Well, had our car for about three weeks now.Found one it's funny little quirks today..When the gas gauge reads between a quarter and a half ,it's actually EMPTY..Just thankful it happened in the garage ,when I was moving it,rather than coming home from a car show we attended Friday evening.Friday evening is when we discovered the dash lights don't all work.A bit of a glimmer can be seen in one of the gauges ,so bulb replacement should be in order.Hope to get to the non operating rear passenger window to go up and down also.So it goes.

 

On general principle: Pull the cluster (not very difficult) to clean all on the contact points on the printed circuit, clean the harness connectors, replace bulbs, and then add a redundant ground. Good things almost always result from this.


More often than not the sending unit is at fault when gas gauge problems come up but it's easily checked. Pull the light green.orange wire off of the sending unit. Turn key "on". Gauge needle should drop to empty. Now touch the wire to ground. Gauge should go right to the top. Assuming this happens, your sending unit is faulty

Cheers
DD

 

Is there a write-up handing on pulling the cluster? I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but my gas gauge never reads completely full and I've had the sensor in the tank replaced. Generally my gauge reads 3/4 full when it's full, 1/4 full when it's half full (or half empty, depending on your disposition) and, presumably, empty when it's still got 1/4 tank, but I never let it get that far down.

My trip computer is bang on accurate so I have another way to keep an eye on the situation but it would be nice to have a gas gauge that's more than just ornamental.

 

Great advice..Will do And Thank you

 

hey Rhett. I took my sensor in the trunk out and moved it up and down to see, where the gauge was showing.
to make sure the sensor was working ok.
that could give you a base on we're your readings are.
does the low fuel light over come on?
also taking the cluster out is easy.

 

The one time it ran out of gas was when the body shop had it for 3 months and ran it dry before giving it back to me. I believe the low fuel light was on, yes.

 

If you have facelift car and the gauge under-reads, it's far more likely to be the anti-slosh module than the sender which is at fault.

To verify, bypass the module by directly connecting a wire across the sender input voltage and the gauge output voltage terminals on the a-s module holder.

Paul

 

The gauge is almost certainly the reason for the under reading as you have. Renewed the sender. Palm very good on fixing The gauge. Basically, corrosion in The gauge causes it.
Greg

 

Your sending unit float is probably taking on fuel. Mine was too. Here's how I fixed it for less than $10.
https://xjsonabudget.wordpress.com/2...g-unit-repair/

You should just clean the contacts on the gauges regardless though
Make sure the steering wheel pad is horizontal with larger opening on top.
Unscrew both screws on the sides of the gauge surround, and the third at the top, remove all three trim pieces. (it may help to pull the screws above the Headlight and ignition switches)
Pull both caps at the sides of the warning lights (They look like delete plates for other lights) they should pop right out.
Unscrew the 4 screw in the cavities you’ve exposed
Loosen adjustment ring on steering wheel and pull wheel towards you as far as it will go
Gently pry IP from housing
Disconnect both wiring pigtails
Pull IP out through large opening of steering wheel being very cautious of the printed circuit, damage that and it’s curtains for your IP.
Spray connectors for wiring pigtails and their receptacles on the back of the IP with CRC cleaner and use Q-Tips to gently remove tarnish.
If any of the copper contacts on the Pigtail receptacles are coming up dab a little school glue under them. If they’re torn they can be repaired with conductive tape or tinfoil.
If the lamination of the printed circuit is separating spray a little CRC into the split and apply a bit of double sided tape over the copper lines to close the opening.
One at a time, unscrew the bolts and screws with copper surrounds
It'd also be advantageous to add a redundant ground at this point as well. Unscrew the small center screw on the metal bar at the top of the IP and connect a new wire underneath. The other end of that wire to a body ground on the car. I used the hole on the right side of the support behind the IP, the hole on the left is already a ground, and while you’ve got the IP out you may as well clean that too.

 

I've had the sensor & float replaced. But thanks for the instructions.