Apologies for this not being about a Jaguar. But I wanted to run this by people of this wonderful community, to ask for an advice on potential purchase of another British classic car.

At this point, it is nowhere close to be certain. But I might have a good chance of getting 1959 MG-A convertible. The car appears to be in a decently good shape cosmetically for a 60 year car. There are a few dings here and there, but overall it seems like the car has been taken care of. I did not see any rust. I know there will be maintenance issues (and likely repairs) to deal with, but this is to be expected with with any 60-year old cars. (After dealing with V12, there appears to be so much room under the hood with a 4 banger!)

It is red, it is convertible, it is British. Of course, everything will depend on the price (which is TBD). But overall, what do you think about MG-A? Anything specific to be aware of with these cars/this brand? What would be a fair price for a specimen in this condition?

 

This might be helpful:

https://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/buying/buying.htm

 

In my area Vancouver BC Canada iv seen these go for $1000, or 700ish at your USD discount. Look north for good deals.

 

Can't offer you much good advice, but I know a guy nearby who has one, and I've gone touring with him--his car sounds amazing in tunnels. Not brutal or anything, but a good, strong, engine-y sound. It made me very tempted indeed. Go for it. They're very good-looking cars.

 

GO for it! The MGA is an absolute classic, loads of support and parts in the UK, mechanical parts are cheap, engines easy and reliable. As long as the bodywork is solid, which you said it was, if not they can be a real problem to fix, and panels are scarce, and very exensive.

 

I had one once. Loved it.

Moss Motors will quickly become your friend.

Plan on changing the entire fuel line to deal with ethanol. From my experience with MGs, Triumphs and TVRs, the biggest decision is on upgrading the electrics. You can keep it pure Lucas, or upgrade components to modern standards. Even keeping it stock, there will be issues to deal with.

Just to mention a few...

Im a fan of upgrading the generator/alternator to a GM 10si, and wire it to be self exciting. Use 10ga wire for the B+ and ground cables. You will lose the charge light in doing so.

After the alternator, upgrade the headlamps so you can see where you are going at anything over walking speed. But the modern lamps use more current than the standards. This will necessitate putting relays in at least the high beam circuits.

Then start replacing the lamp sockets, if they have not been. They are way past their age at this point

Fast 700 ignition triggers are a great replacement for the Lucas points. Mine is still working great after 25 years.

The hardest parts to replace are the electrical switches. The big issue here is that the Brits don't use relays on anything. For example, blower motors draw about 6 amps. Way too much current to put through an old Lucas rocker. Same for the headlamps and wipers.

And the old Lucas bullet connectors have no place under the bonnet. I recommend upgrading them all to modern heat shrink waterproof Ancor connectors. If you do nothing else, find the spade connectors supplying power to everything under the hood and replace them. The plastic shielding that covers the powered wire spade terminals are way beyond their design age at this point. And due to continued hearing and cooling, the spades will have all loosened up. Thats just asking for a fire.

On my latest TVR, I had, years ago, traced the ignition and battery power wires and replaced them with modern wire. They tend to heat up, and at this age, the insulation will started cracking.

Just recently, after finding too many cracked wires under the bonnet, I decided to just upgrade the entire underhood electrical system. Im not worried about being a purist. I want reliability, and to minimize the possibility of fire. So I decided that a singular loom was not for me. i mounted B+ and ignition bussbars on the firewall, and made separate looms for alternator, wipers, starter solenoid, radiator fans, lights, horns, and sensors. All the circuits were powered by waterproof relays and 10ga. The lights, blower, horns, electric fans and starter solenoid each were fitted waterproof relays. I also protected each circuit with auto-reset Bussman breakers. All the powered wired were covered with fiberglass sheathing in case they chafed on metal.

Over my time with the older British cars, I have found the electrics to be the biggest contributor to breakdowns. And I like driving my toys.

 

I prefer the earlier cars, ie 1954 but that is a great looking MG.

 

I had a 52 TD that i did a ground up frame off restoration of back in the middle 70's. My information is dated and my memory back that far is foggy. However, I think the following information may apply. First off the MG A although with relatively modern sheet metal has the same or similar frame as the earlier TD/TF and several body parts such the floor panels and the like may well be wood. In an earlier post one of the forum members mentioned Moss Motors. They will become your go to place for all things MG.

Lastly back in the 70s I was 6'2" tall and therefore too big to be driving a TD around for more than an hour at a shot. As a result I replaced it with a Series 1 E type. Point being make sure you can fit in it and drive it comfortably. It is far simpler and easier to maintain than an XJS and mkes for a nice toy.

 

Thank you, all, for your advise/feedback. Much appreciated!

I must admit that I am very tempted. It is not something I was looking for, but if the stars align I think I would give it a shot.

In the end it will likely come down to price. I hope that the person who is considering selling it is reasonable. Will let you know what happens