Hey guys,

a few months(!!) ago I removed the timing chain cover from my V12 in order to give the chain set up a thorough check... Now, I didn't remove the heads. I am worried that I won't be able to wedge the cover back in without removing the heads (the last thing I want to do is to removed the heads).

Has anyone done this?

Also, what way around are the front gaskets fitted? One side seems rubberized. The other like carton.

Cheers guys

Damien

 

Daim
I understand, not done it myself, that the key is to loosen off the sandwich plate so that the timing cover can be lowered a touch to ensure it does not foul the gaskets. A piece of shim steel is an added precaution, and it can be withdrawn after the cover is loosely in place.


Greg

 

Greg is correct.

The dowels for the timing may have to removed to allow this.

I have only done 1 this way.

The sandwich plate was lowered about 10mm, the top section of the timing cover fed in first, and the bottom held out on a slight angle, then slowly and gingerly work the lower portion in.

Copious amounts of RTV of the head gasket sections, and then the lower face of the cover and I also squirted some into the sandwich plate section. It did not leak.

The main issue with the angle method is the end of the chain tentioner pivot, that must slide into its cover hole as the cover goes on "square", so on an angle it is a fiddle, and the tentioner must be slack or you have no hope.

I did not use timing cover to block gaskets, just a new o/ring and a bead of RTV.

NO seal fitted also, as it will get damaged.

 

Just a stupid question: the head gaskets don't have much of a function on that area at the front. Would it matter if I removed those sections? I know it is a bodge but that would solve a few issues, right?

 

Not a problem.

Slide the cover in, RTV in the space, job done.

 

Cheers. I don't like cutting corners but after seeing that the head gaskets are just overly long, should be easier to do it like that...

 

Daim,

If you do it that way 2 chaoises.

1) RTV as mentioned, BUT DO NOT overtighten the nuts at the front of each head, you WILL crack the timing cover.

2) Coat the head gaskets ends you have cut off wit RTV, slide them into the gap, fit the studs, and nuts and tighten as normal.

I would do #2. A tad messier, but safer in MY opinion.

 

Question is will they slide in?

 

Yep.

Messy as hell, but they will go in.

 

I'l see this weekend. My plan wasn't to remove or undo the sandwich plate... If I remove that section of head gasket from the top end, I should have enough room to wiggle the cover in place...

 

I reckon that sandwich plate gasket is going to get caught up, and that sucker is a bigger leak concern than the top section.

 

Due to the missing section of headgasket, it should be 'hasslefree' as it should have around 0.5-0.9mm of space to move around in... At least in theory...

 

Got it installed again. Went a slightly different route...

I'll be replacing the sandwichplate gasket again... So I cut the end off. That left me with loads of space to wiggle the timing cover around. No worry getting in on the guides... Just slid straight on. I was worried about not being able to get the top studs in properly, but that was a straight forward easy thing... Simply turned the nuts untill they wouldn't turn anymore and turned the studs into the cover.

Finally sealed the areas between headgasket and cover with high temperature RTV. Finito!

 

Mmmm...Sandwich plate. What sides you got?

Not having disassembled the front of the engine, am I understanding that the heads sit on top of the timing cover and the issue is slidining it back in place is impossible as it's basically clamped top and bottom?

What is the sandwich plate?

 

The sandwich plate sits between the block and the oil pan. It is only screwed on. The timing chain cover is not really clamped between both but rather firmly in there. But it can be reinstalled... See here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post1730838

 

I replaced my tensioner about 5yrs ago (highly recommended when cover is off). Anyway, dropping the (SP)sandwich plate (unscrewing bolts) as far as possible without removing the bolts gave me enough room underneath to get the cover off & on. Also, I made a "tool" using a 9/16 ,I think that's the size of the SP bolts. Bought a cheap ratchet box wrench & welded a 12" piece of steel to it, ie: making it easier to loosen/ tighten the SP bolts between the crossmember & engine. Another tip is using thread or fishing line to hold the head gasket in place when installing the timing cover. I used Kirby's suggestion of 519 gasket sealer.Use Gortex gaskets, IF available!! No oil leaks in over 5yrs