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Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible

XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible

 
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:40 PM
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Default Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible

Tried to change the trans pan without lowering the mount. It just wouldn't budge. Had to use a c clamp to pull the exhaust over to even get to the trans pan bolts. So I went after the mount. Everything went we except now the bracket is blocked by the c clamp and a bunch of spacers and stuff fell out. I'm loosing it!
 
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:16 PM
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Awesome! Finally all apart and I need a thin **** socket? Ahhhh
 
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:00 PM
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Would help to create a signature with your MY. Either that, or you have to remember to tell everyone what car and engine you have in EVERY
POST
YOU
MAKE

Until then, you'll get half assed guessed responses or thread takeovers.

Create your signature. Do it now. Like, right now. You'll get good help as a result.
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Vee View Post
Would help to create a signature with your MY. Either that, or you have to remember to tell everyone what car and engine you have in EVERY
POST
YOU
MAKE

Until then, you'll get half assed guessed responses or thread takeovers.

Create your signature. Do it now. Like, right now. You'll get good help as a result.
I've been using the mobile site the whole time. I didn't even know signatures existed.

Anyway long story short and more hours I've ever spent on a project... it's done.
Horrible just horrible job! Pic below is the final shot at getting the mount back in place before I launched the car into a lake. One jack pushing the trans up and another pushing the mount up and a C-clamp holding the exhaust over just enough to get it in. It actually took away a little bit of my love of tinkering on cars...it'll pass by tomorrow.
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:41 AM
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This is unfortunately too late to help you, but in case anyone searching the archives comes across this thread, there is a "safe and sane" way of doing this job:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/

Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread.
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mac Allan View Post
Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread.

Done.
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Norri View Post
Done.
In the Hall of Fame at last!
But could I please respectfully ask that the links in the Sticky have their titles clarified? It is not possible (on my PC at least) to know what many of them are about without opening them first, which rather spoils the point of their being there. These links are examples of my point:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-115344/ cybercg
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...basics-178059/ Doug
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...98/#post413940 by Christian 96 XJR


Greg
 

Last edited by Greg in France; 04-18-2017 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac Allan View Post
This is unfortunately too late to help you, but in case anyone searching the archives comes across this thread, there is a "safe and sane" way of doing this job:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/

Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread.
i wasn't expecting to have to drop the mount. I was really hoping I could wiggle the pan out. And I was warned earlier about some markets having to deal with the exhaust in the way... I was in that lucky market! 😠 Oh well it's done... on to the next
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 944xjs View Post
I've been using the mobile site the whole time. I didn't even know signatures existed.

Anyway long story short and more hours I've ever spent on a project... it's done.
Horrible just horrible job! Pic below is the final shot at getting the mount back in place before I launched the car into a lake. One jack pushing the trans up and another pushing the mount up and a C-clamp holding the exhaust over just enough to get it in. It actually took away a little bit of my love of tinkering on cars...it'll pass by tomorrow.
As Grant would advise have a good stiff drink.

I also have the issue of no signature on posts I do from my mobile device.
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by warrjon View Post
As Grant would advise have a good stiff drink.

I also have the issue of no signature on posts I do from my mobile device.
yeah I was going to have a beer but I was too tired
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:15 PM
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TOO TIRED for a beer.

MAAAAAAAATE you need another Jag, and a V12 for sure.

Remove that STUPID collision bracket nonsense, and the pan will simply fall off when the bolts are removed.

Realigning the exhaust when a hoist is avaiable would be a good "to do list" addition.
 

Last edited by Grant Francis; 04-18-2017 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis View Post
TOO TIRED for a beer.

MAAAAAAAATE you need another Jag, and a V12 for sure.

Remove that STUPID collision bracket nonsense, and the pan will simply fall off when the bolts are removed.

Realigning the exhaust when a hoist is avaiable would be a good "to do list" addition.
Well the good news is is that the new gasket and some rtv seem to have stopped the leak. And this
jag is more than enough! I haven't even gotten to touch my 944 this year.
 
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:56 PM
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Just a lovely thing to see. I was able to snug that bolt down a bit more and hopefully that fixes the small drip. If not I'm going to put some sort of sealant around that area I'll be damned if I take it all apart again!
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:02 AM
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I'm fairly tolerant of minor oil leaks. Effort-vs-benefit and all that.

