You may have better luck with the term "flare nut wrench" but these are just so you can get as much purchase as possible onto brake fittings, the bleeder itself can obviously be undone with a full on box ended wrench, but the safety bet would be a 6-point socket. Usually when bleeders get chewed up your option boils down to a pair of vice-grips.

The calipers can come out with everything in-situ. I believe the only thing I undid when I removed mine to rebuild was the inboard axle cover, so that I could access the hole in the rotor to undo the caliper bolts. If i were to do it again the only thing I would change would be the addition of an impact wrench to remove those bolts. Getting them out by hand with an extension required some creative propping of other wrenches against the exhaust pipes to keep the whole setup straight and really direct the torque to the bolt, if you know what I mean.
Going back in the handbrake parts can be fiddling and you wonder how you even got the thing out with the exhaust getting in your way, but its perfectly doable. Just take your time and scoot out from under the car every 15-min or so to get some blood back in your arms lol

 

OB
Fla Steve has the right solution. I had both replaced at a garage for $400 (labor). I didn't do it do it myself because I had no access to a lift. (Too old to lay on my back) Two bolts hold the caliper but one can not be removed. Rotated the caliper to the rear and it will come off. I would suggest that you lube everthing and let soak overnight. It not a hard job if you have a lift and proper tools .

 

getting the rear calipers off with everything on the car is pretty easy its getting the rotors off that sucks.

 

Alex do yourself a favor and drop the cage, it's much easier to work on the rearend when you are not working over your head. Last time I dropped mine it took me less than 1hr.

You can then survey everything check bearings etc, etc

 

Hi Warrjon

I think you and Greg have somehow managed to talk me into it, though its just a shame that I have got this other Car to fix but since that sounds like a poor excuse maybe it time to get back working on 'The Ice Princess' and drop that Cage!

 

I did this job a few years ago and was a complete novice mechanic.
I got the cage out on a long Saturday being very careful and slow. I could do it a lot quicker the next time!
In terms of getting access to the brakes and without a lift (which I don't have) I wouldn't even consider doing the work in situ.
With the cage out you can get everything done once and for all which is what I did, calipers, discs, output shaft seals, parking brake calipers, flex hoses etc etc and NEVER have to go there ever again!!

 

Hi Paddy

Looks like its 'Game On' then

BTW I'm still looking for that Relay with the Red Stripe, which you say you found in the Footwell by the ECU, I think it must be in a different place on my 1995 4.0L with AJ16 Engine

 

I think if I recall correctly the relay I replaced is located adjacent to the passenger side fusebox below the glove compartment.
If the injectors are not clicking, plugs are dry and you have no spark this relay is likely to be the cause of the no start

 

Cheers Paddy!

I'll have another look