1988 XJ-S, trying to remove the rear hub and half shaft to replace the wheel bearings and outer u-joint. This one is really seized; and is of the era when Jaguar was slopping the splines with loctite. Over the past few years I have soaked it in PBlaster, heated it, and tried several different pullers. Currently using a OTC/New Britain 7394 hub puller with the OTC adapter plate, which is 1/2” thick. The adapter plate (after hogging out the center hole) is secured to the hub flange by all 5 wheel studs, and the 3 legs of the puller are secured to the plate with 5/8” bolts. This puller has a 1” draw screw and according to OTC can develop 20 tons of pull, and arguably heavier duty than the Churchill tool.

No dice, not moving. This puller includes a striking wrench, beat on that for an hour with a 2 pound hammer, and only succeeded in bowing the adapter plate. Before I damage anything-

I have read that if you leave tension overnight, the Loctite will creep and eventually shear- has anyone actually experienced that?

I have read that soaking the splines with acetone will soften the Loctite, problem being that the hub would have to be upright; probably more suitable to try in a press (which is the next step). Anyone with actual experience?

Heating up the hub to any significant temperature on the car would require acetylene and a rosebud torch, neither of which I have. I have heard of induction heaters, anyone with actual experience?

 

The best way is to take the assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press with a hammering action. Nothing else will shift it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ebuild-225834/

 

I did this three years ago and you must have seen my post. I looked back and you need a couple more steps. Find some Kroil penetrant, they sell around here at Advance Auto. I sprayed mine 3 days in a row before hand. Make sure all the bolts are tight on puller and rotate the axle until the plate is flat on the bottom. Jack up the hub and put wood blocks under the flat, I had 2 6x6 20" then release the jack tension. It will help keep it from rotating, you may also need to wedge a pry bar and block the handle for added leverage. Use a large breaker bar and maybe a pipe to apply steady pressure. Lean on it. If it doesn't move, follow Greg's method.
Rear hub axle removal - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Yours is the post that I recall, thanks for sharing again. I am going to try it again with a good long breaker bar; I’m thinking steady pressure rather than beating on the hammer wrench. I also will be looking for someone with a 30 ton/hammer press if that doesn’t work.

 

Over the years I've had go luck with leave-under-pressure method. Non-Jaguar cars. A couple times I've returned in the A.M. and found the hub sitting on the floor which for some reason I always found a bit comical.

At various other times other methods mentioned above have worked, too.

Keep at it. It'll give eventually.

Probably

I have been truly defeated by rear hubs on a Corvette. I had to take 'em to a shop with a big press, 20 ton I think it was ....and even then the shop reported having to use a lot of heat. Gah !

Cheers
DD

 

I had one of those years ago, a ‘78 C3 that I fought- still remember that ugly POS.

 

You are absolutely right....Jaguar used a full teaspoon of Permanent grade loctite on the splines, coated the full length, and primer as well 😣
We have pinned the gauge on our 50 ton press trying to remove those 😔
Make sure you install a column nut on the axle splines before pushing too hard, the axle itself will mushroom out otherwise

Heat and a press is the only answer.....

 

It is apart and no damage. Here’s the tale-
All the auto parts in the area want $$$$ as soon as they hear Jaguar, so I tried a rent-a-bay; they had a 20 ton press and ox/acetylene torches- $50/hour. Took the half shaft/hub off the car and made an appointment….
Got there, no acetylene, tank empty “but we have MAP gas”. Spent 2 hours heating and pressing until I used up the gas and was bending the press. Did not budge it. Gave up, took it to a truck repair place, hoping they had a bigger press.
50 ton! And it nearly maxed out….absolutely crushed a socket that I was using to protect the stub axle threads.
Moral to the story, if it doesn’t come apart easily, take it to a place adequately equipped and ante up. I easily have 5-6 hours in just puller/press time, plus buying the OTC puller and plate. But it’s apart!

 

Congrats, that's crazy tight. I'm glad I didn't encounter that.

 

Just goes to show how barmy some people were at Jaguar ! There were some customer complaints of clicking from the rear, and it was identified as the half-shaft spines in the hub carrier. I actually heard this only once in my 1980 XJ6 in the mid-90s when driving over a fairly rough track. It's quite incredible Loctite was used to cure a non-fault, when this suspension and drive system had been in use since the Mark 10 came on sale in 1961 !!

 

My question is Does the "89" XJS have the Lock Tite on the hub splines as well??? If so here's hoping I never have an issue with them. LOL!

Jack

 

I believe that it does, believe it started around’84-5 and used until the end of production. On mine, right was seized, left came apart easily.

 

Yes, it does that's why I posted the link. You won't know how hard it is until you try. I cleaned all the shaft splines, also in the hub until it slipped together. I used medium Loctite sparingly on about 1" of the shaft when I reassembled it.

 

Yikes Thanks.

Jack

 

Turns out that I spoke too soon; the outer bearing has spun in the carrier, so looking for a replacement carrier either bare casting or with the hub. Definitely do not want another seized assembly….

 

Loads available on UK ebay, if you cannot find one your side. You might find the sticky on rebuilding the ouiter fulcrum useful when your rebuild intoa new carrier.

 

Be very careful with the rear carriers - they are notorious for cracking above the lower pivot and you won't see this in any pictures. Why they crack I couldn't say but it isn't something that is easily repair if it can be repaired at all - alloys from the XJS era are notoriously bad when it comes to TIG because they aren't the best quality. Both of mine had this - the pic isn't of mine as for some reason I cannot find them - needless to say they were replaced.

 

I have one (actually both) from an '88 XJS H&E car I parted 4 years ago.
Its just laying in my garage.
PM me if you want it.
I am in central VA south of DC.