As for leaking transmission pans......

My personal experience is that chronic leakers are often the fault of the pan itself. The mating surface is often distorted around each bolt hole. Sometime these distortions can be hammered flat again.

Or sometimes the entire pan is 'racked' or tweaked. Put it on a perfectly flat surface to check.

I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug View Post
I'm fairly tolerant of minor oil leaks. Effort-vs-benefit and all that.

As for leaking transmission pans......

My personal experience is that chronic leakers are often the fault of the pan itself. The mating surface is often distorted around each bolt hole. Sometime these distortions can be hammered flat again.

Or sometimes the entire pan is 'racked' or tweaked. Put it on a perfectly flat surface to check.

I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400.

Cheers
DD
by the outside look of the pan it looks like it's seen some wear in its life. I gave it a look when it was out and tried to make sure everything was level... I guess such a small distortion is going to be hard to catch. What an annoyance
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:35 AM
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NO gasket at all stopped all mine leaking 100%.

Hi-Temp RTV, done and dusted.
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis View Post
NO gasket at all stopped all mine leaking 100%.

Hi-Temp RTV, done and dusted.
i used blue rtv and gasket.
Thinking about shooting some of this at it.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...t-leak-repair/
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:31 PM
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Flat vs flat works. If either is warped or deformed, only huge luck will aid.


Early on, mentor taught me about deformed tin around the holes that the fasteners go in to. Unneeded gorilla arm torque the usual culprit. Fix: Use a socket as a backer and tap the high around the hole down to match the rest. If one chooses, gasket sealer, best applied to the tin only to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Snug on the bolts is adequate. Super tight defeats the gasket!!


Way back when My T roadster had an issue with what I thought was the head gasket. NLA at the time!!!! Much teen adventure with a leaky car that might fire on 2 or 3 of it's 4!!!


Off with it's head for the umpteenth time. Not hard to do !!!! Set it down on a concrete surface. Wowee, it rocks like a boat!!! Went to my stash and got another head. Tried on the same surface. Huge difference!!!! Only a slight "wiggle' if any!!!
Used the copper/asbestos sandwich gasket. Bolted it on. Just yanked the bolts tight.
A torque wrench an unknown at the time. But tightening sequence, definitely, courtesy of Dyke's Automobile Encyclopedia. Hurrah, no coolant seep. Cranked it up, old tech, teen arm power. It fired and chuckled happily as a good "T" should 1!!


Carl
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug View Post
I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400.
This is what all TH400 owners need Doug. The Moroso welded aluminium pan, Just as you describe with a much more rigid flange and drain plugs at the lowest end. Superb
Greg
 
Attached Thumbnails Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible-img_3083.jpg   Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible-img_3092.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad View Post
Flat vs flat works. If either is warped or deformed, only huge luck will aid.


Early on, mentor taught me about deformed tin around the holes that the fasteners go in to. Unneeded gorilla arm torque the usual culprit. Fix: Use a socket as a backer and tap the high around the hole down to match the rest. If one chooses, gasket sealer, best applied to the tin only to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Snug on the bolts is adequate. Super tight defeats the gasket!!


Way back when My T roadster had an issue with what I thought was the head gasket. NLA at the time!!!! Much teen adventure with a leaky car that might fire on 2 or 3 of it's 4!!!


Off with it's head for the umpteenth time. Not hard to do !!!! Set it down on a concrete surface. Wowee, it rocks like a boat!!! Went to my stash and got another head. Tried on the same surface. Huge difference!!!! Only a slight "wiggle' if any!!!
Used the copper/asbestos sandwich gasket. Bolted it on. Just yanked the bolts tight.
A torque wrench an unknown at the time. But tightening sequence, definitely, courtesy of Dyke's Automobile Encyclopedia. Hurrah, no coolant seep. Cranked it up, old tech, teen arm power. It fired and chuckled happily as a good "T" should 1!!


Carl
yeah im guessing they were torqued down too tight. In reality though...I wasn't sure myself how much to tighten them. Everyone just says "snug"..that can mean anything. It wouldn't be such a big deal if that trans mount wasn't there. Drop the pan and replace or fix. I'm not dropping that thing again!
 

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