When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I found a C45368 in the US and ordered - very much NLA here in Europe - but I'll have a pattern to make some if I feel so inclined - I can't get my fingers in the gap between down pipe and mount on the drivers side which is what triggered the brain cells.
Are these factory catless downpipes or aftermarket? My experience with the aftermarket set I tried was terrible, they were practically touching. There was no way to make them fit that would meet my expectations. Originals went back on.
These are rather expensive stainless aftermarket items no Cat, part of a larger bore front to back system with no centre boxes. The originals won't be going back on given what I spent on manifolds and exhaust (more than many pay for a whole XJS) - so the mount needs to suck it up - I will protect it using some method, not decided on the exhaust wrap or other methods. I can't afford the temperature in the downpipe where it meets the straight pipes to get past 1030°C - needs to stay below that preferrably 930°C or so due to the presence of a Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband lambda - all part of the plans and the project - just hadn't figured for the proximity of the mount.
I already have the starter (a WOSP unit) wrapped in a CEI blanket.
Apologies to Doug, but i do not think exhaust wrap is advisable. Apparently, somehow, it ruins even stainless pipes rather quickly. OK for race cars, but not for everyday ones.
Attached a photo of the RHS downpipe with the V mount in the background. They are miles apart on my car, I think your aftermarket pipes are wrong, Ben. Why not get someone to cut and shut them, using your old ones as a template? See ringed in red.
Last edited by Greg in France; Sep 10, 2025 at 01:29 PM.
Definitely a bigger bore but they fit fine - your mount looks oddly further forward than mine - I don't have any protection on the rack at the minute. I'll get a pic at the weekend but there will be no more squirrels chased or arms and legs allowed on this project which is becoming one of the trials of Samson
How much space do you have where the pipe crosses the mount - would be nice to get a pic looking at the pipe and the slope of the mount where it sits on the subframe
Last edited by BenKenobi; Sep 10, 2025 at 01:44 PM.
How much space do you have where the pipe crosses the mount - would be nice to get a pic looking at the pipe and the slope of the mount where it sits on the subframe
Right now the old girl is hors de combat as i am struggling to weld up the LHS front jacking point. I'll look though the achive to see if there is a suitable photo, if not allow a couple of weeks before i can get her on the lift.
Further to the above, I have dug up this pic, and it shows how much I can remember! The downpipe looks quite close to the inside rear corner of the V mount. I will have a look at the car tomorrow and report back.
Last edited by Greg in France; Sep 10, 2025 at 02:36 PM.
@nickr76 Interesting. I had fitment issues with the SP downpipes a few years ago and assumed it was down to partially collapsed engine and subframe mounts causing them to rub. My car has yet to go back together but now I'm wondering if there was more to it than that.
And that is precisely my reason for starting this thread, so I guess the next question would be what did you use as an alternate because they're in no danger of touching the body at all and if I heatshield the mounts I think I'll run with them - treat them as if they were cats - which perhaps they were modelled off.
I will take some pics today and send to Ben to see what he thinks but to be honest I am more likely to just roll with them.
So looking at Gregs pic and one I just took shows a similar scenario, and Gregs isn't the same downpipe, perhaps I didn't notice this when tearing down, either way it is staying. And yes I know I messed up my paint - the RH downpipe is an absolute pig to get in without dropping the steering rack. I also know the heat shield isn't installed on the left but thats because I am replacing the engine grounds - not happy with the originals - too stiff and too close to power steering hoses so I will relocate them - stuff ordered but not yet here.
Last edited by BenKenobi; Sep 13, 2025 at 07:44 AM.
Reason: Pics taken ...
Is as new or better like everything else under the car - every nut, bolt, bush, spring ...... only thing I haven't replaced is the body they're bolted too, for sure it was sagging a lot when I started - front subframe has been rebuilt from the ground up, transmission mount and rear end including subframe, diff, output shafts, outer hubs, getting on for 5 years of cussing and crawling around, one setback after another but in too deep to back out.
I had same experience, everything as new on mine as well. Odd though because they have been selling these for a very long time and I was told no fitment issues.