Hi guys, just bought my XJS 1992, 5.3
Quite a big fuel smell in the cabing coming from the trunk, i checked the fuel tank, looks good, but i can hear the smell coming from sending unit on top (i have internal fuel pump tank) , so i blew some compressed air in the tank from outside, and by spraying some soap water on the sending unit was watching where the air is coming out, it turned out thats electrical connector plug, and it fills a bit loosу.

So, long story short, am i on the right track? Should i get the tank out to check the connector and probably replace the seal? (no idea whats underneath)
The only way is to remove the tank?

Thanks

P.S cant see fuel line and return from the trunk, are they underneath the car? so i have to lift the car up to remove the tank?

 

hey forum, any tips?

 

I have no direct experince with the XJS in-tank pump set-up but anything feeling a bit loose needs to be fixed. Just the slightest leak can cause a big smell in the tight confines of the trunk.

I'm working on an old Corvette with similar issue: a fuel leak at the electric pass-through at the sending unit. The fix is to simply replace the sending unit. Not sure what a fix would be on your car.

I'm guessing the wiring pass-through is at item #3 in this illustration:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

It appears the part is NLA from Jaguar.

I'd be tempted to conjure up a way of sealing the pass-through. JB Weld comes to mind but there might be better choices for a gasoline-rich environment.

That's all I got at the moment

Cheers
DD

 

Typically its the large round gasket that seals the tank to sending unit atop of the tank. My car smells like fuel every time I step into it and the smell goes away once I start driving. It doesnt bother me but it would if it were happening as I drove. Every XJS Ive owned and driven smells like fuel due to that gasket. Women seem love the smell of my car for some dumb reason. But thats no reason to keep going like that

 

Hi, I have a 92 face lift model. The fuel lines exit through the bottom left of the tank via flex hoses to a filter forward of the left rear wheel. In later models the fuel filter got moved behind the front right fender well on US models. My experience with fuel smells are the following: 1) Fuel sending unit gasket very slow leak evident by dried up residue on the tank; 2) Leaky gas cap (Jaguar still used some vintage gas cap design which will leak fumes. I modified the filler neck to accept a modern standard threaded gas cap; 3) leaky fuel regulator in engine bay; 4) leaky fuel hoses on left side fender under air cleaner( hard to see, take off the air cleaner box); leaky fuel pulsation damper ( it is tied in with the fuel return at same place as mention in #4).

 

this is what im thinking to do as well, thanks! Just wondering if i seal the connector completely, wont it be a problem in the future if i need access it?

 

the problem, that this gasket is not for sale now, absolutely impossible to find or very expensive(

 

in my case its for sure evaporative flange that sits on top, more precisely connector thats sits on the flange and its loose(.
just not sure how to fix it, since you cant just buy that flange, neither seals,

 

Does it smell like raw fuel while driving? If the answer is no, just drive it. Otherwise if its smelling all of the time, you will have to contact a racing company to help with making custom seals. Expensive shouldnt be a concern if youre able to afford an XJS.

 

i wouldnt bother if it wont smell inside, but it is, more you drive the worse.

 

Yeah thats a real pain. If I fill the tank to full capacity it will smell while I drive and I cant stand it. So I just dont fill it all the way. Gotta keep trying and find a way to cap it somehow, but first pinpoint the source.

 

If you search my posts, I'm pretty sure I give dimensions on the gasket ring. Buy a small sheet of Viton and you should be good to go.

You will not need to remove, or pull out the tank. I would also get some Gates Barricade hoses in various sizes. If you're gonna do this, might as well replace the hoses. There will be one that will be a problem. The one that comes off of the flange, has tow different sized ends. I forget which one I used, but I ended up boiling the hose in water to get it as flexible as possible, then I was able to squeeze it in place. I would recommend doing this while the flange assembly is off the car. I recall that being the side with the large opening, so attaching it to the outgoing pipe can be done when everything is in place.

So you'll want to cut out a gasket, but some Gates Barricade hoses, and lastly, it was recommended that you have fuel injection hose clamps, in lieu of the standard hose clamps. I can't think of anything else if that's the only part you're attacking.

If you want a "while you're there" job, then perhaps replace the o-ring and rubber boot where the fuel filler connects to the tank.

 

oh, thats so helpful, thanks. You mentioned there is no need to pull the tank out, how is that possible, i can even imagine getting my hand there. I mean, i can only think of turning the flange and get it out, if nothing underneath can block it.

unfortunately couldnt find any photos of what is underneath the flange.

 

You'll be going in through the trunk. Remove the spare tire and as much of the carpet panels as possible.

Once you unbolt the 13 bolts holding the metal plate in place, without removing, or even disconnecting the hydraulic pump for the roof, you will be able to move it out of the way enough to work on. You will want to disconnect and remove the battery.

There is a lockring that you'll need to undo, but with a hammer and some kind of chisel, you will be able to remove it and then fit your hands in there. It's completely doable. You won't be replacing anything inside the tank, but you will have enough access to get to the lockring and remove the the gasket and evap flange.