I have a 1990 XJS Convertible I needed to replace the door waist seals that rub against the outside of the window glass which deteriorated with age. You can buy the rubber fairly easily, but not the chrome strip, which is secured to the door shell with pop rivets. The chrome strip part number is BAC1298 (Right front) and BAC 1299 (Left Front) are no longer available.

The rubber will slide with some effort in the chrome strip track, but only with the short side of the seal toward the glass. Unfortunately the short side seal does not touch the glass. I spent about three hours trying to get the seal to slide in the track, but only got it in the track about four inches. I tried using silicone spray on the track and rubber. I finally drilled out the rivets on the drivers side door (left) and am trying to install the seal with the strip clamped to a work table.

Anyone replaced these seals before, and is there some secret?

Left side chrome strip with the short side toward the glass. Note the rubber does not touch the glass.

This is the end view of the chrome strip that shows the channel that the seal is supposed to slide into

This shows the seal slid about four inches into the channel with the long side ready to contact the door glass.

 

I have replaced the seal and chrome on my 94.
If I knew then what I know now I would NEVER have removed the chrome.
The rubber strip slid in and out easily for me after I figured it out.
Reinstalling the chrome requires Jaguar pop rivets with extra long grip pins.
The pins are longer because you need to slide a ferule over them so the tool clears the door skin.
I saved a set of the rivets and ferules if you want.

 

Do have a description or part number for those rivets n ferrules @equiprx ?

 

I'll need to dig through the bis to see.
When I get the info I'll get back to you.
Steve

 

I too need to do this mod but am way to scared to start yet.... please update when you can.
This is on my to do list!

Equip - Oh and to add did you add the new rubber with the chrome in place? What was the trick....?

 

I think I remember that one end of the chrome was open enough to slide the rubber out.
Too long ago to recall why I removed it to replace the rubber, or if I just swapped it around for better contact.
I still have the pop rivets and extension ferules sealed in original package.

 

I tried uploading the pic of the package but didn't have any luck.
The rivet part number is JZA 100003.
It contains 5 rivets.
Can't find the original ferules so I fabed up two.
I want $50 for the complete package.

 

I struggled trying to slide the seals into the trim rail. I gave up. Next I tried inserting the top edge of the seal retainer in the strip and then used a small common screw driver to push the bottom of the seal retainer into the chrome. That worked, but was time consuming .I reinstalled the chrome strip on the car, but did not use rivets. I used #8 3/8" pan head sheet metal screws at both ends and used #6 3/8 pan head sheet metal screws for the rest. With the chrome strip secure, I am finding that the long side of the rubber seal touches the glass, but curls away from the glass. The passenger side door I haven't replaced yet and the short side of the seal does not touch the glass.

Anyone have any thoughts about how best to get the seal to better contact the glass?


End view of Rubber showing long and short side of seal

Passenger door showing short edge of seal at the top, which does not touch glass

#8 3/8 sheet metal screw securing seal retainer to door shell on left door

#6 3/8 pan head sheet metal screw securing trim to door shell

Seal and retainer reinstalled showing rubber curling away from glass

View from opposite end

 

Did you get new rubber seals?
Can't imagine why the seals would curl away unless they are not fully engaged with the track.

 

Mike! Great to know about the screws. Thank you! I have my waist seals in a box and it was on the list as a todo this weekend. Thanks for the information. I also have a 1990 convertible. If you have any other top secret take aways, I'd be grateful to hear of em.

I had always read that they basically slide right in and out with a little soap or some kinda lube. I don't want to get into a position where to replace the seals - it leads to replacing the chrome. What I was hoping would be a 1, 2, 3 sounds a little more involved now.

Was removing the door are an absolute? Should I go in knowing that that has to be a part of it?

Living in NYC. Somehow my passenger side mirror got damaged and now it kinda just flops around on it's stand post. Everything looks ok but its not firmly in position. Hoping that is just a spring or something. Ohhhhhh the joys!
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There is no reason I know why you would have to remove the door.
If you can get to the 'ope' end of the track, you shouldn't even have to remove the window or the door card.

When a mirror goes wonky, it probably means replacing it.
Mine got adjusted once and I was never able to fix it.
Is it sloppy on the door or at the neck?
When it gets leaned on it can distort the door skin and backing plate welded to the inside of the door.
I still have some spares left over from my donor if anyone is interested.

 

I will go back and edit... Thanks.
I had no intention on removing any doors, lol
My phone "auto corrected" door card in the post...
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Jay - let us know when you do this.........................................
Still watching for a positive outcome.....

I like the 123 option but you know, life with an XJS is never that easy!

 

The rubber seals were new. The chrome retainers were the original. Replacement retainers are no longer available. I did not take the door off. I have not tackled the passenger side yet.

