Does anyone know how the Dana (not Salisbury) output flange studs are retained in the flange? They do not appear to be welded, and I'm hoping they are just pressed in and can be removed with an air hammer.
I've converted to outboard rear brake discs on my '87, and some material on the stepped center needs to be removed from the flange so I can get the correct amount of negative camber. If I can remove the studs in the car, I can use a cut off wheel on an angle grinder to remove a portion of the step.

 

I will check tomorrow if nobody else replies. I am pretty sure they are push-fitted though. Whatever the system is, it will be the same as on the Salisbury diffs.
One other way of achieving your objective would be to just use a thinner spacer. The outboard cars had to have a spacer in place of the thickness of the (no longer there) inboard disc. It would e easier and maybe safer to get that spacer milled thinner.

 

I have all kinds of spacers. The fact is the spacer locating step in the center of the output flange is too high, and interferes with the step on the halfshaft flange. As a result, with all spacers removed, I still can't get enough negative camber, and I end up with a large gap between the mating aurfaces of the flanges. The halfshafts for outboard disc cars are completely different than inboard halfshafts, and are effectively longer when installed the make up for the loss of the inboard discs. I need to remove about .080" of the step. I won't touch the mating aurfaces at all.

 

Try writing ICSAmerica... I understand he has had past success at converting to an outboard break set up...

 

Greg is correct.
Push on, like any wheel stud, with a knurled section just under the head for flange grip.

My memory is off, but I dont think?? there is enough room between the rear face of that flange and the bearing housing to remove those studs, BUT, its been YEARS, and I cannot find my :spare: Salisbury stub, so it is a best guess on my part.

 

On the Dana, there is one spot in the flange rotation where I think I can sneak out the studs one at a time if I clock the flange to that position for each stud. It's a different set up than the Salisbury.

 

I really would not do that. All you have to do is undo three fixing bolts into the diff and the entire stub axle just pulls out. Then you can work more easily, and without any danger to the diff casing, on the bench.

THis nis the DANA stub axle when unbolted.

The studs can be pressed out.

 

Thanks for that. Unfortunately, I already pressed out the studs on one side with an air chisel with a hammer tip. I cut off the step with a 4.5" angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I'll probably use your method on the other side.

 

They do punch out. I broke one off when I was removing my cage when I rebuilt it. Was able to order new ones from sng.

 

I took the stub axle assembly out of the other side of the diff today. Very easy to do. I got the studs out, but ran out of time today to cut the step off. Thanks for letting me know how easy this is to do. It will make cutting the step off far easier, and I won't have iron dust falling in my face while doing it.