XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Rear axel fluid replacement

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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 05:40 PM
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Default Rear axel fluid replacement

When changing my rear axel fluid, I noticed the fill plug looked like the drain plug, and vice versa. The fill plug on my axel looks like what I call a plumbers fitting...a beveled threaded plug that seals without need for washers or teflon tape. a 3/8ths square extension fits into it. The drain plug...on my axel...has a 1/2" square bolt with flange. This is leaking.
I have scoured the service manual but haven't found the torque specs. I'm loath to 'reef' on the drain plug for obvious reasons.
In my limited experience, the 'plumbers' fitting is usually the drain plug, and the nut and flange are the fill plug. Could someone please enlighten me?!
Much appreciated!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2025 | 06:00 PM
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No matter the style ....recessed or protruding....the drain plug is on the very bottom of the diff and the fill plug is on the diff cover, about 1/3 way up from the bottom. I've never seen a torque spec to be honest. One medium grunt is my standard on these

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Jul 10, 2025 | 08:28 AM
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I think you have them the right way round, ie. the female one is the fill plug, and the male one the drain (which may also be magnetized).
Diagram here https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
 
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Old Aug 22, 2025 | 07:09 PM
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I have a slow leak from the drain plug. Should a use teflon (plumbers) tape, or a copper washer?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2025 | 03:51 AM
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flyingphil,

IMLE a leak from the diff drain plug tends to be caused by the threads. I'm not sure a copper washer is going to cure that; after all they were not designed to have a washer originally.

Maybe look at getting some sealant on the threads, whether PTFE or else a liquid thread sealant? And, as always, make sure you can remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug!

Good luck

Paul
 
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Old Aug 23, 2025 | 04:59 AM
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They're taper threads and as such there is no torque spec, you're relying on the threads to seal so you tighten until they do - but - if you go all gorilla taper threads can crack the casting, there are limits to everything. I don't think there is a seat that would work for a copper washer, a bit of teflon tape won't hurt providing you wrap it the correct way - i.e. the opposite way to tightening but use enough to take out irregularities. There are also Loctite products that will work that will seal but not dry out, Hylosil blue is another but hit the threads with brake clean first - personally I think the PTFE tape is fine.

Just out of interest what did you use to get oil back into the diff - the filler is an accessibility nightmare, always interested to see if there's a better method out there - I ended up using a large oil syringe but it wasn't a mess free or environmentaly friendly process.

 
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Old Aug 23, 2025 | 09:06 AM
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Removing the tie plate greatly improves access to the filler plug.

Cheers
Dd
 
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Old Sep 16, 2025 | 10:14 PM
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The teflon tape on the drain plug has solved the problem!
 
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Old Sep 16, 2025 | 10:20 PM
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We have Princess Auto auto here. They sell a bottle with bottom feed hand pump, tube and hooked metal end for about $16 CND...about £9. After years of getting most of my expensive fluids on the floor or in my eyes, this is the bees knees.
 
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