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Trying to resolve fuel odour in trunk/boot and an occasional whoosh when fuel filler is opened.
i assumed I needed a new Rochester valve so I ordered one.
upon reviewing parts diagrams, it doesn't look like Canadian cars had one of these, the evap system looks much simpler.
i opened up my inner fender to take a peak and found this(note I had already disconnected line to tank).
It appears that I have had the evap recall already, right? These parts don’t show on diagram and the white zip tie doesn't look original.
new rochester valve wont arrive until after the holidays. Other than simply swapping it out, is there anything else I should check? With the car off, i was very easily able to blow into the valve(into the “tank” line), I was able to suck air as well but it took considerably more effort.
I ordered an aftermarket equivalent from Rockauto. It looks identical in the picture, we will see when it arrives.
WVE 2M1005
if I wanted to do away with it, would I just cap the vacuum line at source(i think its off the throttle body). Now that i look at this set up, seems overly complicated.
To really simplify it, just disconnect the very thin hardline tube where it exits the chassis just in front of the LHS rear wheel, and let it vent to air. This is how all the UK cars came from the factory.
To really simplify it, just disconnect the very thin hardline tube where it exits the chassis just in front of the LHS rear wheel, and let it vent to air. This is how all the UK cars came from the factory.
really? So the UK cars just have the vent line ending up in the rear? If this is how the factory made them, I will just do away with all of it. Would this be illustrated in the parts diagrams? Im thinking I will just leave the thin hardline where it is in the LH front fender,
Yes, really. This is a photo of the thin tube that runs behind the tank and then exits the chassis in front of the LHS wheel. It comes out of the evaporative cannister tubes up in the RHS buttress, via a Rochester valve on UK models (that will most likely not be there on your model as it had on in the front instead).
The tube is tiny and a free to air outlet will be fine.
The original Rochester valve can usually be fixed with a simple cleaning. The valve just snaps apart and inside you will find a diaphram and spring. Soak and clean the plastic part (I forget which half) until you can blow through the tiny holes. Similar looking valves are different inside, but if you need a new diaphram it will be the same in other similar looking valves.
Nick
You will find the end of the thin metal tube connected to the rubber tube that goes under the floor to that lashup at the front. Just remove the rubber tube from the end of the thin pipe. Then run the car for a few miles to ensure all good, then the entire lot downstream of the metal tube can be removed.
there is a rubber coupler that connects to a single steel line that goes all the way to the front wheel well. Then there is another rubber coupler that connects to a shorter steel line that terminates where the charcoal canister is located.
i decided not to remove all the line and just have the vent terminate where it is. There are clips riveted to the floor all along the steel line, if i remove it I will have to deal with a bunch of holes.
same result as the factory UK set up just at the front of the car vs the rear.
Rochester valve help.