 

So, I replaced my seals today.
​​​​​​Bought 3 in case something went sideways...

ONE BIG QUESTION - Is the inner seal the same part as the outer seal? I was tempted but didn't want to remove an inner seal until I was sure.

It was pretty straightforward. To remove the old I took some very soapy soap and water and poured just a little bit in the raised lip of the seal with window all the way down and it ran nicely along the length of the seal. I then took my fingers and bent/pushed the rubber of the seal down so the soapy water wound get into the Grove of the chrome and rubber. This seemed to work.

I removed the triangle finisher at the corner of the front of the door/window frame which allowed me to get a screwdriver on the forward most end of the seal. I used the steel framing of the door UNDER the black triangle finisher to begine to pry (lightly) the old seal in the chrome channel towards the rear. This worked.

The seal was free in most places and before I really got to expecting that it would just slide out I found these stuck spots and wiggled them around to free up the binding and crud. They slid out.

I carefully removed the squarish finisher on the end of the door towards the rear of the car. It's for tiny screws. A silver plate with a rubber gasket under it. Set it to the side. Allows freer movement of the seal in and out.

Then, I used silicone grease very carefully (I don't wanna deal with grease streaks for the next 2months) on the edge that goes into the chrome guide, little bits in the tips of the fingers, AND a little on the seal guide/catch itself - both sides.

Then I started sliding it into the channel in the chrome. Sloooowly, trying not to get greedy. Was super smooth until about 2/3rds of the way. Then it started to fight. From there it was an inch at a time.

I might suggest taking a small screw driver and VERY CAREFULLY opening up the channel in the chrome an almost IMPERCEIVABLE bit. Carefully... I'm guessing the driver's side was so much harder after thirty years of using the window and chrome as an arm rest and as a handle to open and close the door might have crushed down the chrome bit and channel just a tiny tiny bit. Opening up a little with a driver or flat blade something MIGHT make sense. CAREFULLY...
Don't know what else to say. Wasn't so bad at all. The passengers side was cake. Nearly 3/4s or 5/6ths of the way very little resistance.

I would like to use my 3rd section for the inside of the door seal IF it is the same part. I hope someone can clear this bit up.

 

jay - How does it look? Its was not really done without some pictures..
Does the seal sit nicely?

Where did you get the rubber seal? I have the CDrom but can not find the parts list for convertible?

thanks

 

It looks great! I have to say. And more, feels great. What constantly reminded me that they needed replacing was the crusty feel of them when I hung my arm out the door while driving. They are soft and pliable now. And, importantly, no more chips missing.

The seals I got off of the RockAuto site. See below. The result of an internet search. Compared to other waste seals for other cars I couldn't believe the price! Left about 4-5 inches of seal to spare. Silicone grease helped on the sliiide in.

Still want to know if the inners and outers are the same part... anyone?

I have a couple of photos but they don't say much. One is of the chrome channel with no rubber in it, in the corner, with the black plastic triangular finishing piece off. It's a good place to poke a screwdriver and pry a little to push the deepest end of the rubber toward the rear to get everything moving. Other than that I don't have any pictures that help much.

Sealing!? The driverside not so well. The passengers side completely sealed when the top and window are up and the door is closed. The driver's side further confirms (and annoys) because I CANNOT get my driver's door window to sit right no matter what I do. IMO the door itself isn't sitting right. Larger than "normal" gap along the bottom where the door frame meets the body frame... When I go thru a car wash a TON of water makes it past the upper window/roof seal... I'm hesitant to try and adjust it again, because I have two of the bolts 4 that secure the window to the internal window rail mechanisms INSIDE the door shell spinning freely in there VERY hard to access captive nuts on the back side, I'm afraid to go messing around with them to adjust again. I have to repair those captives and then adjust the entire door (maybe) and window - BOTH. Not a pleasant job.

If anyone knows if the outer and inner seals are identical, I would be greatly appreciative for the info...

 

JayJagJay;

The inners and outers appear to be the same rubber, but the short side is toward the glass on the inside. I took a photo of the end of the seal on my door card and held one of the new outer seals so that you can compare the end view of both.


door glass seal as installed in the driver (left hand) door card.

cross section end view of seal on door card and a new outer seal. On my door cards, short side is against door glass where *** short side does not touch glass on outer seal installed. About 1/2" at the end is not in the track

 

Mike!
Please know that I really really appreciate the info and, you for doing the work to provide it! I need to get better at documenting the things I'm doing so I can contribute more, as you have. Many many thanks!

 

Guys;

Since neither installation (short side to glass or long side to glass) seems right, Can I get someone to measure the width of the rubber on your car if the seal touches the glass. Here are photos of what I am looking to find out.

Measuring width of short side of seal to glass

Measuring the width of the seal with long side toward glass