No crank weirdness
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From: France
If needed for a test, if you apply 12 volts to the starter relay at the terminal the wire from the selector goes to, the starter will start the car. Be careful that it is in Park, etc etc.
Last edited by Greg in France; Nov 13, 2021 at 06:43 AM.
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From: Maysville, GA
I should have some decent connectors laying around here somewhere from other projects to put that wire back proper. I am not particularly looking forward to seeing what other "custom" electrical work has been done lol. Fingers crossed fixing this gets it going again AND it goes in reverse. This transmission was much simpler than the one I did for my firebird but I'm no pro so this kind of thing always makes me nervous until I can test it.
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From: Maysville, GA
So no change putting that wire back where it belongs. The relay gives a nice audible click when you turn the key but no action from the starter.
Are the brake and park brake lights trying to tell me something? When you turn the key to position 2, all the usual lights come on and do their thing, and then you turn the key to position 3 and nothing happens except the brake and park brake lights come on. I know the res has plenty of fluid and the park brake is not on.
Are the brake and park brake lights trying to tell me something? When you turn the key to position 2, all the usual lights come on and do their thing, and then you turn the key to position 3 and nothing happens except the brake and park brake lights come on. I know the res has plenty of fluid and the park brake is not on.
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From: Massachusetts
The starter relay can be problematic. Mine would click and not turn the starter sometimes, sometimes it worked fine. Once I held the key on Start it would click, wait, and then turn the starter. I replaced it any it has been problem free ever since. I used a Chrysler relay, there is a section in Kirby Palm's book on how to test, repair, and replace the starter relay. It should be possible to get the one you have going again with a little time, but it isn't usually a permanent repair.
Here is the relevant section
Here is the relevant section
Moisture is not the starter relay’s only problem. It often turns out to be the culprit in a car that won’t start, or will fail to start sometimes and then work perfectly later. To test, take the relay out of the car and apply power between the W1 and W2 terminals; you can jumper from a car battery, or you can just poke a 9V battery down onto the terminals. You should get a click. Then connect an ohmmeter between C1 and C2, and check that the circuit closes when the relay is energised. On this author’s relay, the resistance measured was random: less than 1 ohm one time, 25 ohms the next time, infinite ohms (open circuit) the time after that. Click that relay a few times to make sure it makes good contact every time. Note that clicking it a couple dozen times seems to clear it up so it makes good contact each time, but you probably shouldn’t rely on it staying good at that point. If it doesn’t seem to be making good contact the first few times, it probably won’t make good contact the night you’re out on a date with the girl of your dreams.
Last edited by garethashenden; Nov 13, 2021 at 09:06 AM.
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Are the brake and park brake lights trying to tell me something? When you turn the key to position 2, all the usual lights come on and do their thing, and then you turn the key to position 3 and nothing happens except the brake and park brake lights come on. I know the res has plenty of fluid and the park brake is not on.
There's a bulb check unit for those warning lights which is powered-up with the key turned to 'start'; what you're seeing is normal operation I think.
Cheers
DD
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From: Maysville, GA
So upon testing the starter relay it seems like its working fine. apply 12 volts to w1 and 2 and it clicks just like its suppose to, check resistance between c1 and 2 and it is consistently between 1.8 and 2.6 ohms.
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From: Adelaide Stralia
When it "clicks" as you say, what is the volts reading IN that White/Red wire?
My hassle with them is they click, but the contacts inside are so burnt, NO volts goes to starter, hence NO starter operation.
I used a Universal Starter Relay, as down here that Chrysler option was so hard to locate.
A starter relay is a starter relay, brand, who cares.
My hassle with them is they click, but the contacts inside are so burnt, NO volts goes to starter, hence NO starter operation.
I used a Universal Starter Relay, as down here that Chrysler option was so hard to locate.
A starter relay is a starter relay, brand, who cares.
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 28,788
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From: Adelaide Stralia
Forgot, it happens.
Probe that White/Yellow wire. What is the volts at the START position. Should be battery volts or very very close.
MAYBE???? you have an Ignition Switch Electrical Section in dire need of a service.
See the attached.
Probe that White/Yellow wire. What is the volts at the START position. Should be battery volts or very very close.
MAYBE???? you have an Ignition Switch Electrical Section in dire need of a service.
See the attached.
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From: Maysville, GA
Found the problem. And it's stupid. The white and red wire is not plugged in like I thought it was. It was stuck on something which is why things seemed solid when I checked it last time. So now I get to figure out how I'm going to plug that in without taking out the down pipes lol because I really really don't want to do that
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From: Pennsylvania
Glad you found the problem! I was going to suggest the transmission rotary switch (neutral switch), as it was my problem. I too had tried numerous things including trying to start in park and neutral to no avail. What I found was that the metal trace in the switch for park and neutral had actually burnt out! The only thing I could figure was the previous previous owners kids tried jumping the car with a really big jump box and it did it. Not sure how it would've happened, but the previous owner made mention about them trying to start it that way and he said "then it stopped turning over". Oh well. All patched up and running now!
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