So I just finished all kinds of work, rebuilt the transmission, and most everything in the rear suspension, I had to buy a new battery so I know this issue isn't battery related. I go to start it this morning - that final confirmation that i didn't screw anything up in the transmission lol - and nothing. Not even a relay click. The lights in the dash come on, you can hear the fuel pump, most of the lights go away like normal, but when you turn the key to position 3 to start it the brake and park brake lights both come on. What does that mean? I was just in there to bleed the rear calipers so I know its got plenty of fluid.

 

Transmission interlock ?

 

I've tried starting it in both park and neutral so I don't think so.

 

Starter ground/earth?

 

Can you tell me where the ground is? I don't recall having to unhook anything with the starter when I pulled the transmission but it's been many months since I started so I may have just forgotten

 

There is a wire from the selector to the starter, red/white from memory, and it is connected to the starter relay just in the engine bay but right at the back, practically under the firewall lip. It is very easy to leave this disconnected, or to disconnect it without knowing.

 

I will definitely investigate that, I plugged in everything I could find, but I certainly could have missed that.

 

Hi Sardonicus

If you've fitted a New Battery, you could very easily have disturbed the 'Fuseable Link' (A very common problem caused by moving or changing the Battery)



Push these Battery Wires together and She might start Cranking again!

 

I will have a look at that as well then when I get back over to the shop.

 

Check the inertia switch. Under the A pillar on the left door. Small black box. You can check it by putting your finger on the top, there's a small hole. The switch should be pressed down. If its up it cuts the fuel and power to the starter. Useful if you get in an accident, pain in the *** if you hit a big pothole.

 

I will have a look at that. Haven't hit any pot holes, but when bringing it down off the stands I did have a jack fail. Dropped that corner a good 12 inches or better.

 

That may be enough to do it. I wasn't really expecting that to be the fault, but its something to know about that can cause a sudden no-crank situation.

 

I may be wrong, but I think on my car the inertia switch only cuts the fuel, not the starter.

 

I am with Greg here.

That White/Red relay to starter wire has a joiner, about the area of the transmission dipstick top. It is a male/female connector, and easier to separate than spilling your beer.

Follow it down the rear area and make real sure its is connected inside that rubber cover fiasco. Doing trans and starter has 100% fiddled with that wire.

Mine are the same as Gregs, the inertia cuts the fuel pump only, but, other markets may have other things cut, dunno.

 

I thought it only cut the fuel, but I tested mine and it wouldn’t turn over with the switch pulled up. Reset the switch and it started instantly.

 

This is one of those "the-hip-bone's-connected-to-the-leg-bone" type of things.

The starter relay can't operate unless the feedback inhibit relay operates. The inhibit relay can't operate unless the main relay operates. The main relay can't operate if the inertia switch has been tripped.

Simultaneously, the fuel pump relay can't operate unless the main relay operates.

Not all cars/markets would have the feedback inhibit relay; certainly not those without oxygen sensors.

Cheers
DD

 

Ok so i've confirmed the inertia switch was not tripped. I found that white and red wire, it seemed to be secure down at the starter, comes up and plugs into a black wire with like half a roll of electrical tape on it and then goes over to the other side and through a grommet. I will see if i can get a better look after I finish picking up eggs for the day. Its kinda hard to see stuff around the starter under there.

 

That doesn't sound right at all.

Your starter relay is/probably should be wired like this:

Post C2 Brown wire, 12v "+" at all tmes
Post W1 White/black wire, ground with the trans in "P" or "N" and when the feedback relay is triggered
Post C4 White/blue wire. Might not even be there. If it is, it is not used
Post C1 White/red wire x 2. One heavy gauge that goes to the starter. The lighter gauge one goes to the ECU
Post W2 White/yellow from the key switch and white/blue that goes to a timer....which isn't important to discuss at the moment

Cheers
DD

 

Ok thank you for that. From the relay I follow the heavy gauge white and red to a connector. The wire that one's supposed to be connected to is connected to this black one and I have no idea where it goes. Wherever it goes this car has started since I've owned it so this is just weird.

 

I agree with Doug, NOT right at all.

I suspect a dead mans switch somewhere, that has been flicked with all the work undertaken.

Go to the starter relay, find that same White/Red heavy wire, reconnect as factory made it, see what happens.

Search out that other nonsense after the beast is running and you are warm and fuzzy again.