How to Replace Power Steering Pump to Cooler Hose
Having to replace the low pressure hose on the power steering pump. Pump to cooler. It looks like the clamp on the cooler will be hard to get to. Should I go from underneath? Unbolt the cooler? Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
The cooler is in the return line from the rack, not the high pressure feed line. The best idea, as recommended by Grant and copied by me, is to undo the return line where it joins the cooler (just a worm drive clip), and then take it directly to the pump return inlet (again just a clip). If the line is not long enough, jon it using a barbed hose joiner of the correct diameter.
Then you can unbolt the cooler and remove it - which is easy as it has 7/16th headed bolts going into captive fastenings.
Then you can unbolt the cooler and remove it - which is easy as it has 7/16th headed bolts going into captive fastenings.
Oh, that's a good idea. But are you suggesting that I do away with the cooler? I was asking if I could unbolt it, and, attach the hose to it, it might be easier to get to. I will bypass it if you think it is unnecessary.
Less weight, more speed, just what you need.
Added BONUS, 2 less hose joints to leak, whoopee.
CHANGE the power steer fluid annually, and you will never have issues.
I use Synthetic ATF, but thats just because a I have a huge container of it for the Auto transmissions in my fleet.
Added BONUS, 2 less hose joints to leak, whoopee.
CHANGE the power steer fluid annually, and you will never have issues.
I use Synthetic ATF, but thats just because a I have a huge container of it for the Auto transmissions in my fleet.
Only across the Ditch. LUV IT,
It was there for when the car was driven flat out through Death Valley in High Summer.
Yes, there is some air flow, maybe a draft or 2, but it is tucked up inside that metal work.
The leaks are all part of Jaguars "Rust prevention Programme", so if yours is intact, then there is no rust needing attention, I need a new drink, that is silly, but there it is.
Removing them can be challenging, and mine went missing whenever the engine was out, but from under the car, one flat at time on one of the bolts from memory (and that is not what it was), is doable.
I would say about 8 beers all up.
It was there for when the car was driven flat out through Death Valley in High Summer.
Yes, there is some air flow, maybe a draft or 2, but it is tucked up inside that metal work.
The leaks are all part of Jaguars "Rust prevention Programme", so if yours is intact, then there is no rust needing attention, I need a new drink, that is silly, but there it is.
Removing them can be challenging, and mine went missing whenever the engine was out, but from under the car, one flat at time on one of the bolts from memory (and that is not what it was), is doable.
I would say about 8 beers all up.
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When i removed mine, I went in from the top with a longish extension. Airbox off, and pretty easy as the fixings to the cage are captive. Just three 7/16ths headed bolts.
Jaguar had a test progamme in (from memory) Arizona, involving paid test drivers who put about 500 miles a day on the cars, day in and day out. part of this programmed drive route was up and down a steep mountainside with lots of tight bends and in high ambient temps. they found that under extreme circumstances, particularly when the engine and surrounding engine bay was very hot, that the steering fluid could overheat. hence the cooler.
Never ever happened in real motoring and never will!
Jaguar had a test progamme in (from memory) Arizona, involving paid test drivers who put about 500 miles a day on the cars, day in and day out. part of this programmed drive route was up and down a steep mountainside with lots of tight bends and in high ambient temps. they found that under extreme circumstances, particularly when the engine and surrounding engine bay was very hot, that the steering fluid could overheat. hence the cooler.
Never ever happened in real motoring and never will!
The cooler is in the return line from the rack, not the high pressure feed line. The best idea, as recommended by Grant and copied by me, is to undo the return line where it joins the cooler (just a worm drive clip), and then take it directly to the pump return inlet (again just a clip). If the line is not long enough, jon it using a barbed hose joiner of the correct diameter.
Then you can unbolt the cooler and remove it - which is easy as it has 7/16th headed bolts going into captive fastenings.
Then you can unbolt the cooler and remove it - which is easy as it has 7/16th headed bolts going into captive fastenings.
Huh???? Who would've thunk it. Well, I will get rid of it, but, here is what happened. I got the hose off of the pump, not easy, then I just popped on another clamp.The Jaguar clamp had failed, it wouldn't tighten, I didn't think they could fail. It gets slightly tight, then loose again. Anyway, since bypassing the cooler is POSSIBLE, but Grant seems to think an 8 beer job, I would be passed out on the floor. My all time record was 14 beers...40 years ago. As I expect my job to fail, because I am bad with hoses and gaskets, I will keep watch on it. When it fails, I will bypass cooler. Looking forward to it.
Huh???? Who would've thunk it. Well, I will get rid of it, but, here is what happened. I got the hose off of the pump, not easy, then I just popped on another clamp.The Jaguar clamp had failed, it wouldn't tighten, I didn't think they could fail. It gets slightly tight, then loose again. Anyway, since bypassing the cooler is POSSIBLE, but Grant seems to think an 8 beer job, I would be passed out on the floor. My all time record was 14 beers...40 years ago. As I expect my job to fail, because I am bad with hoses and gaskets, I will keep watch on it. When it fails, I will bypass cooler. Looking forward to it.
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