emergency (parking) brake
I just bought a 1989 XJS. The parking (emergency) light on the instrument panel stays illuminated when the car is running. The parking (emergency) brake handle doesn't appear to to work. I don't mind the light staying on or the emergency (parking) brake not working. My concern is: which mode is it in? I don't want to drive with the brake on. Any ideas? Thanks, sincerely - "New To The Jag World" . . . . . . .
Hi Marty
From your description its sounding like the Parking Brake is Still on
This is a 'Fly Off' Handbrake, like on the early 'Minis' so what you need to do is Press the Button and then while keeping the Button Pressed, pull it up just enough to take it over the 'dog' then Still while holding the Button Pressed, drop the Handbrake Lever very Smartly and the Handbrake should disengage and the Light Should go out
When you put the Handbrake on, no need to Press the Button just pull it up enough to put the Brake on
But Do Not over pull it, as you need to leave a little Slack to 'Tension' the Cable when you take it off
From your description its sounding like the Parking Brake is Still on
This is a 'Fly Off' Handbrake, like on the early 'Minis' so what you need to do is Press the Button and then while keeping the Button Pressed, pull it up just enough to take it over the 'dog' then Still while holding the Button Pressed, drop the Handbrake Lever very Smartly and the Handbrake should disengage and the Light Should go out
When you put the Handbrake on, no need to Press the Button just pull it up enough to put the Brake on
But Do Not over pull it, as you need to leave a little Slack to 'Tension' the Cable when you take it off
Hi Stefan
Could be either a Broken or Stuck Micro-switch under the Handbrake Lever or you are being a bit to Gentle with the Handbrake Lever when you Lower it down
It's a 'Fly Off' Handbrake like they used on early 'Minis'
Push the Button and then Lift it up just enough to disengage the 'Dog'
Then Still Keeping the Button Pushed, either 'Smartly Drop it' or even 'Slam it down'
But when you put the Handbrake 'ON' do the 'Polar Opposite' and do not Push the Button, so that you can hear the 'Ratchet Clicking' as you (This Time Gently!) pull it up and do not pull it up to far, as if the Ratchet goes past the 'Dog' then you will have an even Bigger Problem to Sort out!
So Big it will have you reaching for a Bottle of JD! as you may have to dismantle all of the Handbrake Mechanism to Fix it
Many of us use give the Handbrake just a Couple of Clicks to lower the Soft Top (if you have a Convertible obvs)
Or else just to Pass the MOT Test as we have in the UK with Instructions to the 'Tester' to be very Careful and just give it a Quick 'Dab' on Pain of losing the Bottle of 'Plonk' that I usually give him at Christmas
Because the 'Rolling Road' Test can Rip the Handbrake Pads from their Backing Plates and literally leave you with the 'Job from Hell' and that is one of the Reasons why Greg and myself make our own, so that they are as 'Bullet Proof' as can be!
Making My Own Handbrake Brake Pads + How to Set up the Rear Rotors and Calipers
Could be either a Broken or Stuck Micro-switch under the Handbrake Lever or you are being a bit to Gentle with the Handbrake Lever when you Lower it down
It's a 'Fly Off' Handbrake like they used on early 'Minis'
Push the Button and then Lift it up just enough to disengage the 'Dog'
Then Still Keeping the Button Pushed, either 'Smartly Drop it' or even 'Slam it down'
But when you put the Handbrake 'ON' do the 'Polar Opposite' and do not Push the Button, so that you can hear the 'Ratchet Clicking' as you (This Time Gently!) pull it up and do not pull it up to far, as if the Ratchet goes past the 'Dog' then you will have an even Bigger Problem to Sort out!
So Big it will have you reaching for a Bottle of JD! as you may have to dismantle all of the Handbrake Mechanism to Fix it
Many of us use give the Handbrake just a Couple of Clicks to lower the Soft Top (if you have a Convertible obvs)
Or else just to Pass the MOT Test as we have in the UK with Instructions to the 'Tester' to be very Careful and just give it a Quick 'Dab' on Pain of losing the Bottle of 'Plonk' that I usually give him at Christmas
Because the 'Rolling Road' Test can Rip the Handbrake Pads from their Backing Plates and literally leave you with the 'Job from Hell' and that is one of the Reasons why Greg and myself make our own, so that they are as 'Bullet Proof' as can be!
Making My Own Handbrake Brake Pads + How to Set up the Rear Rotors and Calipers
Hi Stefan
Could be either a Broken or Stuck Micro-switch under the Handbrake Lever or you are being a bit to Gentle with the Handbrake Lever when you Lower it down
It's a 'Fly Off' Handbrake like they used on early 'Minis'
Push the Button and then Lift it up just enough to disengage the 'Dog'
Then Still Keeping the Button Pushed, either 'Smartly Drop it' or even 'Slam it down'
But when you put the Handbrake 'ON' do the 'Polar Opposite' and do not Push the Button, so that you can hear the 'Ratchet Clicking' as you (This Time Gently!) pull it up and do not pull it up to far, as if the Ratchet goes past the 'Dog' then you will have an even Bigger Problem to Sort out!
