Hi,

I have removed both fans since they were not working and have ordered new Relays, Darlingtons, resistors, and diodes. When I put 12V directly to the pass. side motor directly, it works. The drivers side fan was seized, so I totally get why it didn't work.

Anyway, I have the Delanair Mark III introduction PDF. I understand that the motors will not run until the coolant temp is at a certain temp. Does manual mode override that and run the motors at the selected speed? I am just wondering if I need a warm engine to test fan functionality, or will manual mode let me test the fans.

I am still waiting for my injectors, and rail to come back from Dave in Jacksonville, and also have my fuel tank and sump out for KBS treatment. Once the tank, sump, injectors and hoses are new, I'll hopefully be able to get it all up to temp.

My concern about the HVAC system is that when removing the pass side fan, one of the connectors to the controller board was disconnected. At first I thought that might be my problem, but it wasn't so I resumed removing the fans. I now wonder if a PO was attempting to troubleshoot the thing.

Time will tell.

Thanks.

Bill.

 

As I recall the pull-for-manual mode does not defeat the coolant temp switch.

For testing you can select max cooling (which ignores the reading from the coolant temp switch) or remove the two wires from the switch and jump them together

Cheers
DD

 

Thank you,

So isn't the coolant temp switch for the HVAC on the right side of the engine, vs the coolant temp sensor on the left side that the ECU uses?

Just making sure.

Bill.

 

No.

The coolant temp switch for the Delanair system is under the dashboard on one of the pipes to the heater core. If you remove the left side knee bolster panel, sorta crawl into the footwell, and look up....you'll see it. Roughly above he throttle pedal.

Cheers
DD

 

Sounds good.

Thanks.

 

Hi Bill

The Delanair Introduction PDF you have is a great tool for diagnosing faults. I used it to great success. Re-install all connectors and go through the document from the start.

Be very careful NOT to short any of the pins on the test connector or you could fry the AC controller PCB. I used special pin connectors (I have from work) but you can use the female pins from a small automotive 2 pin plug of the correct size and wire. Use electrical tape to insulate the pin and connect the DVM to the other end of the wire.

 

The PDF mentions an AMP 87175/3 fitted over the the "test pins". Are the test pins they refer to different than the pins the three connectors go to?

I saw pictures of the AMP part number. I thought the AMP part fit in between the connectors and the board and allowed you to probe in to the pins you want to test.

Perhaps I am missing something.

Bill.

 

My memory is being taxed so I had to dig out an old Delanair-III ECU to check :-)

As I thought there are two parallel rows of pins.

The harness connectors remain connected, as normal, to one row of pins.

The second row of pins is used for testing.....'test pins'. The 'AMP' gadgets fits over the second row of pins. This provides a barrier between the pins so your test probe doesn't accidentally touch two at once

Cheers
DD

 

Perfect!

Thank you guys. Very helpful.

Bill.

 

Doug is correct the test pins are parallel to the 3 white connectors.

If you do not have the AMP plug use a test connector pin as I said before.

 

Don't bother doing the tests before cleaning the grounds (as I recall, one main ground on each of the two vertical dashboard supports on either side of the climate control case) and cleaning the 6 or 7 (or so) tiny wiring connectors to the servo motors, etc. Just look for the tiny wires and you'll find the tiny connectors....quite possibly badly corroded. As I recall they're all fairly easy to reach except one....which is on the left side of the case, up high....in the area of the heater pipes.

Sometimes cleaning the grounds and connectors is all that's needed to make everything operate correctly but, if even not, you can't accurate test readings if they're dirty or corroded.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks.

While we're at it, can you tell me how to remove the face plate of the HVAC controls. I was trying to remove the center console. I'm not sure how the radio/HVAC controls interact with the center console. I don't want to destroy anything.

Thanks.