Just want to clarify since I can't really find anything prior to confirm whether a front wing can be removed complete - aka with no cutting of welds etc.

I've removed the three vertical setl tappers at the rear, two at the bottom rear (new language invented for these two - there was no head left and my gas regs busted or I'd have welded a bolt on top), two bolts at the top rear (what a mare they were). front bumper chromes, chin spoiler, 3 self tappers from front valance up to bumper and the sneaky self tapper hiding behind the bonnet hinge - another mare to remove and all the self tappers from the top gulley of the wing. but the wing won't budge.

I really don't want to be cutting if it isn't necessary - and if I must cut WHERE ?? - I do not want to separate the lower front portion and would prefer to remove intact.

I've read a few threads where it has been discussed but many of those describe cutting but aren't entirely clear where - the only place I can see welds is the top and bottom portions of the wing.

 

If i understand you correctly, you have removed all the removable fixings. However, the front side bottom edge (from the wheelarch towards the headlight) is braised partially along that seam to the lower corner panel. This has to separated by heat to melt the braise or by cutting.
BUT, you should be able to make the rest of the wing move if all undone. Probably it has somehow glued itself in place with gunk over the years.

 

I want to leave the lower corner panel in place and just remove the lot - is that possible ?

PPS : Yes to the what can be removed has been removed - unless there are more sneaky ones hidden behind the headlight - I've only removed the surround. I'm trying to avoid a car becoming a pile of parts - this project is getting out of control fast - I told myself I'd recommission stuff and do a rolling rescue - so far there isn't much rolling.

 

I suppose you could remove the lot, but that means removing the lower radiator grille too and quite a bit of undoing of the chin spoiler etc etc. I would not advise it as the chances of bending or creasing something are huge, and reassembly a nightmare of alignment as well as being a three person job. I just cut mine at the braise, then put a steel strap behind it to reassemble; then just smooth it over and repaint. Also a structural adhesive would be fine, for example. By the time the bumper is back on it is all pretty invisible.

 

I shall follow your wisdom and experience. I need to do a fair bit of clean up so the chin spoiler only has 2 screws left, The radiator grille is off already.

The valance that drops down has a lot of surface rust so since the bumper is off it is time to address it - I had slated this for much later in the project.

 

Like Greg, when I needed to remove my RH guard, and waaaaay before computers, so shade tree and beer with a HUGE dose of Common Sense.

When I had off what you have and it woudl not budge, OOPS.

BBQ called with a Keg supplied, and the masses established that the wing had been off before, NO braised joint. Sikaflex in fact.

The top edge where to the inner guard seal is was also Sikaflexed in place. Why the bolts if Sikaflex, the damn thing would NOT move.

Eventually Heat Guns, many hands and melted the Sikaflex, and slowly pulled it away.

I left the lower in place, as the Panel guy who turned up late reckoned removing that was NOT for the DIY, and the damage I had was only the top section.

It was Sikaflexed back on, and as far as I know still attached.

 

I can only see two spots of weld / braze - there is a small 15mm or so at the front just below the headlight and the obvious bit where it meets the arch - although it ain't so obvious where the cut line needs to go - I'll do the shade tree thing and ponder some - I do not want to damage stuff needlessly, Dremel time I think - my angle grinder is way to cumbersome in such a limited space (all you can see is angle grinder) ....

From the back it looks like the headlight stays where it is - from the front it isn't so clear now.

 

Ben,

I had the headlamp out, is was broken, and memory has NO hidden screws in that area, but I stand corrected.

 

There's one screw near the bonnet hinge that can be missed (same level as the 2nd coil).

Tell me - do you make a noise when walking because you must have crystal ***** ... the top of the wing is stuck hard and it looks like it could be something like Sikaflex - even with the bolts out you can't lift it (aka judicious insertion of wood chisel near the front).

 

HAHAHA, I lope along on one leg, and see with one eye, so the world is very different.

As well as the heat gun, we used a few steel putty knife blades, and worked and worked that sicker until it gave way. It took 4 of us about 6 beers each, so 3 hours.

I have the engines out in less time.

Mind you, it took me ALL DAY recently to change the Serpentine belt on the X Type, that is one crazy **** design. Time it does another 100K kms for the next one, I will gone from this world.

 

Well it's off - but that SUCKED ... had to work it from inside - no way to get purchase from the outside - wedge, heat, wedge heat rinse - repeat -

Input much appreciated.