So Big it will have you reaching for a Bottle of JD! as you may have to dismantle all of the Handbrake Mechanism to Fix it
Many of us use give the Handbrake just a Couple of Clicks to lower the Soft Top (if you have a Convertible obvs)
Or else just to Pass the MOT Test as we have in the UK with Instructions to the 'Tester' to be very Careful and just give it a Quick 'Dab' on Pain of losing the Bottle of 'Plonk' that I usually give him at Christmas
Because the 'Rolling Road' Test can Rip the Handbrake Pads from their Backing Plates and literally leave you with the 'Job from Hell' and that is one of the Reasons why Greg and myself make our own, so that they are as 'Bullet Proof' as can be!
Making My Own Handbrake Brake Pads + How to Set up the Rear Rotors and Calipers
Could be either a Broken or Stuck Micro-switch under the Handbrake Lever or you are being a bit to Gentle with the Handbrake Lever when you Lower it down
It's a 'Fly Off' Handbrake like they used on early 'Minis'
Push the Button and then Lift it up just enough to disengage the 'Dog'
Then Still Keeping the Button Pushed, either 'Smartly Drop it' or even 'Slam it down'
But when you put the Handbrake 'ON' do the 'Polar Opposite' and do not Push the Button, so that you can hear the 'Ratchet Clicking' as you (This Time Gently!) pull it up and do not pull it up to far, as if the Ratchet goes past the 'Dog' then you will have an even Bigger Problem to Sort out!
So Big it will have you reaching for a Bottle of JD! as you may have to dismantle all of the Handbrake Mechanism to Fix it
Many of us use give the Handbrake just a Couple of Clicks to lower the Soft Top (if you have a Convertible obvs)
Or else just to Pass the MOT Test as we have in the UK with Instructions to the 'Tester' to be very Careful and just give it a Quick 'Dab' on Pain of losing the Bottle of 'Plonk' that I usually give him at Christmas
Because the 'Rolling Road' Test can Rip the Handbrake Pads from their Backing Plates and literally leave you with the 'Job from Hell' and that is one of the Reasons why Greg and myself make our own, so that they are as 'Bullet Proof' as can be!
Making My Own Handbrake Brake Pads + How to Set up the Rear Rotors and Calipers
The switch is not broken and the silver contact is working. The switch has three wires. I try to change one with another but i didn't help.
My first thought... where I would begin, is to check the operation and adjustment of the microswitch.
Open and close the switch by hand, while connected to the harness. Does the light go on and off? Then, when operating the lever, does the hand brake lever appropriately open and close the switch?
It's the switch that illuminates the light, not the adjustment/operation of the pads. The pads can be working correctly (or not), independent of the switch itself, which is solely dependent on the operation of the lever. In theory, the lever correctly operates the pads (the important thing), and also turns the switch on and off. It can correctly operate the pads, but not the switch, or it can operate the switch, but not the pads, or operate the switch and the pads, or operate neither the switch nor the pads. The appropriate fix is dependent on the appropriate condition.
Open and close the switch by hand, while connected to the harness. Does the light go on and off? Then, when operating the lever, does the hand brake lever appropriately open and close the switch?
It's the switch that illuminates the light, not the adjustment/operation of the pads. The pads can be working correctly (or not), independent of the switch itself, which is solely dependent on the operation of the lever. In theory, the lever correctly operates the pads (the important thing), and also turns the switch on and off. It can correctly operate the pads, but not the switch, or it can operate the switch, but not the pads, or operate the switch and the pads, or operate neither the switch nor the pads. The appropriate fix is dependent on the appropriate condition.
My first thought... where I would begin, is to check the operation and adjustment of the microswitch.
Open and close the switch by hand, while connected to the harness. Does the light go on and off? Then, when operating the lever, does the hand brake lever appropriately open and close the switch?
It's the switch that illuminates the light, not the adjustment/operation of the pads. The pads can be working correctly (or not), independent of the switch itself, which is solely dependent on the operation of the lever. In theory, the lever correctly operates the pads (the important thing), and also turns the switch on and off. It can correctly operate the pads, but not the switch, or it can operate the switch, but not the pads, or operate the switch and the pads, or operate neither the switch nor the pads. The appropriate fix is dependent on the appropriate condition.
Open and close the switch by hand, while connected to the harness. Does the light go on and off? Then, when operating the lever, does the hand brake lever appropriately open and close the switch?
It's the switch that illuminates the light, not the adjustment/operation of the pads. The pads can be working correctly (or not), independent of the switch itself, which is solely dependent on the operation of the lever. In theory, the lever correctly operates the pads (the important thing), and also turns the switch on and off. It can correctly operate the pads, but not the switch, or it can operate the switch, but not the pads, or operate the switch and the pads, or operate neither the switch nor the pads. The appropriate fix is dependent on the appropriate condition.
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