So, sorting my 87 to get her on the road. Bought a Wizzard aluminum radiator, silicone hose set, new stats and 2 Tefba filters. Looking into the expantion tank and the cross pipe fill, there is Tons of bars leak in there! The Tefbas are going to plug instantly! Anybody backflushed the system to get this crap out? The radiator "Super cleaner" has vanished from parts stores, bad for aluminum? I want the system as clean as I can get it before the new parts. Any help would be appreciated!

 

Ford sells a couple of cleaners that seems to be well liked.

 

If you got that much gunk in there, there is no short cuts, unfortunately.

The header tank will be FULL of gunk, as it has NO pipe out the bottom, the stuff just settles in the bottom. Soooo, tank out and physical prod and flush is the only way.

The atmospheric tank, in the LH wing aperture, will also be full of mud.

The engine block rear cylinders on both banks will also be blocked, and there is NO way of getting that out without stripping the engine, which is just plain silly.

With the stats out, and the bottom hose off, there is a reasonable chance of getting some gunk out, this is time consuming, frustrating, and you will get wet.

With the water pump off, access to the block passages will be a lot better, and more gunk will exit the block, your call.

 

Thats the info I needed, and its not so bad. There is a bearing rumble from the front that the po said is the water pump. While the radiator is out, and hoses being changed, i can check this out. Might as well throw a new pump at it! Perfect time to "dousch" out the block! She will be down a bit longer than I hoped, but best to do it right the first time!

 

Yep.

You are now at the stage most of us have been at a looooooong time ago.

"Playing catch up from the fools that have fiddled previously". This list can be short,HAHA, but mostly it is long and annoying.

I live by the same words, "do it once, do it properly". Has worked for me for all these years.

The cooling system on any V12 is what will BITE ya, if you short cut it.

 

If you start with a relatively clean coolant system, do you think yearly radiator drain and fills is enough? Or do you have to do full yearly flushes? I am doing yearly drain and fills and the car runs cool.

 

If its as clean as you can get it, and the engine runs cool, as you say, then annual or 2 yearly drop and refill will be fine.

My rads used to come out every 5 years for pro cleaning, and were usually some 15% clogged. Since the engine rebuilds, and subsequent block scrub outs, every 10+ years is more sensible.

Advances in coolants also aids this life span.

 

If I end up doing a complete flush, should I use a phosphate free anti freeze like Zerex G-05? It sounds like it works well with Aluminum... Thanks

 

Dont know that brand.

I use Nulon Long Life Red. Never read the specs to be honest. Google it if it helps, but probably not relative to your market.

We sell it at work for ALL the late GM V6, and Ford V8 engines. It comes PreMixed, or concentrated for own mixing.

 

My only concern with Zerex G-05 is that it may not be good for the original copper/brass/lead radiators... I read that Nulon Long life red also may not recommended for the older radiators because of possible issues with softening the lead welds, etc.

 

I've not heard that one, but not doubting anyome at the same time.

OK, all my late "plastic" stuff has it in, as does the MK10, S2 4.2, and SIr Arthur (S2 XJ12), and no issues as yet, and running about 4 years. MAybe a shock is about to strike, but I seriously doubt it.

I will ask the Nulon guy when I see him next week, but I reckon if it was an issue like that it would be plainly labelled for all to see.

Time will tell.

 

I could be wrong about the Nulon but I am pretty sure that I read that it may soften the lead soldering in older radiators/heater cores. It does sound like you do not have any issues with it.

 

All this info is great! So, while I have the radiator out, new wp, change over to a Bosch 115 alt, "douch" the cooling passages and what else? Crank seal? Im going dual electric fans and am confused about the waterpumps. Rock Auto has a Bosch unit for $250ish. My parts guy has a rebuilt no name for the same. All over E-bay for $100.00. What to buy? I have fallen into default mode nowadays, even with my 4 runner. Cheap, bad. Give me something that will LAST and do its job! I want to have as much in hand when I dig in as possible. Hey Doug, chime in! You and Greg have been the most consistent "common sense" guys Ive read on so far! Not to mention your comment about the "uncared for Jag will be a unforgiving bitch" comment will go down in Jag history! Just my sense of humor I guess!

 

Oops! Read that and cringed! I don't want to knock anybody on this forum, you are all great? Doug and Greg just tickle my funnybone more than others! I get thier "Grass roots basic" attitude. I am sorry if I offended anyone, its just the beer talking! :-)

 

+1

That's what I've been doing for years and years.

Cheers
DD

 

FWIW I've used ordinary, old fashioned green Prestone in all my Jags, including the XJS V12. I never researched the chemistry-compatibility aspects of it all.

If something bad was supposed to occur as a result of my nonchalance I've never saw, heard, smelled, or felt it.

Aside: I'm reminded of a big all-British car show years ago. Hot August day. There was a traffic snafu at the entrance to the field and dozens of MGs, Jags, Healeys, etc. were lined up and waiting to enter.

A blind man walking by would've have known it was an all-Brit meet because the air was ripe with the smell of hot anti-freeze, burning oil, and leaking fuel

Cheers
DD

 

I did, but, truth is, whenever I see that Grant has answered I know there's never anything for me to add...except maybe a "Me too"

Cheers
DD

 

if you get it clean , try EVANS waterless coolant , there is a topic on jaglovers v12 engine site.

the stuff does work tho. and never again any corrossion or rust.

i used it on 3 of my cars , since 1992.