I was surprised that the ball joints did not come with nuts. I will take it with me to fit nut. It cut pretty easy with dremel.
Thank you Greg in France.

 

All finished, car drives great.
I want to thank you all for the help and a special thanks to (Greg In France) and (Jagboi64) without it I might not have done it and if I did would have probably got hurt.

 

I have to replace my upper bushings as well. Because the upper arms are split, by unbolting each side from the upper ball joint, can I just remove each arm from its own side without having to remove the upper cross bar, thus not having to disturb the shims? I assume that when each arm is removed after unbolting the left and right side, the bushes can just be installed on each upper arm and then simply re-slid back on to its peg and re-secured. Is this the normal procedure to not have to remove the upper cross support?

 

I assume you are talking about the castor shims in the upper ball joint, there should be 4 shims, take note of where they are. But basically yes pull one arm off at a time. You do not need to undo the upper fulcrum from the subframe.

When you install the new bushes use soapy water NOT oil as the ROM recommends. Oil can reduce the life of the rubber and the E Type ROM recommended soapy water, I got this from a friend of mine who was a Jaguar technician.

I just did my lower bushes and with soapy water you can push the bushes in by hand, in fact one popped back out again

 

Thanks. I was really asking about not having to remove the upper fulcrum shaft. Didn't recall the actual part name. And yes, on replacing ball joint caster shims as well. I might as well replace the upper ball joint while dong the upper bushings too. The lowers seem ok.. Just the uppers were moving in and out and I can see a bit of negative camber because of it. When I hit a small bump on the right side, the steering kicks right and now I can see why.

 

You do not have to remove or touch the upper wishbone fulcrum. You just undo the nut holding the wishbone arms each end of the fulcrum and slide the arm and bush off.
You do have to have the weight of the car on the lower wishbone though, so as to be certain the spring remains compressed, and be SURE the bump stops are NOT in contact with the subframe, before you undo the balljoint.

 

You're talking about these bumpstops?

Yes, I will have the jack positioned under the spring plate effectively taking weight/pressure off of the hub and upper wishbone/balljoint assembly.
Thanks

 

You're talking about the bumpstops under the upper wishbones?


Yes, I will have the jack positioned under the spring plate effectively taking weight/pressure off of the hub and upper wishbone/balljoint assembly.
Thanks

 

Yes
You will have to jack up that corner quite high to get the bumpstops free. Ensure you put blocks or a secure jackstand under the sprinpan as well as the jack.

 

Greg, you mention "You will have to jack up that corner quite high to get the bumpstops free." Aren't the bumpstops already free with weight on wheels or when lifting/supporting from below the spring plates? When you're lifting from the springplates, the car doesn't know if it's on the ground or supported by the jack just under the spring so I would think the bumpstops would already be free. What am I missing.

 

When the lifting point is under the spring pan, rather than further outboard under the hub, the leverage applied to the spring is reduced. You have to remove the wheel, obviously, to change the upper wishbone bushes and you cannot use the hub as a lifting point, as that will be disconnected. So when you jack up the car under the spring pan, you will find (as you will see if you read through Mac's posts above) that you have to raise that corner quite a bit higher than "normal" to get the bumpstops free - that is, to get the spring compression forces off the top wishbones.

 

Ah, ok, I gotcha. Yes, the further inboard, the less effective compression compared to more outboard. yes,
Thanks for your clarification.