017, 12:49 PM
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Still got my original clarion radio cassette. should have kept my cassettes though, dohhhh
dont drive it enough to have a new system,just turn on the radio to 11 and hunt audi's when im driving it.
 
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  #1234  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Daim
Looking good OB!

Your old Jaguar stereo... You keeping that mate?

Also, size 9? I find it hard to find shoes that fit properly... I vary between 10.5 and 12, depending on brand... And then I'm 'only' 6'2"...
Hi Daim

Yeah! I'm keeping the Jag Radio, for the sake of posterity and because it was part of the Car.

But my 'Budget' £18 Stereo continues to blow me away!

The Sound Quality is absolutely stunning and the Radio itself is Crystal Clear.

I'm also going to do away with the 'Knee Pad' as when its Clipped on its fixing bar, it brings the edge of the Pad down by nearly 3/4 of an inch!

No such problem like that on my 1989.
 
  #1235  
Old 07-12-2017, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by leo newbiggin
Still got my original clarion radio cassette. should have kept my cassettes though, dohhhh
dont drive it enough to have a new system,just turn on the radio to 11 and hunt audi's when im driving it.
Hi Leo

I've got loads of those Cassettes and still cannot believe that I was paying nearly a 'Fiver' for just a couple of Songs!

How times have changed.
 
  #1236  
Old 07-12-2017, 06:31 PM
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Default My Home Made Insulated Terminal Crimpers!

Home Made
Insulated Terminal Crimpers


Well maybe not so much Home Made as a Tool I adapted to do the Job.

To say that they are Awesome! is a bit of an understatement and since I'm finding it hard to be humble, I won't even bother to try.

They are really that good!

Having ordered a pair of Ratchet Crimpers and not being an Electrician, I didn't take much notice of the 'Crimping Die'

Where I found out the Hard Way, that they would not be any good to use for Crimping Insulated Terminals.

As you can imagine I was gutted!

The reason being I wanted to do my Stereo installation with a more Professional piece of Kit.

So in the end I had to make do with my 'el Cheapo Crimpers' and though they sort of did the Job.

I would have like the end result to have looked a bit neater, although the Wires are out of sight and can't be seen.

But then I suddenly had an idea!

That I thought I would try, as some time ago I bought a pair of Wire Strippers.

These as you'll see from the Photo, have an Adjustable Screw to adjust the gap, so you only strip the Insulation.

So once I had used them to Strip the Wire and then slid an Insulated Terminal on.

I put the Wire with the Terminal under the Adjustable Screw of the Wire Strippers.

Then as I squeezed the Handles together, the Adjustable Screw in the Wire Strippers, made a very neat and tight round 'Crimp'

And as you can adjust the Screw beforehand, it means that you are able to Pre-Set the depth of the 'Crimp'

So it would work with the Blue-Yellow and Red ones and can be Crimped in Two places if required.

As the Strippers are Spring Loaded, I just used an elastic band to hold the handles together while taking the Photo.



A Standard pair of Wire Strippers with an Adjustment Screw.




After using the Strippers to Strip the Wire, I slid on an Insulated Terminal (in this case a joiner) and then used the Adjustment Screw to set the depth of 'Crimp'





The end result was a very pleasing tight round 'Crimp' that does what it says on the tin.
and so much better than I got with my 'el Cheapo Crimpers'








 
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  #1237  
Old 07-12-2017, 11:13 PM
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I avoid those terminals... There better ones which are also more sealed out there... And are easier to use. Those plastic parts and thin tin material are in my eyes a waste of effort.
 
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  #1238  
Old 07-13-2017, 04:03 AM
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I hereby dub you an Aussie for ingenuity..............

I don't use those terminals as I used to buy them in bulk I have 100's of the professional ones much like these but are heatshrink to seal them, used in telecommunication underground repair.
 
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  #1239  
Old 07-13-2017, 08:27 AM
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Hi Warrjon

Cheers!

But I'm dreading to think what I might come up with next.
 
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  #1240  
Old 07-20-2017, 06:14 PM
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Default Changing Cherry Blossom's Shock Absorber Bushes

Absolutely Shocking!

With Words like 'This Won't Take Me Long' Still ringing in my ears, I set about the job of Changing the Front Shock Absorber Bushes.

On my XJS V12 that I call 'Cherry Blossom'

But why would I want to do that on a Car that passed an MOT with Flying Colours.

Well just in case you hadn't guessed, they forgot to check them and I was so excited to get her back on the road.

That I was in denial that they might need doing after a lay up of only 17 years!

As after all She drove like a dream down the Two Lane Black Top but once back on an 'A Road'

She was bumping and grinding like a Wooden Ox Cart, on a Mountain Road.

But replacing the Front Shock Absorber Bushes is such an easy job, that there wasn't any reason for not doing it sooner.

Though when the problem started to raise its ugly head, I thought that it might go away, once the Suspension was moving again.

After such a long time.....

Although I was still in denial and of course kidding myself.



Behold the Crumbling Bush beneath the Washer.


So before I took the Old ones off I decided to 'make' some replacements of my own, as this is very easy to do.


With a Standard 'Hole Saw' and whatever type of 'Material' you decide to make them from, which in my Case was a Scrap Piece of Hard Rubber.




This Piece of Hard Rubber looked ideal for the Job and should make her Corner like a Go Kart.

Just one little problem the Rubber was too thick, so I had to cut them down to Size 16mm.

I just filled a Socket with Washers until it was 16mm deep, then stuffed the Bush in the Socket and using that as a guide, chopped a bit off the end.



Cutting my 'Home Made Bushes' down to 16mm





Using the Socket as a Guide, I was able to cut them Spot on to 16mm


After which I set up a little production line and made the whole lot in about an hour.



The Old ones had seen better days and were very clearly 'Shot Away'


If you thought that those were bad, then just look what I found underneath the Wing/Fender.



Underneath the Front Wing/Fender, the Shock Absorber Bushes were almost Non Existent.


Now all that I have got to do is remove the Old Ones and put my New Ones on.

It usually takes about an Hour for me to do both sides, so how hard can it be?

What do you mean THREE DAYS! You must be Joking

What could possibly go wrong!

To be Continued.......






 


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