I'm about at the end of my search in trying to find someone who will remove the windshield from my '87 V12 Coupe and put in a new seal and replace the windshield. I have the parts, I just can't find anyone willing to do the work.

So...is this doable at home? Given some of the horror stories in Palm's book about what happens when a "professional" does it, I'm wondering if I won't be better off doing it myself anyway?

Comments?

Thanks!

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Pre facelift XJ-S coupe windshield isn’t so hard. It’s largely like a camper window. You use a string to get the gasket over the flange. I haven’t done an XJS but I did my MG 1100 and it was simple. I’d say go for it!

My facelift XJS convertible uses a modern bonded window. I had a pro do it because glass+install in my driveway was only $220. Couldn’t find glass alone that cheap. He saw my XJ12 and wished he’d seen it sooner. Apparently he had to do one a body shop had removed and had no idea how it went back together. That thing is nothing like an XJS.

 

I'm interested in this too. I've an 89 convertible that needs the front screen in and out so any input will as always be gratefully received

 

Very doable at home provided the seal is correct size. There have been some reports of incorrect size aftermarket parts being sold.
The tool for locking strip insertion is available and probably worth having in order to lessen chance of seal damage.

 

Lots of glass guys are scared off by "Jaguar". They're probably thinking of the Series III sedans where everything about the windshield is complicated and troublesome.

I had a new windshield seal put in my 88 XJS coupe years ago. The glass guy had never worked on a Jag before and was done in an hour. He said it was "....a piece of cake, just like an old VW Beetle"

I should add, though, that I had already removed the stainless trim. Extra time needed there, and it is delicate stuff....needs to be handled with care.

If you only been searching by phone and coming up empty try taking the car to the glass shop and have them actually look at it. You might get an answer you like. Volunteer to remove the trim yourself as it might make the job less scary for them !

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for all the responses.

Actually, I've been driving it around so they could look at it. I'd even taken the trim off myself, so now some of them wonder it the trim is essential to a good seal :-), good grief!

I did try telling anyone I could get to listen that it was similar to a VW Beetle, and the usual response was "this car is older than any of the guys working in my shop..." and so on and so forth.

I have the parts (obtained from XJK's Unlimited), but I've been unable to determine if the "factory parts" are even available. If they are not than after-market is my only option, and it's either a choice between making after-market parts work or what...giving up on the car??? Anyway...sorry about that last bit, just a little venting.

So...can anyone share the procedure for pulling the windshield and replacing it? I don't have a proper repair manual and any help in this regard would be most appreciated.

I just love the car too much to give up on it because of an issue like this.

Thanks!

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Convertibles have a bonded screen which is different to the pre-facelift coupe.

I have fitted the rear screen myself and while it's a PITA is doable. When you do it I would strongly recommend using polyurethane sealant not mastic.

My front screen was fitted by a specialist with mastic and is now leaking again, the rear screen I fitted with PU sealant ( this is the stuff used to fit bonded screens) and is still leak free after 7 years. The only down side to PU is it sticks and if you do need to remove the screen the rubber MUST be cut or you will break the glass.

 

I would test fit the rubber and screen, in my experience most of the rubbers are too long and will need trimming. The ends can be glued back together with superglue.

As a lubricant to make install easier use an Alcohol based hand sanitiser, it is slippery and evaporates quickly.

You will need some plastic trim tools something like these

4pcs Car Radio Door Body Clip Panel Dash Audio Plastic Trim Removal Tool Kits | eBay

 

When you say the convertibles have a bonded screen does that include pre facelift? Thanks

 

Yes it includes pre-facelift, but only Jaguar factory convertibles, where someone has converted a coupe it will have the rubber seal of the coupe.

 

Well..."here goes nothing" as we say :-)

To remove the glass, do I just cut the existing seal off until I can lift the glass out?

Thanks,
John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Yes, you must, or like me you will crack a perfectly good screen!
Greg

 

I intend to launch into in here in the next few days. I'll take pics and keep everyone posted (so you can avoid the mistakes I'm likely about to make).

Palm says that people who have done this say it's similar to replacing the windshield on a vintage VW Beetle. I've come across a video showing that process, so that will be my guide of sorts.


Thanks!

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Well...I got motivated and decided to get to work on it. Cutting the old seal and taking the windshield out is a non-event, took about 30 minutes. Granted, I had taken the trim off a few weeks ago, but that didn't take long either.

Next step was to "dry fit" the new seal to see if it would fit. As soon as I took it out of the box I had an uneasy feeling. The original seal was clearly formed to fit around the rectangular windshield (see photos, it's sitting towards the front of the car). The "new" seal is...well...round. My first thought is that somehow I got the wrong part, but the part number (BDC7178) is what any reference I can find says is the correct part.

So I thought I'd see how it fit. From looking at the photos it's easy to see that it's way too long.

The thought occurred to me that possibly this is the right part, and that one is supposed to cut it at the appropriate spot and, of course, seal the cut? Every photo I can find on the internet that matches this part # shows an unformed (round) seal.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Hi John,

This is very common I ened up ordering 3 different screen seals and all of them were too long. What I did was fit the seal to the car and cut it to the correct length, then glue it back together with superglue.

I have said this a million times when you install it use Polyurethane window sealant not mastic. If you use mastic you will be re-sealing it again in a few years. I used PU sealant on my rear window and it has been leak free for 7 years, the front was put in with mastic and is leaking, It's on my list of things todo to pull the front again and re-0install with PU.

 

Thanks for that Warren!

So, use PE on the window to seal joint. What would you recommend to use on the seal to metal joint, same stuff?

Secondly, should I put the PE on the window to seal joint before I put it back in the car, or after? I've heard that some people put it all back together, then lift up the outside of the seal and squeeze sealant in the joint, and I've heard others seal the glass to rubber seal joint before reinstalling in the car.

Thanks again,

John
1987 XJ-S V12

 

Firstly many thanks to j-c-r and others who have contributed to this thread so far. I have made a note of warrjons advice on the use of polyurethane sealant and will be having a go at this job myself sometime in the not too distant future. As I have an 89 convertible, and from what I can gather the screen is bonded, can you explain to me what will be different and what I need to do. Sorry if I sound a bit slow but I'm not sure on the difference between coupe and convertible. Many thanks in advance.

 

If it's bonded I believe you will need to cut it out with a cheese-wire type tool, like you do a modern windscreen. Very hard to salvage the glass in tact.

Can anyone point to some specific polyurethane sealant that would be suitable?

 

Brinny
A bonded screen is where the glass is glued directly to the metal windscreen frame, and it is in fact a stressed member, contributing to the torsional strength of the car significantly. Most modern cars have this system If your convertible has a bonded screen (the coupes of this age did not) it was for that reason.
The older coupes 9and all older cars in general) have a rubber channel fixing system withb two channels, one each side, of a long rubber strip the same shape and length as the metal screen surround: one channel goes over the metal lip of the screen frame, the opposite one goes over the glass. So you effectively have a metal/rubber/glass cross section.
If you have a leaking bonded screen (very common) it is best, I believe, to go to autoglass etc, and get them to refit it.
Greg

 

Gregs right re-fitting a bonded screen is not a DIY job and is best left for a professional. To get the screen out you need a special wire knife to cut the PU bond to the metal.