I am refurbishing the entire fuel system with new hoses. I pulled the fuel rail and the EFI's to facilitate the work. All new hoses are installed with cleaned ferrules.
EFI's were all soaked, cleaned and pressure spray tested. Three pintel caps had to be replaced. Warming them up with a hair dryer is necessary.

Q: When the fuel rail came off the pintel pins were all protruding a bit. (they are sharp) Then at one point they all retracted. On advice I connected each EFI to a 9V battery. I have spark, I can hear a click but the pin does not extend or retract, close/open.

Am I good or is there something else I need to check/do?

Second: Finally got the second brake pad broke free from the disc on the spare IRS. Both calipers are removed with brake lines, Shocks are gone. Drive shafts are unbolted from the differential. Had four (4) shims on each. Diff is removed from the cage. Wishbone arms are off. Ready for complete rebuild including new Diff fluid after thorough cleaning and new paint. Once all is ready will Drop and Swap refurbished IRS with one in car and then do the same to the swapped IRS cage for installation in my friends car.
Entire process seems pretty straight forward and uncomplicated. Am I missing anything or need to be aware of something in particular? Thx.

PS...When the cage comes out the car gets new over the cage fuel line hoses as well.

 

Suggestion: Check the diff seals - especially the outputs for any leaks / weeps / seeps and replace if required.

While my IRS was out, I added the 16mm rear sway bar. I'd do that again. The car feels much more agile and less nose heavy. Not entirely scientific because I also replaced the 4 IRS mounts and 4 radius arm bushes (genuine metalastic) which may help handling also.

Good luck with the project!

Cheers, Dave

 

Well it appears that finding new rear shaft to Diff hub shims may be problematic. Welsh and Moss both say no longer made. Terry's does not list them.

I can try to reuse the ones that came off the unit but a couple of them were damaged or split due to age and corrosion.

 

Do you mean the Half Shaft to Differential Shims? They are common to numerous models and are readily available.

https://www.terrysjag.com/product/C16621.html

Or do you mean something else?

 

Thanks. I'll call them today.
The example they show on the link is 3.25" and is square in basic shape. .020 thick.

The ones off the diff I have are 4" top to bottom and rectangular in shape, with flat ends and curved ends on the sides.
They are paper thin with no marks to verify their thickness.

 

Brad
The fewer shims the more the rear tends to negative camber. Try to get 0.5° negative, as that greatly improves rear end grip. You might not need any, or only one or two.
Moss says they have them:
https://mossmotors.com/c16621jag-cam...sting-shim-020
and Jagbits
https://www.jagbits.com/category/Ser...ension_17.html

 

Greg,

The Diff I am rebuilding (that came off an '88 Hess & Eisenhardt I parted out a couple years ago) had four (4) shims per side.
Will I be able to bench measure the camber before putting the cage back into a car. Special tools needed?
I have the Dana Diff. Why they didn't put a drain plug in these is ridiculous IMO.
NOTE: I am NOT getting into the guts of the Diff. Just replacing the fluid.

 

Brad
You cannot really measure the camber until the cage is in the car and the weight is on the suspenssion. I would remove two shims each side before you put the cage back in.
Measuring camber is dead easy. Buy an el cheapo electronic angle gauge and a piece of ally square tube and cut the tube so it can just fit on the wheel rim, as per this photo:

 

Thanks Greg,

That all appears to be very doable - even for me.

 

Update.

Per the suggestion of Adam on a recent Living with a Classic video, and probably others on this forum, after thorough cleaning, power wash and wire brushing I painted the cage, half shafts and covers, and Diff with gloss black RustOleum using a brush. Looks really good.

The old disc's were badly frozen to the pads. Took months to break them free. Calipers are toast. Not even contemplating rebuilding them. Inquired about having the old disc's turned. Local shops want about $175 to do this. Probably cheaper to just get new ones. The car is getting new shocks, calipers and flexible brake line hoses all around. Bump stops are all in good shape.

 

Get rebuilt calipers and new discs from Rock Auto. Be sure to get correct discs for your diff, Salisbury or Dana. The access holes in the two versions are different. I've had good luck with their rebuilt calipers. Also get new parking brake pads. The brass parking brake calipers forks MUST be replaced when you put in new pads; they deform as the parking brake pads wear. Get those from a Jaguar parts specialist.