I'm starting to get a parts list together for my '76 XJ-S coupe. I'm planning on replacing all the rubber parts in the engine and suspension (along with lots of other bits). It's a pretty long list so I thought I'd check and see if anyone here has gone through the exercise and would be willing to share their work. I need to get an idea how bad this little project will hurt my bank account!

 

Done it and am still doing it...

 

If I were you I would tackle one thing at time.

Either the engine bay or the suspension.

The suspension is a big job but WILL need doing. Again do one end at a time and drop the subframes. The rear has no bushes it's all bearings. the only bushes are the metalastic mounts that hold the frame to the car.

While you have the front subframe out you can clean the bottom of the engine, drop the sump and sandwich plate and re-seal them.

 

Pete
That car needs lots of work! Long job, that's for sure. the rear suspension will probably need (depending upon how long it has stood):

• inner lower wishbone bearing repair kit
• outer ditto
• rear shock absorbers (maybe springs too)
• calipers rebuilt or a rebuild kit, new brake flexible
• handbrake calipers rebuilt
• rear discs
• rear cage mounts
• diff oil change
• grease up, possible UJs
• possible rear hub bearings

Front suspension:

• stub axles and bearings
• shockers (maybe springs too)
• ball joints top and bottom
• steering rack mounting bushes
• steering rack track rod ends
• calipers flexibles, discs
• front and rear cage mounts
• roll bar rubber bushes, roll bar drop links and bushes
• wishbone top and bottom bushes

All this will make the suspension like new, do not persuade yourself the car will be Ok without it all done, it will never ride and handle like it should after 40 years if you skimp any of these things. The plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap will need renewing and the pre-HE OPUS ignition box and dizzy internals may well be very fragile. You can get a modern replacement called RE-OPUS, that make this system as good as the HE ignition, which is very reliable.


Gearbox mount will be shot, propshaft (which has a rubber internal bit you cannot see and which fails in time) may well be too, so if you have a low frequency vibration when everything else is done, this may be the cause. Allow a parts budget (NOT including the ReOpus and the propshaft) of around $3000 USD max, could be less, for all these bits. Buy ONLY Metalastic brand rubber components, is my very strong suggestion, ditton Lemforder ball joints, aftermarket stuff just cannot take the load and you will find yourself doing the front wishbones again in no time if you use them.
Greg

 

Great info Greg - Thanks!

>>That car needs lots of work! Long job, that's for sure.

 

The build date is Nov. 1975 and it has only 48k miles. So it's a pretty early car that I'd like to preserve.

Right now I'm just gathering data, making lists, re-reading Kirby's book, etc..
I'll start getting dirty in the spring.

Thanks for the tips! All info is appreciated.

 

Well, you'll want to look into my thread regarding the iron lady... I've just rebuild the front axle (completely) with new bushings and co and new springs and shocks, and and and. It is a PITA and you need patience and loads or parts, but it can be done in your garage.

The engine should be removed for a lot of work. I'd replace every gasket and hose in there. Being a 75, I'd check every spot in there. These cars can rust anywhere and everywhere at the same time.

Replace all brake hoses and anything rubberrelated... British Leyland rubber is as durable as a condom is reusable...

It is a lot of work and I am still doing it... And I haven't even started the rear axle yet!

 

Pete
Just FYI, I seem to recall from somewhere that the stub axles on the early cars have a slightly smaller diameter than on later cars. I do not know if the earlier ones are available now. If not, I think, but am not sure, the later ones will fit the upright's tapered hole, but I have no idea at all if the diameter of the front hubs (that takes the outer race of the ball bearings) is also smaller than on later models. Someone on the XJ Saloon forum should know, as the early XJSs used the same running gear as the XJS Saloon series II. If indeed the hub diameter for the bearing races are smaller, and the original stub axle and bearing size are not available, you may need to pick up second hand hubs (plentiful) to go with the later stub axles.
See Daim's reply below. Turns out this is a mistaken memory
Great project though, I hope it goes well and that you have fun doing it.
Greg

 

I've got Series 2 Stubaxles here still and they are identical to the ones in my 89 XJ-S... My hubs and bearings just plop on and fit

 

Thanks Daim. Sorry to have bothered you, Pete.
Greg

 

Didn't bother me mate! I just went and checked out of curiousity... BUT it can well be, that they were replaced... I bought the axle used with no history... So Imwas being curious...

 

Lots of good info there - Thanks

 

Reading this is making me dread starting on my (wife's) 83 restoration. I don't know whether to make one big parts list with cost and give it to my wife or do it in sections. One big list and she might just say part it out. LOL... No such luck, she's already claimed that car as hers and wants it ASAP! She's already opened up a space in the shop for it and made arrangements for the wrecker service to move it in on Friday.

 

She wants it ASAP !?!? Good luck! ;-))

 

Yup, ASAP and Jaguar are non-sequitors!!!!


At times, stuff just takes more than one thrashing session. Not Jaguar specific, either.


I have a lumberjack project in motion. As I find frequently, the tools bust mid job. In this case, my little electric chain saw. it tossed a chain. Not an unusual thing. A bit fiddly to retrack and adjust, but, done many times over the years.


Not this time. So, I figured, it is done for.. Off to the hardware store.
Almost unity. $60.00. Not a budget breaker, deal.


Back to chopping. When shoulders got sore after a few sessions, I returned to the other one. In pieces on my bench..


Aha, Clean out all the oily saw dust. Run the adjustment screw on the bench and lube it's threads. Now the parts seat properly! Now the chain fits the dive sprocket. Now the screw takes up the slack.
Test. Whirr... Spares available. No chopping today. Tomorrow, back at a session at a time. Pace to match shoulders and disposal truck visits.


Carl

 

A bit more as I go. Time for after thrash fun with a spread sheet program. I used to delight in them in business and for fun. Lost a neat one on the Jaguar in my ancient but functional Dell AXim 5 pocket PC!


Headings:


`Task budget actual difference comments


You can do an addition formula for the first two ands a comparison
on the difference column


Caveat; When it scares the h... out of you, stop!!! Don't ask.


Carl