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Revisiting this topic... I have a fuel pump module with a worn out valve. See photo.
It is clogging up the screen on the pump itself. The orange rubber in the check valve is no longer usable. Is there a specific valve I should use in this location. It seems the cheap check valves have too much resistance. I can barely blow air through the one I have.
Is there a way to just do away with this entirely and go with an external pump? Has anyone done this on a facelift?
The dog is as confused as I am. She thinks its a snack:
figuring this all out. Where I am currently at is it possible to buy a replacement gromment for the fuel pump to the fuel pump module (circle at the bottom chown in photo)? Mine is falling apart and its just a matter of time before it starts clogging the fuel pump screen again. I suspect ethanol in fuel these days.
I keep leaning towards going with an external pump and running an R10 hose down into the module. Maybe this is the best long term solution.
I am no expert on the in-tank pump. However, if the pump itself is working and no replacement parts are available for the valve, you could definitely fit an external check valve in the pipe between the pump and the fuel rail. The nearer the pump probably the better. Summit racing etc have them, but buy a decent quality one.
Greg
The pump is relatively new. My only concern now is the dried out rubber holding the pump in the module. For now I am just going to put it back in there. Eventually I may go with an external pump, get all of the rubber out of the tank with some sort of custom set up and upgrade the hoses to R10.
I plan on keeping this car for a while. Its a daily driver. One day it will be electric, when the bottom end goes on the engine.
Eventually I may go with an external pump, get all of the rubber out of the tank with some sort of custom set up and upgrade the hoses to R10.
Not a bad plan; but be careful of one thing. I did this on a Range Rover that I dropped a more modern fuel injected engine into, and the problem was a second's hesitation when flooring it, as the pump which was about 3 feet from the tank, could pump faster than the column of fuel could get moving down the pipe between the tank and the pump. This section of the fuel column being driven by atmospheric pressure rather than pump pressure. I solved it in the end by installing a very wide bore, relatively soft walled pipe between the tank and the pump, which acted as a reservoir for the pump for the needed second or two. As long as the external pump is below or at the bottom of the level of the tank, and you have a wide pipe feeding it, or the pump mounted in a swirl pot (effectively a mini in-tank setup) you will be OK.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; Jun 13, 2016 at 02:26 AM.
For now I went with this, which I am thinking of putting in the tank itself. Any reason why this is a bad idea? I think it will just fit with a couple bends.
I heated the tubing and this is as far as I could get it on. I plan on clamping the very end (closest to the valve) to ensure it cannot pull off.
I cannot see any reason why not to put the whole lot in the tank and that would be just about identical to the original setup. Of course if there is a problem you will not be able to see what is wrong. You could perhaps try it outside first and see if it works OK? The check valve is nicely close to the pump, which is the main thing.
Greg
Fuel Pump Module
